TC door panel rebuild

Topic: TC door panel rebuild (Read 858 times) previous topic - next topic

TC door panel rebuild

April 16, 2008, 01:43:41 AM

The 85-88 TC door panels are nice looking but don't hold up well to repeated dis/re-assembly, especially at the hands of reckless window glass repairmen trying to get finished quickly.

Mine were in such bad shape from the abuse that I even had the fiberboard replaced, not a cheap proposition. For this project I started with new-to-me arm rests and map pockets. I had the armrest pads repaired by the same place that cut and installed the new fiberboards.

My goal with this project was to improve the factory design in terms of strength, utility, assembly, and use.

Tools
X-acto knife w/ #11 blade
box cutter
drill w/ 1/8" bit
Dremel tool w/ cutting wheel
pliers
tweezers
phillips head screwdriver
torx driver
wire cutter
tin snips
needle nose vise grip
sharp-tipped marker
heavy gloves
safety glasses
cleaning equipment

Supplies
#8 x 1" screws (cheap in lg quantities)
#8 speed nuts (2/door)
#8 torx screws (1/door)
plumbers tape
epoxy
duct tape (of course!)
color-matched paint
cleaners
optional
sheet metal
velcro mounting tabs

Modified Lighting (optional):
wire
solderless connectors
#10 LEDs
120 Ohm 1/4W resistors
wire stripper/crimper

Disclaimer: be careful, use safety equipment, ask me any questions, speak up if you figure out a better way to do something, don't complain if you hurt yourself, remember me in you will if this info worked for you.

How To Steps:
1) prep the components as necessary. Prior to assembly, I had the original pieces color-matched with dye and paint, then had the replacment pieces dyed. You can apply paint without prep, but you'll get better results using a prepping solution prior to color application.

2) lay out all

Door Panels, con't

Reply #1 – April 16, 2008, 02:07:41 AM

4) With the arm rest and map pocket positioned on the panel as they would be installed, mark the spots where you will cut through the panel to thread the straps. The red points mark where I cut. The cutting wheel is useful here. Also, if you decide to mount high forward point of the armrest where I did, you will need something to cut through the metal at that point. I used a jig saw.
When marking the cut points, you want to be as close to the edge of the armrest as possible, using precision here will reward you later with a better fit.

5) Use the tin snips to cut ~8 x 2"-3" strips of plumbers tape, and two strips 3"-4" long. If you only have long #8 screws, use the cutting wheel to cut them very short. They only need to be long enough to secure the plumbers tape onto the plastic of the armrest
6) Now is a good time to verify you're happy with the positions you've marked on the door panel. mark drill points on the armrest ~1/4"-1/2" from the edge. make sure the plastic is in good shape here, no cracks etc. If necessary, you can use fiberglass to reinforce the armrest.
7) Drill holes in the armrest and map pocket. A note here. First, go back and read the disclaimer. Now that you've read the disclaimer, I discovered that it isn't necessary to drill completely through the armrest or map pocket to properly mount the tabs. They are both hard plastic covered in a vinyl skin. If you put your finger opposite the drill, slowly and carefully drill through the plastic, you can feel when to stop so as not to damage the vinyl.

After the holes are drilled, mount the strips of plumbers tape using the short screws.

9) Paint the inside of the map pocket as necessary to blend the new mounting tabs.
10) Verify your marks on the door panel by placing the armrest and map pocket in their mounted positions, then cut slots in the door panel.

Door panels, con't

Reply #2 – April 16, 2008, 02:27:42 AM

11) Assemble the armrest. Install and wire any lighting and mount the door light/reflector assembly. I used a torx screw for this. Use one of the long strips of plumbers tape with a speed nut on the end to secure the reflector assembly.
12) At this point, you should be ready to assemble everything.

13) The hardest part, threading the straps through the slots in the door panel. Take your time, use gloves, pliers (to pull), the hobby knife and box cutter (to help guide), and screwdriver (to push), to get the straps threaded.
14) After getting all the straps for the armrest threaded but with some play left, insert the other long strap with a speed nut on the end where the back of the map pocket screws into the armrest. Then mount the map pocket like you did the armrest. Be careful to properly thread the screw through the map pocket, armrest and speed nut. It's hard to reach, so having someone with thin long fingers is helpful.
15a) NOTE: You might want to install the speaker cover after the armrest but before the map pocket, if you're going to use screws at the OEM points.
15b) Once everything's positioned, pull the tabs tight. Carefully flip the panel, fold and screw the tabs to the back of the panel. It should look something like this:

Mind how you fold the tabs, normally you want to fold "in" or towards the other tabs so that the screws go into the empty space of the armrests, unless you are using more short screws.
16) Cover the tabs with duct tape.

Lighting

Reply #3 – April 16, 2008, 02:36:38 AM

Disclaimer: I'm not particularly happy with the wiring and would like a more elegant install.

I used 6 x 10mm LEDs, 2 resistors and too much wire. One LED in each of the underside mounting holes, four in the door light. One LED in the door light is wired in series with the two underside lights. The two groups of three are wired parallel. Silicon and friction locate all the LEDs.

The two leads will go to the original wedge socket.

TC door panel rebuild

Reply #4 – April 16, 2008, 06:47:59 AM

WOW !!! That's intense.Just because of this thread,I will ALWAYS keep my low class,standard door panels.LOL.

TC door panel rebuild

Reply #5 – April 16, 2008, 02:58:44 PM

How secure are the door panels with only the perimeter and the pull handles securing it to the door?

TC door panel rebuild

Reply #6 – April 16, 2008, 03:41:20 PM

from what i see i looks like he made it so you could remove the panel without taking the armrest and door pocket off the panel. it looks like he is still planning to use the normal mounting holes for the panel just some mods to make it easier and last longer without them looking like ass.

This method only uses three fewer screws

Reply #7 – April 16, 2008, 03:51:07 PM

Quote from: Tbird232ci;214285

How secure are the door panels with only the perimeter and the pull handles securing it to the door?

You still use the two screws that angle downward (they go through the brackets visible in step 12), and still use the two vertical straps hidden by the armrest pad. If you want, you can use the three screws that go through the map pocket.

I didn't use the two screws that go upward into the bottom of the armrest and I didn't use the screw that goes behind the light fixture, although you could. All the arm rests I have are damaged at those points, that's why I put a strap there with a speed nut. The underside screws have always been a PITA for me, so I'm happy to lose them to hidden lighting.

My assumption with this modification is that the fiberboard and screw mounting areas are too worn to properly secure the parts and panel. The map pocket screw points are fragile, and the push pin mounts are even worse.

I'm laminating sheet metal to the back of the fiberboard with epoxy, then mounting velcro tabs to use take care of rearward corner of the panel. I haven't tested the velcro in place of the map pocket screws yet, but feel pretty confident they'll work. Three or four of those tabs should secure the bottom of the panel. They lock so strongly, I expect the adhesive to fail first.

You can still use the push pins at the top of the panel where the metal is.