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Paint question.

Well, I think it may finally be time to look at getting my car painted, or at least some body work.

Now, here's my biggest question- the guy I bought this car from told me it's been repainted twice (once because it was keyed, once because of acid rain, he said).

Now the clearcoat & paint is peeling/bubbling in several places.

Will I have to have this car completely stripped before it can be painted again? I don't even wanna think about how much that will probably cost...

Garrett H.
'94 F250 XLT- 4x4, 5 speed, 7.3 IDI Turbo Diesel, 4" intake, 4" exhaust, 5" turnout stacks, manual hubs, etc.
'87 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
Engine, wheels, tires, etc!
Exhaust sound clip
Another clip

Paint question.

Reply #1
Depends on how the paint is underneath. I've seen some cars that have been painted 5-6 times that look great and you couldn't even tell they had been painted that many times (until you looked in the door jamb really close ;) ). It depends on the prep work. If it was me and I had the $$$ I would have it taken down to bare metal and re-done. That does cost a lot of $$$ though......
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

Paint question.

Reply #2
Well, from what I can see, it looks like the most recent coat if paint is separating from the earlier paint, hence the bubbling and peeling, as you can see paint under areas where the top layer of paint has come off. I think whoever painted it didn't prep it correctly.

Garrett H.
'94 F250 XLT- 4x4, 5 speed, 7.3 IDI Turbo Diesel, 4" intake, 4" exhaust, 5" turnout stacks, manual hubs, etc.
'87 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
Engine, wheels, tires, etc!
Exhaust sound clip
Another clip

Paint question.

Reply #3
Quote from: Red_LX;202205
Well, from what I can see, it looks like the most recent coat if paint is separating from the earlier paint, hence the bubbling and peeling, as you can see paint under areas where the top layer of paint has come off. I think whoever painted it didn't prep it correctly.


I that case at least the current layer of paint is going to have to come off. If it doesn't then they layer that goes on next will do the same thing.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

Paint question.

Reply #4
60-80 grit on a DA sander took 3 coats off of my brothers nova

then 120-200 to fine tune things

Paint question.

Reply #5
I think I'm gonna run by a couple body shops and get an estimate on getting the whole thing done and painted.

It needs the driver's side door and fender replaced (which I would do) and a dent pulled out of the quarter right behind the driver's side door. Also needs the bottom of the rear quarters behind the rear wheels fixed.

Otherwise, it probably just needs sanded down and resprayed.

Garrett H.
'94 F250 XLT- 4x4, 5 speed, 7.3 IDI Turbo Diesel, 4" intake, 4" exhaust, 5" turnout stacks, manual hubs, etc.
'87 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
Engine, wheels, tires, etc!
Exhaust sound clip
Another clip

Paint question.

Reply #6
Why the driver's door and fender? Dented or something?


You know I figure in a few years (or now) we're going to have to start pulling dents out of doors and fenders and/or welding in new metal to replace rust as doors and fenders are scarce..........
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

Paint question.

Reply #7
bubbling and peeling= need for stripping the defective paint off be it sanding or media blasting.
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1974 maverick lsx powered turbo car SOLD
1973 maverick Tijuana Taxi Tribute
1957 chevy LSX Turbo project (race car)
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Paint question.

Reply #8
Most paint and body places are charging because of the labor.  If you can do some of the preliminary basic grunt stuff by removing the bad paint, that should save your wallet some pain.  And Capt Obvious says, don't leave the metal bare.
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Paint question.

Reply #9
you can strip an entire car in about 8 hrs
Use a dewalt buffer grinder at low rpm with 80 grit.  (you can use it to buff afterwards also)
the low rpm wont distort the metal
use a blaster to get into door jambs and rockers only
then epoxy prime
do body work and reprime any body work
if its been a while after the epoxy (more than 36 hrs), you have to scuff it before you paint
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***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
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5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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Paint question.

Reply #10
If you don't want to prime it, you something like picklex to protect the metal after stripping it
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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