AnyOne Got a Sludge Hammer!!!!!

Topic: AnyOne Got a Sludge Hammer!!!!! (Read 792 times) previous topic - next topic

AnyOne Got a Sludge Hammer!!!!!

November 14, 2009, 04:32:46 PM

About that point with my 84 Cougar, 3.8L.

About two years ago my car kept losing coolant (like Haystack) with no visible signs. Odd thing was I could fill up the coolant bottle, the coolant would disappear but the radiator never dropped -- stayed at full. Coolant bottle tested and no leak there either. Also periodically got a stalling condition while coming to a stop.

Having 160K on vehicle figured it would be a good time for a rebuild.
Paid big buck to a high end AERA rebuilder who pulled, reworked, and installed reworked engine. Rebuilder indicated both block and head were very rough. No way for me to verify, but indicated he milled block and heads to RA30 or less. After about 500 miles, drivers side head gasket was leaking from bottom. Took back to rebuilder and supposedly (??) put new MLS gaskets, new head bolts, plus also used Irontite (ceramic sealer). Sealer was obvious because it was on engine in some places and needed 80 grit sandpaper to remove.

So here I am 1000 miles later and same condition is occurring:
-- fill up the coolant bottle, the coolant disappears, but the radiator never drops, stays at full.
-- drivers side head gasket shows some external seapage from the bottom as well as coolant showing up around water pump. Whether from pump or timing cover not sure.
-- Stalled for 1st time since rebuild while coming to a stop.

SHOULD I JUNK THIS THING??????????

AnyOne Got a Sludge Hammer!!!!!

Reply #1 – November 14, 2009, 05:08:55 PM

Were the block & heads checked for cracks?

AnyOne Got a Sludge Hammer!!!!!

Reply #2 – November 14, 2009, 05:15:52 PM

Sounds like a warped head. Was the car ever overheated? Do a pressure test on the cooling system.
Might just be best to buy a running engine from a yard. Sounds like the engine is about past it. Any warranty?

BTW, whats a sludge hammer?

AnyOne Got a Sludge Hammer!!!!!

Reply #3 – November 14, 2009, 05:16:14 PM

Quote from: dw85745;298812

SHOULD I JUNK THIS THING??????????

What's the rest of the car like? If it's in clean, very little, or no rust, never wrecked and the like...and you have some attachment to it...then I'd suggest getting rid of the V6, and drop a 302 in it.

Of course, this is some work to do right, but for someone with mechanical aptitude and time, it's about as easy as eating a cheeseburger.

I'm not telling you that you SHOULD drop in a v8, just suggesting that if it's A: not your daily car, and B: not a clapped out wreck/rustbucket, then it may be a viable option against keeping the problematic 3.8.

One other thing...if the heads were very badly warped, no amount of machining will allow them to be reliable AND leak free, both.

AnyOne Got a Sludge Hammer!!!!!

Reply #4 – November 15, 2009, 12:21:43 AM

shop manual allows for .006 diagonal warpage.

if they were milled, that would take all the warp out. .030 is a a lot of metal gone making a new flat surface.

if the block wasnt decked or even checked, its pointless.

as for the motor, an 84 302 is a direct swap to your 3.8 wiring harness and eec.

do a compression test,, next presure test the coolant system **after you loop back or bypass the heater core.

AnyOne Got a Sludge Hammer!!!!!

Reply #5 – November 15, 2009, 01:13:46 AM

Quote from: jcassity;298894

as for the motor, an 84 302 is a direct swap to your 3.8 wiring harness and eec.

:eek:
Learn something new everyday.

AnyOne Got a Sludge Hammer!!!!!

Reply #6 – November 15, 2009, 08:25:47 AM

Thanks for input guys.

I'm original owner of vehicle. Been garaged most of time (work and home) in a dry climate (Texas and Arizona) except for 2 years when I was in DC. Body in great shape. I do all my own work except for engine rebuild as don't have the equipment to do right. Accordinging to AERA rebuilder block and heads both magnafluxed and no cracks. Any cooling pressure test I've done (both cold and slightly warm) yields no leak or pressure drop (holds 16psi for 1/2 hour). Didn't bypass the heater core, but did put slide to heat in vehicle but now I think of it ignition may need to be on to activate heater shutoff value.
Even did a block test about 3 weeks ago (just noticed seapage yesterday) and no gas leakage into coolant.

===== Question ===========
Re heads and deck. Anyone used the head supplier in Florida referenced here?
=======================

Talked to them a while back (before rebuild) and indicated NO new heads, but had some reworked ones. Figured mine would be the same as theirs after rework. May not based on my problem.

Good to know about an 84 302. Don't know if any available, never checked, and whether having another old engine reworked is worth the time/$$$$. Have to think about it. If not, anyone interested in an 84 with good body and a lot of new parts???