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Topic: Remote Start, Lock, Alarm Help (Read 2964 times) previous topic - next topic

Remote Start, Lock, Alarm Help

Hi all

I have a '86 Cougar that I have been restoring and all is in excellent working order. That being said, I want to install an after market remote setup. I have a Goirdan rig I got on eBay and have all the wiring diagrams but I'm a little tentative on the install. I was wondering if anyone has installed one of these systems and had any tips for me. I have PLENTY of experience building and restoring cars but this one has me a little spooked. Any constructive thoughts or if you could point me in the right direction would be appreciated.

Remote Start, Lock, Alarm Help

Reply #1 –
Kinda vague, so it's hard to answer.  Is there a particular circuit you're concerned with?

BTW, welcome to the forum!!
1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
'89 5.0 w/ ported intakes, Mallory Adjustable FPR, BBK shorties and H with 2.5" Flows, 130 amp 3G, 89 Mustang comp/wiring, Aluminum radiator w/ elec fan, T5 trans, King Cobra clutch, 3.55 gears, 13" Cobra brakes (front), Wilwood prop valve, Mustang A-arms, Front Coil-overs, MM CC plates, Silver 17x9 R's, 03 Cobra IRS, Aluminum DS, 2002 Mustang dash/console etc..., custom leather seats

Remote Start, Lock, Alarm Help

Reply #2 –
go to electrical tech,,,,,,,,,click on the 87evtm i posted.
Use those wiring idagrams to identify the circuits / functions required on your remote system.

There are several people here who have done remote systems,, I think the last person i remember doing something like this was CougarSE,,i think,,,,

anyway,, someone will chime in.

Remote Start, Lock, Alarm Help

Reply #3 –
Thanks for the replies. I think I'm making this more complicated than it should be. I just hate to see all my progress go up in flames. I have all the wiring schematics from Chiltons but all of the instructions for installation just seemed too easy. I hate extra parts.

Remote Start, Lock, Alarm Help

Reply #4 –
I've got a remote start/keyless entry system/alarm in my T-Bird. Installation is not rocket science, but there are a few things to keep in mind:

Depending on your remote starter you may need a pair of relays to switch polarity of the door locks (one relay for lock, one for unlock). You may also need a relay for the trunk release.

These cars have high-current ignition switches. When in "RUN" all of the current for the heater fan and many other high-current-draw systems run directly through the ignition switch. This is largely why Ford vehicles are very pr0ne to ignition switch failure and fires (I had several switches burn out and one car caught fire). Ford actually had a recall for the problem, but the recall only replaces the switch, not the circuitry that causes the failure to begin with.

This is a partial diagram of the ignition switch wiring, showing the one circuit that carries a bunch of current:


As you can see, the heater fan circuit alone is fused at 30 amps. You can add another 45 amps to that for the other two fuses on the circuit, plus some more for the O2 heaters and voltage regulator.

This high current may prove to be too much current for your remote starter's outputs, which are usually 30 amp max. In my car, for example, if I had the blower fan on anything higher than LO the fuse would blow after running a few minutes. I temporarily fixed this problem by installing a 30-amp self-resetting circuit breaker in place of the fuse. That didn't cure the problem, but it made it so I didn't have to keep  removing the lower dash panel to replace the fuse.

When I had the dash out I ended up rewiring the entire ignition switch circuit for a final cure - now my ignition switch and remote starter only carry the current of some relay coils. Here's how my car is wired now. I added an auxiliary fuse panel and some relays to route the high current away from the ignition switch and remote starter:
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

Remote Start, Lock, Alarm Help

Reply #5 –
Thats awesome Thunder Chicken.

Yea, I kinda figured I was making too much of it. I did tinker with the lock system last night and figured out the wiring for that. It took a bit if trial and error to make sure the buttons and the keypad still worked but I got it...I think. My setup has a separate line for the trunk but I haven't tried it yet.

I like your setup for the updated circuits. I might as well update while I'm rootin' around in there. I just did a whole shload of rootin' when I did heater core. That seemed pretty daunting at first but I prevailed...fun-fun-fun.

Remote Start, Lock, Alarm Help

Reply #6 –
You may want to check out this website

the12volt.com

It'll give you some ideas for cool things to add like one touch window down, keep alive circuit (keep radio on till you open the door), have the power windows roll up when you arm the alarm, there are some really great ideas there + some awesome electrical advise for those newer to "electrons". Good luck

Remote Start, Lock, Alarm Help

Reply #7 –
Thanks Privateer

 I ran across that site when I was researching. I'll definitely delve deeper into the primordial ooze that is electrons. Beats a sharp stick in the eye.

Remote Start, Lock, Alarm Help

Reply #8 –
Say, while I have some ears (eyes)...just yell at me if I should start another thread...Yesterday my power antenna started to go up very sluggishly. I popped the wheel well and tested the antenna with direct power and it worked fine. When I use the dash switch it goes down fine but barely goes up. I looked at the switch and the only thing I see that could be at fault are the little flat diode looking gizmos. Trying to find a factory replacement dash rocker switch is proving a little more problematic than I thought and I'm not even sure thats the problem yet. I have to get a meter on the thing. Any thoughts?

Remote Start, Lock, Alarm Help

Reply #9 –
I'd do a search on the forum and see if you can find any info. You may try lubing the antenna mast and running it up and down a few times, then wipe off the excess. I doubt it's the switch. You could run a current draw test on it to see if the motor is drawing excess current, or if the contacts are just going bad.

Thunder Chicken :bowdown:  awesome idea for the remote start. I've got a 2 way paging system sitting in the toolbox I was going to throw in, but now I'll give it some more thought about using your idea.

Remote Start, Lock, Alarm Help

Reply #10 –
Seeing as it only goes up slow with the dash switch I'd bet on the switch.  Seems like its not getting enough power (kinda like our windows and blinkers, pre-3G).  IMHO, the switch is stupid anyway...  I'd wire it up to the radio like you would an amp; so it goes up when the radio is turned on, down when the radio is turned off.
1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
'89 5.0 w/ ported intakes, Mallory Adjustable FPR, BBK shorties and H with 2.5" Flows, 130 amp 3G, 89 Mustang comp/wiring, Aluminum radiator w/ elec fan, T5 trans, King Cobra clutch, 3.55 gears, 13" Cobra brakes (front), Wilwood prop valve, Mustang A-arms, Front Coil-overs, MM CC plates, Silver 17x9 R's, 03 Cobra IRS, Aluminum DS, 2002 Mustang dash/console etc..., custom leather seats
 

Remote Start, Lock, Alarm Help

Reply #11 –
Thanks guys

I put a meter on it this weekend and as it turns out, it is the switch. I did the lube for extra measure but to no avail. I do like the idea of the switch for my own situation though. I'll try to replace the diodes.