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Topic: More Engine Problems... (Read 1150 times) previous topic - next topic

More Engine Problems...

Went out to start the bird up and move it a bit, As its been sitting a couple months.
And encountered some new and some old problems.

For one, the battery was dead... Apparently there is still a drain somewhere, I thought i found and fixed this already. :mad:

After charging the batt and starting it up, It came to life with a huge roawr and stayed at a high rev and would not go down... Then a huge amount of white smoke started coming out of the exhaust.
After the rev did not lower for like a minute and the smoke was getting worse i turned the car off, Only to hear a "Knocking" coming from under the manifold...
Any ideas?
~Project ThunderStorm = '84 Charcoal Thunderbird - First Car - Long Time Work in Progress~
~Project (No Name Yet) = 1970 Plymouth GTX/RR "Clone"~

More Engine Problems...

Reply #1
Went out started back up to a high rev and some smoke, But put it in reverse and backed it down the driveway and it seemed to settle down a bit.

Its not knocking anymore, but its got some issues with the idle i need to tend to...
Considering seems to rev extremely high by itself in idle?...
I dont need to give it any gas to move it in reverse or drive, heh.
A couple times when i put it into drive the rear tires screeched!!! and i had to hit the brakes hard.
Something very odd going on...

BTW, we dont drive this car at all yet outside of our driveway (project car)... So i find these things out at odd times like just moving it, if your wondering... :hick:
~Project ThunderStorm = '84 Charcoal Thunderbird - First Car - Long Time Work in Progress~
~Project (No Name Yet) = 1970 Plymouth GTX/RR "Clone"~

More Engine Problems...

Reply #2
How high does it idle?  It should idle down once the engine is warmed up..is this the case? You should let the engine warm up when you move the car.  Starting and stopping a cold engine is hard on it.
1988 Thunderbird
306 HO w/ A9P processor
AOD w/ Transgo Reprogrammer
Full Digital Dash w/ twin Cyberdyne A-pillar gauges 
245/50/16 Tires on Snowflakes
Engine swap - CA smog compliant

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Reply #3
my mustang had similar issues when i started useing it after it was put away for awhile, same motor and trans.
 revs high when you start it and never really comes down unless you put it in gear, it will pretty much drive itself to about 15-20 mph without useing the gas pedal:hick:
i replaced the isc but it came from a junkyard cougar and had to splice the wiring and got it to come down to about 1k rpms idle

the smoking i had from it came from a blown intake man. gasket.
ran slightly ruff, not like a miss but had lots of white smoke similar to a blown headgasket.

just stuff to consider, not meant for a diagnosis
"Beating the hell out of other peoples cars since 1999"
1983 Ford Thunderbird Heritage
1984 Ford Mustang GT Turbo Convertible
2015 Ford Focus SE 1.0 EcoBoost

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Reply #4
Mice get to it?Sounds like something hangin up.
Old Grey Cat to this.88 Cat, 5.0 HO, CW mounts, mass air, CI custom cam, afr165's, Tmoss worked cobra intake, BBK shorty's,off road h pipe, magnaflow ex. T-5,spec stage 2 clutch, 8.8 373 TC trac loc, che ajustables with bullits on the rear. 11" brakes up front. +

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Reply #5
A few things that can cause a continued high idle...stuck IAC motor, faulty TPS, ECT, or even ACT in some cases.  Rap on the IAC with the handle of a screwdriver while it's idling...see if there is a perceivable idle change.  I highly doubt you have a drain on the battery...if you let a car sit for months at a time, the battery is going to die...the ECU requires a minimal amount of voltage for it's memory...if it's going to sit for months at a time, disconnect the ground cable fromt he battery.

Good luck,
Don

P.S.- I would lean more towards the IAC motor, if it's not that, then I would look to the TPS...probably the two most likely of your problem.
Project 3G: Grandpa Grocery Getter-'85 Crown Vic LTD 2-door, 351W with heavily ported/polished GT40 heads, heavily ported/polished Typhoon Power Plus upper & lower intake, Comp Cams 265DEH retarded 1*, FAST EZ-EFI, HD T5, 8.8" 3.73 trac lock with extra clutches, 3G alt. swap, '99 CVPI front brakes, '09 CVPI rear disc brakes, '00 CVPI booster&m/c + wilwood adj prop valve.

Parted & Gone-'88 T-bird Sport, 351W swap, ported GT40 heads

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Reply #6
The smoke could be from dried-out valve seals.
If it's a project car, how often do you run the engine and/or move the car?
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

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Reply #7
Quote from: 88BlueBird;191216
How high does it idle?  It should idle down once the engine is warmed up..is this the case? You should let the engine warm up when you move the car.  Starting and stopping a cold engine is hard on it.

Yes i do let it warm up, However if theres any signs of unusual problems i'll tend to shut it off immediately let it sit for at least 10-20mins and then refire it to try and diagnose.

Quote from: Ductape91;191217
my mustang had similar issues when i started useing it after it was put away for awhile, same motor and trans.
 revs high when you start it and never really comes down unless you put it in gear, it will pretty much drive itself to about 15-20 mph without useing the gas pedal:hick:
i replaced the isc but it came from a junkyard cougar and had to splice the wiring and got it to come down to about 1k rpms idle

the smoking i had from it came from a blown intake man. gasket.
ran slightly ruff, not like a miss but had lots of white smoke similar to a blown headgasket.

just stuff to consider, not meant for a diagnosis
This sounds just like how my car is acting!
Its getting accel as if i had my foot to the pedal when i put it in drive or reverse from park, I have to keep my foot on the brake so it doesn't rocket up the driveway.
And the smoke has since settled down since i moved it down to the bottom of the driveway, It was previously at the top where it was on an incline.
I'll look into these things, Thanks!

Quote from: kitzdnm;191220
Mice get to it?Sounds like something hangin up.
Could be a possibility... Ill recheck and hoses the wiring in the car.

Quote from: Sick88Tbird;191262
A few things that can cause a continued high idle...stuck IAC motor, faulty TPS, ECT, or even ACT in some cases.  Rap on the IAC with the handle of a screwdriver while it's idling...see if there is a perceivable idle change.  I highly doubt you have a drain on the battery...if you let a car sit for months at a time, the battery is going to die...the ECU requires a minimal amount of voltage for it's memory...if it's going to sit for months at a time, disconnect the ground cable fromt he battery.

Good luck,
Don

P.S.- I would lean more towards the IAC motor, if it's not that, then I would look to the TPS...probably the two most likely of your problem.

Thanks, I'll look into all of these.

Quote from: cougarcragar;191294
The smoke could be from dried-out valve seals.
If it's a project car, how often do you run the engine and/or move the car?
I do need to do some seal work, I was waiting until the weather got better and i had the carport cleared out so i could move the bird in.
It's running the same gaskets and seals that i received the car with, And i wouldn't doubt some of them are original...

I try and move the car or at least start it up and run it every 2 weeks at the most, I slipped up the last couple months in letting it sit too long.
This car has spent about 75% of its life sitting at this point from what i hear from it's original owners, And for how long it's been waiting for me to get my ass in gear and really work on it.

I have some heavy tune-up and replacement work planned for the engine this coming summer, I just need it to stay somewhat healthy until then. :punchballs:
~Project ThunderStorm = '84 Charcoal Thunderbird - First Car - Long Time Work in Progress~
~Project (No Name Yet) = 1970 Plymouth GTX/RR "Clone"~

 

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Reply #8
sounds like a vac leak that the eec refuses to learn (which is a good thing).  Each start will be high until it comps for the vac loss ect ect.

If your bat is getting low all the time, similar issues happen with the eec as well.