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Topic: Need Help With High Torque Starter (Read 2641 times) previous topic - next topic

Need Help With High Torque Starter

Well I bought a new high torque starter, and I would like to put it in tomorrow, as the one in my car is ping out. Problem is, I don't know how to connect it, it's different.

I've attached pictures. What do I have to do? Is this hard?

olds


new

soleniod, because i'll probably have to change it, or something.

Can anyone tell me exactly what I have to do? Thanks.

Need Help With High Torque Starter

Reply #1
I just reamed out the ring terminal for the original starter(The one on the big wire) and slid it onto the new starter.
Make a short jumper wire from the solenoid post to the big post on the new starter so you don't have to screw with a lot of wiring.

That way I kept the original wiring setup, and gained a new style starter. I think there was a little bent tab on the wire headed to the starter as well, just bend it off carefully(Cut it if you have a good pair of puppiess.) Basically, make it look like a normal ring terminal.

I should also add that I didn't want to delete my solenoid because I have a bunch of wires running off it. Much like you.


  ....I'm pretty sure I told you all of this in the other post.
1983 Tbird with '03 Split Port V6 motor swap done! Headers, dual exhaust, 500CFM Edelbrock, 3G upgrade, Electric fan. 3.73 Gears and an FRPP Limited Slip. Five lug complete! 5-Speed conversion complete! Standalone Fuel Injection in progress...

Need Help With High Torque Starter

Reply #2
Quote from: jrad235;348666
I just reamed out the ring terminal for the original starter(The one on the big wire) and slid it onto the new starter.
Make a short jumper wire from the solenoid post to the big post on the new starter so you don't have to screw with a lot of wiring.

That way I kept the original wiring setup, and gained a new style starter. I think there was a little bent tab on the wire headed to the starter as well, just bend it off carefully(Cut it if you have a good pair of puppiess.) Basically, make it look like a normal ring terminal.

I should also add that I didn't want to delete my solenoid because I have a bunch of wires running off it. Much like you.


  ....I'm pretty sure I told you all of this in the other post.

 
I keep my solenoid because of all the wires as well.  I think it keeps the wires neater that way plus if you use a cover you dont see them anyway
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]


Need Help With High Torque Starter

Reply #3
on eric's site it describes this change:



basically this means that you should take all the wires on the left side of your solenoid and move them to the right side. and then you have to run a single wire, doesn't even have to be thick, I used 16ga wire, from the left side of the solenoid all the way to the new starter.

Here are the best pictures I could get for you. Ignore mine because I bypassed the solenoid and ran a push button start so I don't have the wire. It should come from the big stud there with no wire at all. Ignore the stud at the bottom...this is a replacement solenoid and it came with an extra useless stud.

also, you can kind of see where the big power cable is supposed to hook up to the starter.

I wrote this up a while back it'll probably help you out:

[thread]25816[/thread]
--Steve
[thread=28690]1988 Cougar V6[/thread]
2012 F-150 3.7L
2011 Mustang 3.7L

Need Help With High Torque Starter

Reply #4
nm, heres a better explanation... when I got my starter I did not have a nut on that one stud where the spade clip is so I had to splice a female spade clip on my wire. You can either wrap your wire around the stud and clamp it down with the nut, or get the proper sized o-ring connector and crimp it on and clamp it down with the nut. Or you can just go with a female spade connector like I did. Also the big ass stud there directly opposite the one with the wire already connected is the one where the existing battery cable goes. look at the picture I made it very easy lol:

i'm actually going to borrow this for my other thread hehheheh
--Steve
[thread=28690]1988 Cougar V6[/thread]
2012 F-150 3.7L
2011 Mustang 3.7L

Need Help With High Torque Starter

Reply #5
Love the arrows whish I could do that stuff. I just jumped the little wire to the big wire. It was an old starter and didn't care about it when i start the car the starter stays spinning for a second is this from me jumping it? it will die some day and dont want to do it to another one? :punchballs:

Thanks
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]:ford:87 Turbo Coupe through the floor sub frame connectors, 5.8 swap Ford racing heads Harland sharp 1.6 rockers BBK shorty swap headers 2 1/2 BBk X pipe magnaflow ler's. Megasquirt 2 with 36lbs injectors on hurricane intake with 4150 throttle body.Tremec TKO 600 Quicktime blowsheild spec stage 3 clutch. 3.73 gears and still not done

Need Help With High Torque Starter

Reply #6
I have that same issue. Of course, I bought a starter with 130k miles on it. I just figured the bendix was sticky though. Shoot, maybe it is because of the wiring. Just enough voltage left in the wire/windings to leave it engaged with no amperage draw... Hmm.
1983 Tbird with '03 Split Port V6 motor swap done! Headers, dual exhaust, 500CFM Edelbrock, 3G upgrade, Electric fan. 3.73 Gears and an FRPP Limited Slip. Five lug complete! 5-Speed conversion complete! Standalone Fuel Injection in progress...

Need Help With High Torque Starter

Reply #7
In your pic of the selenoid, take the big black wire and add it to the big red ones, right to left.the other end of the black wire will go to the big stud on the new starter. Then you can either run a new wire from that bare terminal where you took the big black wire off of the solenoid, to the small terminal on the new starter and your done.That would basicly be running 2 selenoids, that's how mine is wired. Or you can take the small wires off the selenoid and splice the new wire from the new starter to that wire, wich now you  will only run the 1 selenoid at the starter. I would run the small terminal wire at least a 10g wire. Don't use a push on spade terminal on the starter end,unbolt the nut and and use a ring terminal. less headaches with a bad connection. If you go with the 2 selenoid option I stress this use 10g wire there will be full battery juice running through it.
Old Grey Cat to this.88 Cat, 5.0 HO, CW mounts, mass air, CI custom cam, afr165's, Tmoss worked cobra intake, BBK shorty's,off road h pipe, magnaflow ex. T-5,spec stage 2 clutch, 8.8 373 TC trac loc, che ajustables with bullits on the rear. 11" brakes up front. +

Need Help With High Torque Starter

Reply #8
I actually have the wiring diagrams for mine somewhere. I'll scan it if I find it
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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Need Help With High Torque Starter

Reply #9
When I redid my wiring I ran hot power straight to a push button start switch in the dash and then to the solenoid on the starter. But that's prolly too custom for ya'lls taste. But its just too much fun for me not to have done:D
--Steve
[thread=28690]1988 Cougar V6[/thread]
2012 F-150 3.7L
2011 Mustang 3.7L

 

Need Help With High Torque Starter

Reply #10
I follew Kitz Kat's advise, only so that way the current "big-wire" will be the one having the power all the time, as it should be rated for it. The wire I ran is a 12 gauge wire which runs from the right side down the the solenoid down to the new plug on the stater. This way, that new thinner wire only has "juice" for the time the starter is cranking.

Thanks for the help and advise guys. I appreciate it. :)

Need Help With High Torque Starter

Reply #11
Hate to jump the thread I put a new high torque starter in my plow truck (96 F250 5.8 ) went well with only breaking one bolt in the tranny. The starter got stuck on had to pull the pos bat cable I'm lost I've changed the solenoid on the fender has anyone heard of a new starter with a bad solenoid or bendix? Its working now seems to any way keeping a 8 mm nut driver handy though
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]:ford:87 Turbo Coupe through the floor sub frame connectors, 5.8 swap Ford racing heads Harland sharp 1.6 rockers BBK shorty swap headers 2 1/2 BBk X pipe magnaflow ler's. Megasquirt 2 with 36lbs injectors on hurricane intake with 4150 throttle body.Tremec TKO 600 Quicktime blowsheild spec stage 3 clutch. 3.73 gears and still not done