AC freon

Topic: AC freon (Read 3493 times) previous topic - next topic

Reply #15 – August 23, 2007, 08:08:24 PM

i've got a local shop quote of $300 for a full retrofit. is that a good price?

AC freon

Reply #16 – August 23, 2007, 08:53:28 PM

if that price includes freon thats a fair price for it from a mechanics shop. completly flushing the system can be a royal pain sometimes. the shop will have at least 2 hours labor in it.

AC freon

Reply #17 – August 24, 2007, 12:02:12 AM

:flame: Ok let the flames begin.

I wouldn't worry too much about the "refrigerant" contamination hype. It's way over rated. If you really want to, you could drain as much of the mineral oil out of the compressor and accumulator and fill it with ester oil around 6-8oz., which I believe is compatible with both refrigerants. Vacuum it down and charge with the r134 fitting on the low side and the compresor running. Try not to charge with too much liquid by dumping in alot at one time. Regulate the suction side 50-60psi charging with the ac on max, the compressor should live during the charge. 134 does work at slightly higher pressures than 12, but nothing to make any big modifications for. Do it yourself and save big

AC freon

Reply #18 – August 24, 2007, 03:19:40 AM

Or you could just remove it.

*Runs and hides*.

AC freon

Reply #19 – August 24, 2007, 05:06:07 AM

evaporator and accumulator don’t ask me why but I always screw them up though I do know which is which

AC freon

Reply #20 – August 24, 2007, 07:51:30 AM

It isn't that hard to remember. The evaporator is in the dash with the heater core. The accumulator is under the hood it is that metal can over by the heater core water lines. The condenser is the part that is in front of the radiator. The only parts left are the lines and the compressor. Oh yeah the orifice tube is inside one of the lines. To replace it you would have to buy a new line or cut the metal section and take the old one out and put the new one in there and put it back together. They make kits to replace the orifice tube you can get them at the parts store.

AC freon

Reply #21 – August 25, 2007, 12:19:51 AM

Call the accumulator the drier then. Even though it is on the suction side, it still contains a desicant bag.

Condensor = when the heat from the coil is gotten rid of in front of the radiator, the refrigerant condenses.

Evaporator= when the heat is taken in to coil inside the vehicle, the refrigerant vaporizes.

AC freon

Reply #22 – August 25, 2007, 06:52:45 AM

Man I guess I’m getting schooled.

AC freon

Reply #23 – August 25, 2007, 11:03:41 AM

Quote from: Innes;171872

Man I guess I’m getting schooled.

No not schooled just some info that's all. :D That being said.....

When using r12, it is extremely critical to evacuate the system( vacuum the system), what this does is to lower the pressure so most all of the moisture is vaporized(boiled) out of the system. Any residual moisture should be easily absorbed by the desicant in the accumulator/reciever-drier(as long as it's not totally saturated). See when water(moisture) absorbs/interacts with r12 it causes a chemical reaction resulting in low level hydrochloric acid. Hydrochloric acid and sulfuric acid(battery acid) are some of the most corrosive substances known to man. Having hcl acid in your ac system can cause problems and any concentration should be avoided when possible.
Also, when the chemical used in r12 was burned it caused phosgene "mustard gas" which was used as a poisonous gas in WWI. Might make you wonder why anyone would want to use r12 instead of r134a.
Nonetheless, imho r12 is a better cooling refrigerant.
Unfortunately, I don't much of any side effects of 134. Guess you could say I'm "old schooled" :hick:

Mike