fabricating rear lower control arms Reply #15 – February 01, 2008, 03:18:19 PM Darren-First I didn't lay out huge $$ for the Griggs stuff I got a smoking deal on the tubular combo used, and there's a shiznit ton of time and engineering involved in making a k-member(correctly) "reinventing the wheel" would be trying to fab one of those vs. laying down the $$ for a Griggs or MM k-member. Yeah they are expensive but again, that's a lot of weld time, engineering, and a fair amount of money in material.The LCA's, on the other hand, are a length of tube with a bushing end on one side and a rod end on the other. Pretty easy! Sure CHE only gets $150, but I'm pretty sure I can make them for less then half that. Plus I asked this question to see if anyone who had made their own LCA tried making the body from Aluminum? I'm a machinist by trade so making the body is easy, I just wondered what others have used for the ends.Don't think I'm made of money b/c I have Griggs and coil-overs, most everything I've modded on my car I've either bought used or made myself. I save where I can so that I can spend where/when I want. If I can save a few bucks here, I can spend it over there.Che's price of $150 is very reasonable and I've heard nothing but good things about them, however (and not to sound pen 15y) I think I can do better for less. (and that means better for my application not necessarily everyone else's) I hope that makes sense without sounding arrogant, and I know what you are saying about getting tired of making everything, but whenever I buy something that I know I could have made, I think about what else I could have bought with that money. Like beer :)Blu- thanks I'll send PMAndrew-My original plan was rod ends on either side, but it seems like a lot of people are happier with poly on one end to eliminate bind. You say you are happy with a two rod ends? So the ones you made look something like this:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Autofab-79-98-Mustang-Upper-and-Lower-Control-Arms-Race_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33583QQihZ023QQitemZ360016894604QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVWGlobal West has me confused, read this, it's at the bottom of the page where it lists their tubular LCAs and different bushing comboshttp://www.globalwest.net/mustang%2079-98.htm#Rear%20Tubular%20control%20armsI like the choice at the bottom, is this right? del-a-lum=delrinGranted this is from chevy guys, but here's what I found:http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/suspension-chassis/374255-delalum-vs-urethane.htmlthanksD Quote Selected
fabricating rear lower control arms Reply #16 – February 01, 2008, 03:29:54 PM Shoot man I hear you loud and clear. Typically you cannot find a used T-Bird aftermarket anything so my assumption that you bought it new was from that not to mention I am a bit jealous as I paid for mine new. Being that you are a machinist this should be super easy once you have the dims and figure out what type of joints you want to run with. When you get them done please post some pictures as I always enjoy seeing the end product especially when it comes to these cars.Darren Quote Selected
fabricating rear lower control arms Reply #17 – February 02, 2008, 06:18:34 PM My control arms are an exact replica of thesehere is the link to thier web sitehttp://www.bmrfabrication.com/Mustang.htmWhen using spherical bearings on both ends there will be no binding at all! I have designed the same supspension as in our T-birds in SolidWorks 3D modeling software to see what happens when the suspension is moved. There is no binding at all just side to side location of the axle as in any four link design. Like I said before the only down side to using spherical bearings on both ends is the there is more road noise in the car. Quote Selected
fabricating rear lower control arms Reply #18 – February 03, 2008, 04:51:28 PM my rear control arms use a spherical bearing at the chassis side and urethane bushings on the rearend.. Quote Selected
fabricating rear lower control arms Reply #19 – February 09, 2008, 11:45:46 AM Update:This is exactly what I had in mind:http://www.jonaadland.com/Z28/Mods/LCA/AluminumLCAs.htmlA couple people came through with links over on the Corral when I posted this:http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=989018I'm going to make a set of these as soon as I get the rod ends.I've found the xmr-12/lml-12 rod ends for around $25 each, still shopping around for a deal on an improved 3 pc version like the hmr-12t/hml-12t. Probably start with the xm's for now. My plan was to keep the cost between $100-150. I'll spend 100 bucks on four rod ends, and make the actual arms for around 20-25 bucks. I'll use 1 1/4" diameter 6061 aluminum. Cut it to length (they should be about 14-16" long roughly;I haven't measured the centerline-to-centerline distance yet) then drill and tap either end, one side right-hand, the side opposite left-handed 3/4-16 threads.I haven't decided for sure what I want to use for bushings/spacers, but I'll figure something out. I've found a few oil-lite bushings at work that I think are the same thing most people use, and I can make the spacers real easy out of tubing stock.Has anyone else here, who has converted to coil-overs done anything similar? Quote Selected
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