is there any interest in

Reply #15 – January 10, 2009, 09:00:24 PM

Illegal fish = over quota or out of season or without license. I don't mean angling, I mean commercial fisheries (I live on the Atlantic ocean, where fishing, and illegal fishing, is big business).

Back on topic about these headlight harnesses you're making, a few suggestions:

1) A wise addition would be an optional fog light circuit. The factory fog light circuit in Turbo cars draws its power through the headlight switch and causes the switches to malfunction (the headlights will start flashing as the circuit breaker in the headlight switch overheats). A harness that eliminated this would be a good idea.

2) Offer a harness for 87-88 aero-eye cars (9004 bulbs). As mentioned above the headlight switches in these cars are pr0ne to failure because they carry the headlight current. With relay operated headlights you'd have more light (less voltage drop) and the headlight switch would last forever.

3) Offer a "4-on-high" option that keeps the low beams on when the high beams are on. Illegal (as in not DOT approved), yes, and probably unneccesary (because by the time something appears in the area lighted by your low beams you'd already have seen it with your high beams, and it'd be too late to avoid it anyway), but this is a very popular request for me.

I'm not interested in a harness myself, because as you can imagine I've already redone my harness, but I just thought I'd make the suggestions.

is there any interest in

Reply #16 – January 10, 2009, 09:21:27 PM

Wow,the old Knight Rider Trans Am doesn't have anything on that car.LOL.

is there any interest in

Reply #17 – January 10, 2009, 09:46:37 PM

thunder, the fogs is a good idea, as easy as adding an additional wire and relay to the harness.

i do have mk7's here i could use for mockup of aero harness's......

for the 4-on-high thing, arent the fox's like the panthers? outers are low/high, inners are high only? i wouldnt know..i have a 4eyes...i've not been able to drive it the entire time i've owned it lol.

is there any interest in

Reply #18 – January 10, 2009, 11:09:39 PM

Yes, on the four-eyes the inners are high only. I'm talking about lighting both elements in the outers, plus the inners. Or, in 87-88s, both elements in the 9004 bulbs.

is there any interest in

Reply #19 – January 10, 2009, 11:13:53 PM

i've heard of heat issues in doing that, not necessarily for fox's, but in general

is there any interest in

Reply #20 – January 11, 2009, 08:58:19 AM

So have I, which is why I don't offer a kit to do it (well, one of the reasons - the other main reason being that, as I said, I feel it's a useless modification), but you'd be surprised at how often I'm asked if I do. Since four-eyes have glass housings it may not be an issue with them, though...

is there any interest in

Reply #21 – January 13, 2009, 08:02:02 PM

ok folks, its done.

custom fit, hard connections, ready to rock.

the only thing not in the picture are the two signal wires for the headlights as that will depend on where each person wants theirs, i.e. plug into a headlight plug, run all the way to the firewall, custom lightswitch, etc.

total price for a harness, with price of materials is 100 bucks. thats cheaping myself on labor. but its also not gonna fail on you like "universal" replacement harnesses. gadget73 on gmn bought a universal for his mk7 and already had to replace relays that melted in a month.

only thing you gotta do upon recieving the harness is attach to it a power source, screw the grounds down in the factory spots on the fenders (clean the metal first, of course. no point in upgrading if you still have a py ground), and plug/splice the signal in.

i tried to keep this as low cost as possible, including going uber cheap on the labor. lemme know if you are interested.

here's the pics. first pic non related since this forum likes to not show my first pic :D

is there any interest in

Reply #22 – January 13, 2009, 11:57:49 PM

, I misunderstood your first post. I was under the impression that you had a line on conversion headlamps for the fox bodies, as well as the beefed up harness.

is there any interest in

Reply #23 – January 14, 2009, 01:23:16 AM

lol, i could prolly arrange for sets of those hella's to ship to those want them.

my buddy paid something like 120 a set i think, set being 2 outers and 2 inners. bought 2 sets.

but no, i'm just doing the harnesses.

is there any interest in

Reply #24 – January 15, 2009, 02:11:12 AM

As a result of "POST 16" I think im about to hijack a thead,,,,,,,sorry in advance.

anyway, inline with this topic i see on page 77 and 89 of the 87 evtm a layout of the main light switch.

before going further, in everyones opinion, What feature of the "off/park/head" portion of this switch produces the most heat?

The heat sync on the side of the switch suggests to me that the dimmmer is a huge heat generating device(instrument cluster illumination control).

With that being said, i move on to page 102 and see the power source for the dimmer has no choice but to travel through the main light switch for dimmer purposes.

The reason I point all this out is because i am interested in relieving the main light switch from excess watts via relays.

One headlamp relay (page 77) which when the switch (red/yellow) is turned on would power the grounded relay coil. The relay fused alternate battery input contact would send power out via the existing harness red/yellow. This feature now only feels the watts of powering a relay.

One park lamp relay (page 89) which when selected (brown) would provide power to the grounded relay coil. The relay fused alternate battery input contact would send power out via the existing harness brown wire. This feature now only feels the watts of powering a relay.

For the interior lamps (page 106), I am stumped but the above does help the life span of the oem main light switch. The thumbwheel has to be in series with power delivery to the instrument cluster so the addition of a relay is just pointless. The thumbwheel is required unless the "dim" option were deleted. If dim were deleted then one could use the power on the LB/R (instrumentation illumination)wire to power a grounded relay coil. The relay fused alternate battery input contact would send power out via the existing harness LB/R wire.

any thoughts?
How would we protect the oem main light switch by reducing watts and still maintain the thumbwheel operaton for dimmer?

perhaps i need to do three clamp on amp readings at the alternator....
pull fuse 13
start car --measure current
select park lamps--measure current
insert fuse 13-- set dimmer to max illumination --measure current

shuffle the numbers and identify who is drawing how much. I know the illumination is only 5A while the others are larger.

is there any interest in

Reply #25 – January 15, 2009, 04:11:56 AM

quick and easy way to reduce the watts for the dash lights is to replace with leds.

i do believe i posted elsewhere a link to my buddy's writeup on gmn, about the different led lights and which ones to buy. i will add that the good ones are really freakin cheap to buy these days, so its no longer a matter of cost anymore.