Skip to main content
Topic: Dash lights play games too. (Read 1656 times) previous topic - next topic

Dash lights play games too.

So I'm driving along I4 and hit a bump and my dash light go blank. Now I've had this problem before and tapping on the cluster (full electronic) usually puts things back in line. That did not help. Checked the fuse. fuse is still good. Now I have no back lighting too.(had back lighting last time this happened) and the electronic ATC is not working either.  On top of that I have no turn signals. (may or may not be related) Hazards do work though. So the next time I start my car, everything works again. (except for the turn signals) and then it goes back out ten minutes down the road. I pull over check the fuse again (5 amp) and after some wigglin' dash lights works. Then it goes out again. Checked other threads and found good info but none helped for me. I'm thinking I have a shortage in a wire some where? Can I just rewire the power for the dash and the atc and put my own fuse on it? I want to fix this thing for good. and has anyone had the problem with the turn signals. the bulds are fine and the fuse is not blown there either. Before I go replacing parts that cost alot and do me no good, I'd like to take care of this. I'm pretty good with electical parts :welder:  and I just need to be pointed in the right direction.

Dash lights play games too.

Reply #1
You need an ignition switch. Not the lock cylinder (the thing you stick the key into), but the actual ignition switch inside the steering column. Replace it right now. Disconnect the battery and leave it disconnected until you do. Your car is at great risk to catch fire at the moment, whether you are in it or not. Even if it doesn't catch fire it is still very likely to leave you stranded.

This may sound alarmist, but I had one burn. I'm speaking from experience. Mine caught fire while driving, on vacation, roughly 500 miles from home. The switch is cheap, and it'll very likely (as in, almost certainly) fix your problem.
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

It is the switch

Reply #2
Can't believe it was the switch again. This is my fourth in six years. For some reason i just thought there was no way it was the same problem. Got to go with obvious fist before I second guess myself. Thanks

Dash lights play games too.

Reply #3
i just picked up a 20th and i noticed something the previous owner did not.

I discovered that the dash illumination did not dim or increase in intensity by rotating the thumb wheel.  Well,,, at almost max on the thumbwheel, the WHOLE FREAKING DASH and Cluster went black.

just fyi.  i have not looked into this yet, i just dont touch the thumbwheel for now.

Dash lights play games too.

Reply #4
Quote from: blackcatdaddy;179024
Can't believe it was the switch again. This is my fourth in six years. For some reason i just thought there was no way it was the same problem. Got to go with obvious fist before I second guess myself. Thanks

The clue that it's the ignition switch is the fact that the heater and turn signals also stopped working. The heater, turn signals and instrument cluster are all fed off of one circuit in the switch. The way Ford wired these cars (and almost all other 80's/90's models) is really stupid - instead of using relays they made the switch carry the full current for everything it switches. The heater alone is enough to overload that circuit and burn the switch contacts up. When the circuit goes bad you lose all of those functions (you may not have noticed, but you also didn't have cruise control or rear defrost).

When replacing the switch make sure the connector and harness going to it haven't burned up as well. No point in replacing the switch if the connector isn't making good contact.
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

wrecked harness

Reply #5
My wire harness connector is toast:flame: melted and broken into two pieces. I've got one burnt wire. So where could I get a replacement. Do I need to go to the junkyard and cut one off? What cars can I get one from? I think I'm going to put my own fuse  on the wire that is the culprit. Can't believe ford would do such a thing. I could have roasted my whole car.:flame: This sucks to a degree I can't believe. This is my only car.

Dash lights play games too.

Reply #6
I need to replace mine does the same  unless i hit the panel right under the cluster. How much are the parts to fix it?
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]


http://www.cardomain.com/id/Carpimp1987
1987 T-Bird AEROBIRD-GT had many many mods but is now totaled and is the car that made me want to start customizing everything all over again.
1988 T-Bird 5.0 HO DD/Sleeper/next project car :birdsmily:
1988 Cougar XR7 5.0 HO Vortech Supercharged being bulit right now :cougarsmily:


 

let there be light... dash lights of course

Reply #7
I bought the switch from Autozone for cheap around $11. also got a harness from another ford though aparantly they can be special ordered from autozone for under $10. The bad wire was blue with a yellow stripe if I'm correct. It was burnt so I could not tell. I put a 5amp fuse in-line with that power wire and buttoned everything up. Hopefully it's all good now. still have the turn signals not working. Don't know it its the flasher or the whole part with the hazards and the wipers. will keep you informed. It's a cheap fix. you do have to to get that tamper-proof torx bit though.