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Topic: So if I’m going to have to change the oil pan gasket…. (Read 2944 times) previous topic - next topic

So if I’m going to have to change the oil pan gasket….

I might as well drop in a different motor if I was planning on it eventually right?

The oil pan gasket job looks like the mother of all bitches, am I correct? :dunno:


Any temporary fixes to get me through the next month or so? Can I do any more damage by trying to tighten the pan up a little?

Re: So if I’m going to have to change the oil pan gasket….

Reply #1
Quote from: bq93
Can I do any more damage by trying to tighten the pan up a little?

you got this unique way of coming up with answers to your own questions :)  thats what id do if i had to wait.

but..

if the bolt feels tight as heck already,, its possible that they are bottomed out.

which ever way you go,, dont just add a new gasket,, tune the pan  up as well.  Common mistake **ALOT** of people make and only wished they knew before hand.


does anyone else think that leak looks more like water than oil or is it just me. :dunno:

Re: So if I’m going to have to change the oil pan gasket….

Reply #2
Oil pan gasket is real tough, but do-able with the engine in the car.  Don't screw with any quick fixes.  Some kinda sealent or gasket piece plugs up that oil pickup and it's all over.

Re: So if I’m going to have to change the oil pan gasket….

Reply #3
Thanks again guys.  I am going to try to "re-tuck" and tighten it just to get me to a point where I can afford to fix it.


How is it doable with the engine in the car?  I thought you had to pull everything?

Re: So if I’m going to have to change the oil pan gasket….

Reply #4
Never done it myself (too scared, and didn't need to).  But I know at least with a 5.0  you can jack up the engine, support it with something strong, and pull the pan off while the engine is up outta the way.  I guess there's enough clearance.  If I remember right, too, there are shop manuals that detail this procedure.

Re: So if I’m going to have to change the oil pan gasket….

Reply #5
1. Raise hood and cover fenders. Disconnect battery ground cable.

2. Remove oil level indicator from left side of rear oil sump.
 
3. Remove air cleaner tube.
 
4. Remove fan shroud retaining bolts and position shroud over fan.
 
5. Raise vehicle on hoist.
 
6. Drain crankcase and transmission.
 
7. Remove driveshaft assembly.
 
8. Disconnect speedometer cable from transmission.
 
9. Remove gearshift bell crank level from transmission.
 
10. Remove flywheel housing cover retaining bolts and remove cover.
 
11. Remove flywheel-to-converter attaching bolts.
 
12. Remove transmission control shaft.
 
13. Remove gear selector valve rod.
 
14. Remove starter motor retaining bolts and electrical connections and remove starter motor from vehicle.
 
15. Remove exhaust catalyst converter and ler inlet pipes.
 
16. Support transmission with suitable transmission jack and remove converter housing to cylinder block attacking bolts.
 
17. Remove engine mount-to-No. 2 cross member attaching bolts or nuts.
 
18. Remove No. 3 cross member and rear insulator support assemblies.
 
19. Remove neutral start switch electrical connection at transmission and disconnect transmission oil cooler lines.
 
20. Remove transmission and converter as an assembly.
 
21. Remove flywheel attacking bolts.
 
22. Remove engine rear cover plate.
 
23. Remove steering gear attaching bolts and position steering gear forward out of the way.
 
24. Raise and support engine in a position that allows for clearance of oil pan removal.
 
25. Remove oil pan attaching blots and lower oil pan to No. 2 cross member.
 
26. Remove oil pump and pickup tube attacking bolts. Allow oil pump and pickup tube assembly to drop into oil pan.
 
27. Remove oil pan from vehicle.
 
Heres what it says in the shop manual.

Re: So if I’m going to have to change the oil pan gasket….

Reply #6
Meh.  Don't take the tranny off.

Re: So if I’m going to have to change the oil pan gasket….

Reply #7
Thanks for typing all of that...but .

It would be a lot easier to jack up the radiator cap and drive a new car under it.

Re: So if I’m going to have to change the oil pan gasket….

Reply #8
Quote
It would be a lot easier to jack up the radiator cap and drive a new car under it.
  :rollin:  :rollin:  :rollin:  :rollin:  :rollin:  :rollin:  :rollin:

Re: So if I’m going to have to change the oil pan gasket….

Reply #9
1986tbird are you serious! on my 3.8 we took the bolts out of the motor mounts and trans mount (and anything thing eles that got in the way) and used a engine lift to pull the engine up. It was pretty difficult cuz it really didnt leave us with alot of room but it got done!


1987 cougar XR7 347 stroker FRP BOSS block 328rwhp 10.89 1/4mile @126mph ..so far..

2005 F150 5.4 vortec supercharged @15psi water methenol injected 450rwhp 14.0@98mph on 22's

Re: So if I’m going to have to change the oil pan gasket….

Reply #10
Thats what the ford shop manual says. :giggle:

Re: So if I’m going to have to change the oil pan gasket….

Reply #11
:giggle: Thats funny, you know today my Chiltons manual came in really handy,,  we used it between the jack and the gas tank to protect the gas tank and steady it while we took it down! :rollin:


1987 cougar XR7 347 stroker FRP BOSS block 328rwhp 10.89 1/4mile @126mph ..so far..

2005 F150 5.4 vortec supercharged @15psi water methenol injected 450rwhp 14.0@98mph on 22's

 

Re: So if I’m going to have to change the oil pan gasket….

Reply #12
^
^
^
That aint workin

thats the way you do it>>>>>>>>>>
Quote from: TrickFlow347
1986tbird are you serious! on my 3.8 we took the bolts out of the motor mounts and trans mount (and anything thing eles that got in the way) and used a engine lift to pull the engine up. It was pretty difficult cuz it really didnt leave us with alot of room but it got done!