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Topic: Welding Sub Frames / Underneath (Read 1948 times) previous topic - next topic

Welding Sub Frames / Underneath

Well, All I have to say is...Anybody who Welds "GOD BLESS YOU !"

Gumby is an amazing welder, on the other extreme is me. I took almost all day to simply tack in my underside SFC's. I started to complete one side(passenger side).  it is a B@#$%.

At least I am pretty sure its not coming out but I need more practice.

Welding on a plate on the bench and welding under the car are two differant animals. I cant seem to flow the pool as nice underneath the car as you can on the bench..Hmmmm

I will get some pics up when I am not frustrated anymore.



1985 Thunderbird TC
2.3l .03 over,Ported and polished Head and E6 Manifold, LA3, T3/T4 Hybrid Turbo, Stinger FMIC, Forge BOV, Full 3" Exhaust, Essy Timing Gears & UDP's, BBK 255lph Fuel Pump, Kirban AFPR, Kirban Short Shifter, K&N Cone, Forced4 VC Vent Kit, PA Performance 3g Alternator, Energy Suspension Bushings throughout, CHE LCA's, SFC's [/LEFT]

Welding Sub Frames / Underneath

Reply #1
I didn't think it was that bad when I did it, aside from sweating my ass off in that welding shirt and gloves (since I did it in july or august).

I agree that it is harder to see (glad I have that auto-darkening helmet!), but mine went in fairly well except that I went through almost 2-1lb spools of wire on the job. sheesh.

Garrett H.
'94 F250 XLT- 4x4, 5 speed, 7.3 IDI Turbo Diesel, 4" intake, 4" exhaust, 5" turnout stacks, manual hubs, etc.
'87 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
Engine, wheels, tires, etc!
Exhaust sound clip
Another clip

Welding Sub Frames / Underneath

Reply #2
Quote from: chri85tc;151176

Welding on a plate on the bench and welding under the car are two differant animals.


thats for sure! when settin up a welder on the bench, then movin to a confined space or out of position weld, there are always fine tunings to be done. looks like you are doin a'ight under there. keep at it, tweak on the welder a lil bit if needed and see where that takes you.

dont get frustrated, the more practice you get the easier it will come to ya. ;)
gumby - beauty may fade, but stupid is forever!

Welding Sub Frames / Underneath

Reply #3
Welding under cars is a completely different ball game. When I do mine im gonna be in a pit standing. Ive layed down to weld exhaust for people numerous times, and it came out great, but you gotta practice at it.
"Real cars dont power the front wheels, they lift them"
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
1984 Mercury Cougar GS 5.0:cougarsmily: BBK Equal Length Shorties, BBK O/R X-Pipe, Magnaflow Magnapacks, Mustang GT Stainless Tailpipes, 18" Magnaflow Rolled Edge Tips. Turbo Coupe Hood, Mach 1 Chin Spoiler. 17"x9" Cobra R's, Falken Ziex 255/50s, and 245/45s.
1984 Ford Thunderbird 3.8L "Drag Queen"
2009 Dodge Ram 1500 Lone Star Edition 5.7L Hemi 400hp, lex DOD14M Magnaflow retro-fit ler kit

Welding Sub Frames / Underneath

Reply #4
Ok so I kind of got the welding to look almost like it will work. I completely welded bothe rails on, sort of. A couple of gaps here and there, couple of burn holes and lots of spatter.

I got my SFC's from Stinger and they came with plates to weld on the 1 x 2's, I guess for reinforcement. Are these really necessary ? Because when I tried to weld one , it kind of melted a lot quicker then the SFC and the frame rail. It seems to be a differant material.

And does the weld have to be a complete bead to be effective? (refer to my "pretty weld" statemant above)
1985 Thunderbird TC
2.3l .03 over,Ported and polished Head and E6 Manifold, LA3, T3/T4 Hybrid Turbo, Stinger FMIC, Forge BOV, Full 3" Exhaust, Essy Timing Gears & UDP's, BBK 255lph Fuel Pump, Kirban AFPR, Kirban Short Shifter, K&N Cone, Forced4 VC Vent Kit, PA Performance 3g Alternator, Energy Suspension Bushings throughout, CHE LCA's, SFC's [/LEFT]

plate

Reply #5
I would put some plate on both sides and weld around this, but I tend to overdo things.

After I put in my connectors I could not believe how much stiffer my car felt and even the doors worked better.  In fact you can jack it up high on one corner and the doors still work great.  Ford should have done this from the factory.

Keep up the great work.

TED

Welding Sub Frames / Underneath

Reply #6
One thing that makes welding under the car difficult is the fact that the floor and framerails are galvanized. That's probably why you had a problem with spattering.
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

Welding Sub Frames / Underneath

Reply #7
Quote from: Thunder Chicken;153238
One thing that makes welding under the car difficult is the fact that the floor and framerails are galvanized. That's probably why you had a problem with spattering.


would using a tig give a better weld with that?
1979 Ford Fairmont
[/B]
5.0L/4R70W/8.8"/5-lug/3" Exhuast


Welding Sub Frames / Underneath

Reply #8
Quote from: Cad-T-Bird 500;153119
Ford should have done this from the factory.


they should have never made unibody cars, it's just stupid!

looks pretty good, sounds like you're using flux core wire, lol.

Welding Sub Frames / Underneath

Reply #9
Quote from: 32VFoxBird;153260
would using a tig give a better weld with that?

I don't think. Galvanized metal is coated with a different metal (zinc, I think) and when you melt and try to mix two different metals you'll get a mess. The only way to avoid it is to get the zinc off the metal, either by grinding (and that subframe metal is pretty thin so don't grind too much) or maybe use a chemical if one's available.
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

 

Welding Sub Frames / Underneath

Reply #10
Quote from: Thunder Chicken;153266
I don't think. Galvanized metal is coated with a different metal (zinc, I think) and when you melt and try to mix two different metals you'll get a mess. The only way to avoid it is to get the zinc off the metal, either by grinding (and that subframe metal is pretty thin so don't grind too much) or maybe use a chemical if one's available.


i used a wire wheel on an angle grinder to "prep" the metal, but didnt work out to well. ive been seriously debating on cutting the sfc off, and trying again. this time ill use a flap disc to get a better bite into the metal. my sfc are 11ga, so grinding on them shouldnt be an issue.
1979 Ford Fairmont
[/B]
5.0L/4R70W/8.8"/5-lug/3" Exhuast