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Topic: Blew up ANOTHER PS pump (Read 3685 times) previous topic - next topic

Blew up ANOTHER PS pump

Reply #15
I read that.NICE looking chick,which even makes it better.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Blew up ANOTHER PS pump

Reply #16
Quote from: CougarSE;172527
I think the MN12's have the same big pulley.


yes and on 3.8'.  you will slow down the fluid and flow with less rpm's.

on a side not, the Mid 80's LTD's had a smaller pully which makes for easier steering.

Blew up ANOTHER PS pump

Reply #17
Bet she was a bukkake star.

lol, jeremy made me laugh.
93 Festiva L, 193k miles, BP+T/G25MR swap, T3 50trim .48/.42, SRT FMIC, Capri electronics/Rocketchip, 2.5" exhaust
bests: ET 12.86, MPH 110.25, 1.92 short
02 Subaru Impreza WRX, 129k miles
97 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport, 236k miles

Blew up ANOTHER PS pump

Reply #18
Well, I think I know what happened:



Not sure you can tell by looking, but the shaft is offset from center and angled. Good thing I decided to replace the rack & hoses, the pump bearing broke and ground up metal was everywhere turning the fluid a nice black color. Got it together and working BTW.

While I was at it, I decided it would be a good time to change the coltrol arms and convert to 11" brakes. I got three bolts loose and hit them 'till they were an inch from popping out. Guess what happened with the 4th one?

Yep, bolt is frozen solid to the control arm bushing tube. Spun it and beat it 'till I sprained my knee while prying at it with a pry bar. I am really hurting now - my career working on cars may be limited with the problems I'm having now :(.

What's the deal? How to people get these bolts out? Should I just sawz-all it? What a friggin' pain in the arse. Good thing I decided to just loosten and bang the bolt to see if they would come loose - at least I can still move the car around until I get that last bolt loose.
11.96 @ 118 MPH old 306 KB; 428W coming soon.

Blew up ANOTHER PS pump

Reply #19
Hey, someone answer me  it! :D

Well, my knee is starting to heal up - how do I get the  bolt unstuck from the ed bushing sleeve?

Sawzall?

Torch?

Drive the car off of a cliff???
11.96 @ 118 MPH old 306 KB; 428W coming soon.

Blew up ANOTHER PS pump

Reply #20
What are you changing the control arms for?  Have a set with new bushings?  If beating the hell out of it doesn't work..  You can take an air chisel and cut the bushing shell open and dig through the rubber, when you make it to the sleeve turn the bolt around until you find the seam of the sleeve.  Pry it open and spray some PB Blaster in there.
One 88

Blew up ANOTHER PS pump

Reply #21
Yeah, getting at that seam is the key - thanks for the idea - i think I will be able to do that.

BTW, I have new 2003 Cobra A-arms, Mustang spindles, nice grooved 11" rotors, stainless lines - all waiting to go on as one unit.
11.96 @ 118 MPH old 306 KB; 428W coming soon.

Blew up ANOTHER PS pump

Reply #22
So you are sticking with 4 lug to keep the turbines and drag wheels?
One 88

Blew up ANOTHER PS pump

Reply #23
Yeah, gold turbines and drag wheels - lots of $$ tied up there already. I did find out that the rumors about the studs that Moser ships with their axles are true. Can you imagine shipping soft studs with 31 spline axles - it makes no sense! Lucky when I used just the skinnies one time they bagged me for the short studs - when I went to change the rears they were ALL nicely bent due to launching at the track on the turbines with 28" M/T drag radials!! Lucky I didn't loose a friggin' wheel!

On another note, I was able to nab a 6.75" PS pulley at the bone yard today (stock is 5.75"). I was relieved that it had the right offset as he had pulled the pump off the car and I had no idea what model it came from - though I was pretty sure it was good due to using the identical pump and the "E2..." part number. Cleaning and painting it now - woohoo! I was running a 1.02 ratio which was good, I had issues with the 0.76 ratio the underdrive crank pulley gave me, but I think this 0.86 ratio will be a good compromise. The stock crank/PS pulley ratio is 1.13 - Yikes! Talk about not made to be revved. Perhaps they were trying to compensate for the "difficult" 15:1 rack ratio on these cars - who knows.

On a third note - I'm still smashing the living @#$@ out of that one A-arm bolt - it just won't budge. I have jammed an ice-pick into the seam and sprayed a ton of rust eater in there - but so far no luck. I may end up slipping a metal cutting sawz-all blade in either side and cutting the bolt - I ruined the nut/bolt anyway by smashing it with a mini-sledge about 100 times :hick: . Did I say that I'm getting too old for this ?? :punchballs:
11.96 @ 118 MPH old 306 KB; 428W coming soon.

 

Blew up ANOTHER PS pump

Reply #24
Quote from: jcassity;173003
yes and on 3.8'.  you will slow down the fluid and flow with less rpm's.

on a side not, the Mid 80's LTD's had a smaller pully which makes for easier steering.

Unless you get over-rev the pump or run it so slowly that you exceed the flow rate necessary to keep the specified regulated pressure - pulley size has no effect on steering effort.

Steering effort is mainly a combination of pump pressure and steering rack valve/torsion bar. Once the pump has reached its regulated pressure, it bypasses the excess pressure. 700 or 4000 shaft rpm will result in the same steering effort- given the previous caveats.

Righteous Steering Tech