power steering pump.

Topic: power steering pump. (Read 1088 times) previous topic - next topic

power steering pump.

January 21, 2009, 06:40:28 PM

Well the pump I decided not to replace went out last night. Started to car up, and it died while making belt noises. Pulled the belt off and drove home. I'll let you guys know how it goes.

power steering pump.

Reply #1 – January 21, 2009, 06:44:53 PM

That's a fairly easy fix.Once you get it all fixed up,hopefully it'll quit nickel and diming you to death.......or not.I'm really close to having the Sport in uber top shape.

power steering pump.

Reply #2 – January 22, 2009, 12:13:26 AM

Actually, it was the smog pump. About 4 hours later I ended up with a short belt. I'd guess the 5.0 without ac is about 2 inches too long. With under drive pullies ill bet its perfect.

power steering pump.

Reply #3 – January 22, 2009, 02:07:36 AM

that smog pump gets fickle after years of use. Took me a while to figure out my idle problem only after warm up was actually some sort of bushing in the smog binding the pump which then made my old 3.8 idle odd. Everything was perfect when the motor was bone cold.

I removed the pully and the plastic fan on the smog and was able to short belt the motor. The belt barely cleared the face of the smog but did work perfect.

In the end, I had to adjust the idle back down.

power steering pump.

Reply #4 – January 22, 2009, 11:16:08 PM

I left everything on. I didn't get to work on the car till 7 pm, and I had work at 8:30pm. No one cared I didn't show up till 10:30.

power steering pump.

Reply #5 – January 23, 2009, 10:55:21 AM

the smog pump on my 3.8 is quite noisy too.... do you remember what length the new belt was?

power steering pump.

Reply #6 – January 23, 2009, 07:28:07 PM

I'm not sure of the length, but I can get you a autozone part number. Value craft or something. I think the 3.8's are different length.

power steering pump.

Reply #7 – January 24, 2009, 12:35:25 AM

Quote from: mywifeskitty;253142

the smog pump on my 3.8 is quite noisy too.... do you remember what length the new belt was?

per my diy linky:D

smog pump delete and some other goodies
ok here goes

If your interested in keeping the emissions ****LOOK**** for inspection purposes then do this.
-Loosen smog pump bolts (three 10mm bolts)
-remove old belt
-remove by hand the three bolts you loosened up on smog pump pully
-pry off by hand the plasic fan you find behind the smog pump pully
-purchase a 77 1/2'' belt
-install new belt.
-you will notice this new belt barely misseshiznitting the face of you smog pump
-start engine and you *might* hear the belts edge rub the face of the pump but this will only be for a minor moment in time.
done.
now you dont have to touch anything else anywhere other than the smog system. It still looks stock and passes the visual check for the emissions folks,,if they dont notice the belt drive system. the smog pump is kind of burried anyway so i dont think it would be noticed unless someone was looking for it.
this is by far the easiest way if know to take the smog pump out of the picture.

If your interested in removing all emission , do this.
locate the black pvc vac line
disconnect it and plug/spare back at the smog pump
locate its far end behind the coolant fill tank and only unhook the solenoid switch for it.

locate the tan pvc vac line
disconnect it and plug/spare back at the smog pump
locate its far end behind the coolant fill tank and only unhook the solenoid switch for it.

locate the green pvc vac line
locate it at the egr and plug / spare it back
unplug the elec conn as well
locate its far end behind the coolant fill tank and only unhook the solenoid switch for it.

locate the org pvc vac line.
locate it at the pre-heat valve on the driver side intake and plug/spare it back.
locate its far end behind the coolant fill tank and only unhook the solenoid switch for it.

locate the red pvc vac line
locate it at the hex shaped distribution hook up on rear center of intake and plug/spare it back. tinker around till you end up not needing this connection any longer. this will aid in removing the hoses to the lid as well as the "t" is not needed anymore.
locate this red line along the driver strut tower and there will be a red three way fitting. disonnect it somewhere along there and plug/spare it back. This red line gets its vac from the intake and triggers the solenoid bank black,tan,green,org for emissions operation.

locate the HEX shaped vac distribution hook up on rear center of intake.
again, tinker around in this area till your **RED** line is no longer feeding a vac signal to the solenoid bank behind the coolant fill tank.

locate the vac lines that go to the air cleaner lid.
again, delete these, you can appreciate this more and more in the future.
locate the one way valve on the rear of intake pointing to pass side and the associated plumbing going to diverter valve
remove the associated plumbing hooked to this one way valve on the intake and smog pump end. this will leave you with a one way valve that will be noisy when you start up. If you want, install a bolt in place of the valve. I decided to run a heater hose from this valve directly along the pass side of the car. I allow the other end of this hose to pass thru a convienient hole found in on the rear pass side of the strut tower. this is the exit spot for this one way valve to vent out into the world. I decided not to plug it off with a bolt because there is something very tricky about these 87 and down intakes that i dont quite understand yet. So for the sake of causing a possible clogging up of the pan on the underside of the intake,, i decided to leave atleast one area open for that once in a while burp the intake may need.

locate the pipe that goes to the exhaust as well as associated plumbing that goes to the smog pump.
remove the plumbing at both ends for this hose / pipe run.
crimp off the exhaust with vise grips and bend it over. Better yet,, you have a chance to do what i wished i had done *************if you listen up. ......... run a section of heater hose from the one way valve on the rear of the intake to the metal pipe that is already installed on your exhaust. You can pull this pipe out of your exhaust and eyeball it for a while till you figure out a way to rebend it so it takes the curve you need and it finally mates up to the heater hose. This will allow your intake to vent out thru your exhaust system.,, gezz i wish i had thought of this when i was doing my smog delete.

locate all the solenoids behind the coolant fill tank.
unhook all the electrical solenoids, they no longer perform any emissions fuctions so save some money on your electic bill

Next up would be the removeal of the CFI and cleaning out the carbon buildup that fuggers up your power but thats a different subject. if you feel froggy, go for it and you will find what im talking about directly up under the cfi where carbon builds up. Tinker around with the vac line that goes from the rear of the cfi(gold fitting) which lands over at you pvc valve. unhook the vac from here all together. You will need to move directly to this next step. Locate the Main vac line that comes from your plastic distribution section (driver side firewall) an runs to the "HEX" shaped diagonally installed thing a ma jig on the rear center of the intake i previouslyspoke of.
Cut off about 2 1/2 inches of it at the intake end. Install a "T" right at the intake side. This will leave you with a third end free for use. Now hack/slice and dice around with the metal line that goes from the pvc valve. The other end is no longer hooked up to the cfi so cut the end off,,transition it to a rubber hose and hook it up to the third and final location on your newly installed "T" fitting.
************PLUG OFF THE REAR OF THE CFI (GOLD FITTING).

remove your belt
remove your smog pump
**********RE_INSTALL the long pivit bolt because it acts as a pivit for the smog but also is a support member for the bracket assy that holds your alternator. call my bluff on this if you want but i now have a broken bracket because i did not install it. This bolt should be the color blue for some odd reason. i think it passes thru the water jacket but i cant actually remember what the heck im talking about on this but anyways,,,, install it back or be sorry later.

purchase a ****77 1/2 inch belt from advance for about 35 bux.

done.
if i missed something, im sure you'll figure it out.

let us know if you **CAN*** pull codes now but **can not after you unhook all this . just curious

continue on and you will also want to get rid of the metal pipe for your heater core that runs along the intake. Simply undo all that . run a heater hose from the far left passanger side of your heater core and hook it up directly to the water pump left pass side fitting. run a second hose from the heater core driver side fitting and run it directly to the coolant sending unit fitting. Its that freaking simple to get rid of the metal heater pipes!!!

BEWARE OF THE FOLLOWING
now that you have done all this , some strange objects will appear on the passanger side of your car. dont call 911 or anything like that cause these mysterious objects happen to be your spark plugs you can new see without any strain.

enjoy.