Flex Additive

Topic: Flex Additive (Read 1654 times) previous topic - next topic

Flex Additive

May 06, 2008, 11:33:24 AM

Ok guys I know you need to add flex additive to whatever paint/primer you spray on your bumpers, but what I'd like to know is if there is any harm in spraying the whole car with flex additive added to your paint?

That just seems like the way to do it otherwise you'd be shooting the car in pieces as opposed to all at once. If I do have to spray the bumpers separately than so be it, I'm not opposed to doing it that way if that's how it should be done.

Thanks,

Tony

Flex Additive

Reply #1 – May 06, 2008, 02:02:23 PM

Its recommended to use it on the whole car because the finish will spray and cure different from the rest of the car if just used on the bumpers.
In other words, you'll see a difference from the rest of the finish compared to the bumpers.

Flex Additive

Reply #2 – May 06, 2008, 02:05:09 PM

costs a lot more , dries slower, has a little more shine
it seems. ppg says the flex add is only good for 10
days or so. if you are spraying the bumpers on the car you dont even need to use it according to ppg. i assume you are base
clearcoating. ask the people who you buy your paint from.

Flex Additive

Reply #3 – May 06, 2008, 03:25:36 PM

Thanks that's what I figured, but I just wanted to be sure. As far as what I'm using I'm currently debating on a quick coat of John Deere Blitz Black. I'm really sick of the pealing clear coat and my yellow bumper. The flat black allows me to get by with a minimum of body work because then it's a "rat rod". Now I guess I need to find out what sort of flex additive is compatible with Blitz Black.

Eventually I'd like to paint the car back to its factory gray metallic and for those of you saying, "just do it right the first time" I've already considered that and at this point in time I don't feel like having the car sitting in the garage for another 2 months (3 if you factor in the time to rebuilt the transmission and rebuild the engine). I'll probably end up starting the real body work this winter then paint it next spring.

Thanks,

Tony

Flex Additive

Reply #4 – May 06, 2008, 04:16:38 PM

I'm about the repaint my bumper for the 2nd time since every time I lean on it the ed paint cracks and then come off in sheets. I think I should kick the guys ass this time - he tells me I don't need the flex shiznit - what do you think?

Flex Additive

Reply #5 – May 06, 2008, 04:18:28 PM

Quote from: irv;217498

costs a lot more , dries slower, has a little more shine
it seems. ppg says the flex add is only good for 10
days or so. if you are spraying the bumpers on the car you dont even need to use it according to ppg. i assume you are base
clearcoating. ask the people who you buy your paint from.

Um WRONG!! if you dont use it on the plastic or rubber parts, like the bumpers, if you push on it, you can and will crack the paint and get spiderwebs though the paint.

When I painted the bird the with the final coat I used it in the whole car turned out nice, and the flex ad, helps prevent stone chips too.

Flex Additive

Reply #6 – May 06, 2008, 04:29:51 PM

use it. or you'll have problems with the bumpers. trust me

Flex Additive

Reply #7 – May 06, 2008, 09:13:14 PM

Quote

I'm about the repaint my bumper for the 2nd time since every time I lean on it the ed paint cracks and then come off in sheets. I think I should kick the guys ass this time - he tells me I don't need the flex shiznit - what do you think?

This is why my car is sporting a banana yellow bumper currently. So yeah your guy is full of shiznit, I'd be pretty upset if I was in your shoes.

Flex Additive

Reply #8 – May 06, 2008, 10:00:48 PM

use it. Usually about a cap full per gun cup.

Flex Additive

Reply #9 – May 06, 2008, 10:05:41 PM

yellow, LOL
reminds me of the last time I repainted my cougar.
It was my wife's DD.
I looked at it a couple months later in the garage, and noticed the black was coming off the back bumper in 2 strips. I asked her where the paint was going, and she replied that she didn't know. The only place he took it was the store and the car wash every week.
Bingo problem solved.
Just thought I'd share that story. I thought it was funny.
But the white paint stayed on, is what I was getting at, in a long about way

Flex Additive

Reply #10 – May 06, 2008, 10:08:05 PM

one other thing.
was the car ever painted using fish eye remover?
If so you have to keep using it unless you strip the car. It also causes problems

Flex Additive

Reply #11 – May 08, 2008, 01:33:12 AM

I only used the flex in the paint that went on the rubber/plastic parts and you can't tell the difference. I am not sure what kind of difference you would notice after the clear?? Unless someone says it changes the colors. Also in case you don't know make sure if spraying metallic paint that if the bumper-door-fender or whatever is not on the car to place it in the same position as it will be bolted on the car when you spray it. So don't prop a hood against the wall and spray it because the metallic will lay different and the colors on the fender and hood won;t match when the hood is down. Also I practiced and tested using ppg epoxy self etching primer on the whole car incl. plastic and the paint etc. adheres to it so well you can't get it off by bending/hitting or whatever. Pretty much only a DA sander to get back to the yellow. Bonus for you is the epoxy primer I used was flat black I thought the car looked awesome when all done in it.

Flex Additive

Reply #12 – May 08, 2008, 06:29:13 AM

Hey GrannysBird,
what type of paint were you thinking of using? Base/clear?
or an enamel based paint?

If the paint peels and chips down to the yellow rubber, then the problem was the primer not flexing. if the primer stays on then its the paint not flexing in a bumper situation

the ideal way would be to flex the primer on the bumpers only, when and if you prime the car. Some guys don't prime the entire car, only the areas that require body work.
If your going over the painted bumper, the paint sticking or peeling is in Gods hands, because you just don't know what the old paint will do.
Old base/clear thats peeling is a problem all by it's self. It must be removed first, or again you'll have problems because the clear was breaking down.
If you flex clear coat and want to cut and buff it, they say it won't shine as good as a non flexed paint job. and sometimes it yellows the clear after a few years. (depends on product)
As you can see there's a lot of variables to weigh depending on the condition of the old paint, the type of primer used and the paint product used as a final finish, not all cars can go the same route to get the same end look.

They also say that bc/cc has a 10-12 year life span and breaks down after that. thats where a lot of the peeling on roofs and hoods can be seen on our cars, plus the paint technology was younger then.

So most of you guys that have paint peeling off the bumper in sheets like this (in the bottom corner)

there is no flex in the primer, and it peeled away from the bumper, it wasn't the paints fault. the paint usually still looks good sitting on the driveway with the primer attached to it.
this car was also repainted at one tome

I flexed my primer and paint on my car when I did it. I can push, bend and twist my bumper with no paint cracking.

What ever way you go. talk to the paint manufacturer about the paint, what's going under it, and what it's all covering. If it's done to there specs there shouldn't be a problem anywhere, and it won't void a product warranty because of peeling or chemical reaction. Don't just go on the painters word. most are just painters.

Flex Additive

Reply #13 – May 08, 2008, 07:11:37 AM

Neither the primer nor the clear I used needed flex add. only the paint. That was done in 1997 and it looks brand new actually when waxed some ask if it was freshly painted. Do what Daminc says and ask lots of questions for your products you choose.

Flex Additive

Reply #14 – May 08, 2008, 07:39:29 AM

Also, if your bumper is down to the bare rubber or plastic, you need to use an adhesion promoter to help the primer stick good. that could also be a problem with repaints of bumpers mentioned in another earlier post. also, epoxy primer has great flex to it. and top line paints will hold up better then lower ones. But I know everyone wants to save a couple bucks, so get what you can afford and work with what you have. If its a solid color, I would recommend an acrylic urethane to bring out the depth of the paint. and the wet look additive. looks killer. I used it 15 years ago and it still looks wet.