Radiator Hoses and Clamps

Topic: Radiator Hoses and Clamps (Read 3472 times) previous topic - next topic

Radiator Hoses and Clamps

January 09, 2011, 09:57:10 PM

Being the original owner of a 1984, I've gone through a few hoses and clamps over the years. I've noticed over the last 5 years that the hose clamps tend to loosen up around 2500 miles. I currently have Dayco hoses and stainless steel worm drive screw clamps. I torque to 25-30 inch lbs.

IMHO something has changed. Either Dayco has changed the rubber, which is causing more expansion / contraction which loosens the clamps or the clamps are backing off for some reason. Clamps are tight against the pipe bubble (raised part).

Noticed some leakage yesterday. Pressure tested the system today (15 psi) and found leaks on the top hose near the thermostat and on the XOver pipe near the firewall. Retorqued and holding at 15 without any problem.

Anyone had any luck with:
1) different hoses
2) used screw compression clamps and/or spring clamps.

If so, like to know who's the manufacturer and source for both hoses and clamps.

Thanks
David

Radiator Hoses and Clamps

Reply #1 – January 09, 2011, 11:33:14 PM

I haven't had any issues at all with the Sport's hoses and clamps. I was using the Good Year hoses (the blue ones),and now the blue radiator hoses are gone. I have a chrome upper hose and black lower hose that I got at Autozone. No issues with it either.

Radiator Hoses and Clamps

Reply #2 – January 10, 2011, 01:04:36 AM

Go to a hose and rubber supply store. You can get any type of hose clamp you like. All of them are better then what you can get at a parts store.

Radiator Hoses and Clamps

Reply #3 – January 10, 2011, 08:43:14 AM

Thanks for feedback both.

Only thing I can come up with as this has been a problem for some time.
Haystack. Good suggestion. Hopefully can find one locally as don't know of one off hand.
Did track down two clamps on NET that design (IMHO) looks pretty good.

Gates "Green Stripe" Constant Tension Screw Clamp
"Norma" Constant Tension Spring Clamp (this is Australian and like it best, whether can get in US??)

Radiator Hoses and Clamps

Reply #4 – January 10, 2011, 04:02:42 PM

American hose and rubber is Tuscon.

http://maps.google.com/maps?rlz=1C1RNNN_en___US372&q=tucson+az&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hq=&hnear=Tucson,+AZ&gl=us&ei=jXMrTaqTNoiusAPmkczABg&sa=X&oi=geocode_result&ct=title&resnum=1&ved=0CBoQ8gEwAA

Radiator Hoses and Clamps

Reply #5 – January 10, 2011, 07:17:34 PM

Quote

American hose and rubber is Tuscon.

FWIW talked to them, don't carry. Also talked to our major auto supply house here (Oreilly, Auto Zone, Merrills, CarQuest, NAPA. Dons Hot Rod, several radiator shops). None carry, but NAPA says they can order.

Radiator Hoses and Clamps

Reply #6 – January 10, 2011, 08:17:30 PM

How about a constant tension clamp from Ford? I think they started using them in production Mustangs in the early 90's. Ask for a clamp for a '93 Mustang and see what they say. The factory constant tension clamps work very well.

Radiator Hoses and Clamps

Reply #7 – January 10, 2011, 08:55:40 PM

I have a very hard time believing you couldn't just walk into a hose and rubber place and find a hose clamp that may, or may not work better then what you already have. I would have just tightened the hose clamp and extra turn or so and left it at that. Eventually someone will pull something up where you will not have to go through too much effort on your part.

Radiator Hoses and Clamps

Reply #8 – January 10, 2011, 09:54:39 PM

Quote

I have a very hard time believing you couldn't just walk into a hose and rubber place and find a hose clamp that may, or may not work better then what you already have. I would have just tightened the hose clamp and extra turn or so and left it at that.

For whatever reason the worm drive clamps seem to loosen up. Periodically retighten. Figure if I can get the constant tension type I'll replace all of them and hope for the best.

Also seem to have to re-torque value cover bolts about every 3000 to stop little seepage around bolt heads.
Thinking i may try and get a little spring and sandwich it between a washer and bolt head and see if this
solves this issue too.

Radiator Hoses and Clamps

Reply #9 – January 11, 2011, 01:19:50 AM

I've never had to tighten a worm drive clamp. Does your car vibrate a lot

Radiator Hoses and Clamps

Reply #10 – January 11, 2011, 09:41:06 AM

Not really. When the engine was rebuilt, new mounts were also put in before install.

I personally am convinced at this point that the worm drive clamps are what has been causing my coolant lose for years. I have friend who has a similar problem except his show up just during the summer. What happens is you loose coolant a little at a the time and need to refill the overflow bottle just a little.
I believe the coolant that's leaking is evaporating on the engine block since no evidence of leakage on the ground.

Way I found it was pressure test the system. Everything appeared OK, but decided to leave the tester on overnight so I didn't spill any coolant by removing the tester. When I checked the next morning, I still had pressure (around 8 lbs) but noticed leakage at several of the hose connections. This was on a relatively cold engine (only run 8 miles previous day) and where the temp had dropped to the 30's overnight the night before and the night the tester was on.

I'm going back to the old spring style clamp ( either the wire type or the wide band type that Chrysler uses) where you need a pair of special pliers for removal and see what happens. Hopefully I can find them locally.

Radiator Hoses and Clamps

Reply #11 – January 11, 2011, 02:39:16 PM

Quote from: dw85745;349253

I'm going back to the old spring style clamp ( either the wire type or the wide band type that Chrysler uses) where you need a pair of special pliers for removal and see what happens. Hopefully I can find them locally.

I think you summed it up yourself

Go to a Dodge dealership, they should be able to hook you up fast.

Radiator Hoses and Clamps

Reply #12 – January 11, 2011, 10:37:00 PM

ThunderbirdSport302. Had talked to Dodge dealer, --- supposedly -- don't carry them.
Fastenal does, but only by order and quantity size unknown.
Talked with one of the spring clamp manufacturer engineers and says hard to come by unless OEM who buy in large quantities.

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Interesting Update. Not sure how to handle this one.

Tester stayed on over last night. Came out and noticed some coolant on the pan this morning.
As previously stated had a little hose leakage, but forgot to mention I noticed some coolant sitting on a metal outcropping about three inches below the Engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT) that goes in the manifold on top.

Dried up the coolant, double checked clamps and retorqued to 27 inch lbs (were at 25). Also wrapped both the thermostat housing around and below the gasket and the ECT with paper towel so I can see if it shows any evidence leakage.

Pumped tester back up (13-14 foot lbs) let it sit for about two hours checking hose connections and for any evidence of coolant anywhere on the block or underneath. No leaks. Tester (after 2 hours) still showing 13-14 lbs. Decided to leave tester on again overnight.

-- Fours hours have now passed-----.

Just checked a few minutes ago (this is four hours with the tester). Pressure is at about 10 psi.
No evidence of any hose leakage.

However did again notice a small pool (about the size of dime) of coolant, again sitting on the metal outcropping just below where the Engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT) goes in the manifold.
Removed paper towels around the thermostat housing and ECT. No evidence of leakager (yellow or wet). Also felt below the thermostat and ECT on the side all the way down until I was with about a 1/4 inch of the coolant puddle. Did not feel wet.

This is an odd place for a hairline crack (also can't see one).

Wondering if I may have also some porisity issues with either the manifold or the block.

If so, is there any solution for this?