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Topic: write up on belt-line trim (Read 2335 times) previous topic - next topic

write up on belt-line trim

I didnt find one in the disassemble how to. I have turbo coupe trim on my donor doors that needs removed for LX trim to be installed. Are these held on with double sided tape? I dont see any nuts holding it from inside the door, unless they are hiding behind the crash beam...
1988 T-Bird LX- Awaiting HO build, Monster "Eat My Shift" AOD rated 550Hp. BBK ceramic shorties, Jegs mustang (catless) H-Pipe. mustang catback modified axle back for tbird, 94 17" Cobra wheels, 98 'Stang GT 8.8 Traction-lock

write up on belt-line trim

Reply #1 –
Quote from: blain_gatterdam;344006
I didnt find one in the disassemble how to. I have turbo coupe trim on my donor doors that needs removed for LX trim to be installed. Are these held on with double sided tape? I dont see any nuts holding it from inside the door, unless they are hiding behind the crash beam...

 
I removed the door moldings from my 1984 and they were just held on by double sided tape, two strips running parallel down the entire door. I am sure any of the 87-88 owners like Vinnie who has removed the door moldings, and the fella who is restoring the Black Cougar who has not installed moldings on the door yet will know for sure.

write up on belt-line trim

Reply #2 –
I was counting on this but didnt want to destroy them in the process. I know the trim under the quarter windows are double sided tape, but behind the rear wheel and cornering trims have nuts through the metal.
1988 T-Bird LX- Awaiting HO build, Monster "Eat My Shift" AOD rated 550Hp. BBK ceramic shorties, Jegs mustang (catless) H-Pipe. mustang catback modified axle back for tbird, 94 17" Cobra wheels, 98 'Stang GT 8.8 Traction-lock

write up on belt-line trim

Reply #3 –
Body side mldg is double sided tape, if you arent carefull you will bend the mldg if you just yank and pull. Ive used piano wire to slice them off. What I call belt mldg, at the edge of the door where it meets the glass, is held on with some screws and clips.

write up on belt-line trim

Reply #4 –
so what kind of badass tape should i buy to put them back on?
1988 T-Bird LX- Awaiting HO build, Monster "Eat My Shift" AOD rated 550Hp. BBK ceramic shorties, Jegs mustang (catless) H-Pipe. mustang catback modified axle back for tbird, 94 17" Cobra wheels, 98 'Stang GT 8.8 Traction-lock

write up on belt-line trim

Reply #5 –
Quote from: blain_gatterdam;344018
so what kind of badass tape should i buy to put them back on?

 
I was wondering the same thing myself. I was going to look for some industrial strength 3M tape. I guess I'll wait and see what others have used.
2017 Subaru Outback
2007 Lincoln MKZ
1990 Ford F250 / Banks turbo diesel

write up on belt-line trim

Reply #6 –
3m double sided molding tape works great .  as Dansbirds said they moldings will bend up if you are not careful removing them

The have a metal reinforcement strip that runs the length of the molding , if you do end up bending them you can run a burnz-o-matic  torch over the metal piece and loosen the glue and take the metal off and  just put new tape on .
 I have done this  method a bunch of times on pieces that I got from the boneyard where I couldn't take thew necessary care in  removing them .
Fox-less at the moment

write up on belt-line trim

Reply #7 –
I've removed belt line trim from 87-88 T-birds and Cougars as spares (I have this thing about grabbing spare parts ;)) and because I was at the yard it gets bent up. All you really have to do to straighten it is remove the metal reinforcement piece from the back of the molding and it will lay flat again. The easiest way to do that is to put the molding in a vice (wrap it in a towel where it meets the vice to prevent damage to the molding), loosen up a corner of the metal reinforcement, and then grab it with a pair of vice grips and pull it off. That's the method I've used and it has worked great for me. When you're done just lay the molding in the sun and it will straighten out again. Then it can be easily secured to the car with 3M high strength molding tape.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

write up on belt-line trim

Reply #8 –
Not to hi-jack a thread but thanks for the tip on getting the metal strips off. I had the mldgs on my bench for the past month or so trying to decide what to do with them , so went out hit them quick with the torch and they peeled right off so I will be putting the mldgs back on the car in the spring, thanks again

write up on belt-line trim

Reply #9 –
Quote from: Dansbirds;344109
Not to hi-jack a thread but thanks for the tip on getting the metal strips off. I had the mldgs on my bench for the past month or so trying to decide what to do with them , so went out hit them quick with the torch and they peeled right off so I will be putting the mldgs back on the car in the spring, thanks again

Thats what we are here for :)
Fox-less at the moment
 

write up on belt-line trim

Reply #10 –
Yes, just yank the moulding off, and peel the metal strips off the back and use 5/8" or wider 3m double sided moulding tape to reinstall.
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***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
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5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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