Body tips, and "how to?"... February 21, 2007, 07:07:35 AM Hello,Okay, FIRST, some tools You will need to do a good job.Some of these tools will be substitued by another thing, but here's the essential.5" grinder with a 24 or 36 grit disk.3/8" air drill (or electric drill) with a 1/8 body drill. (may not needed).Little anvil around 10 pounds (very useful).Body hammer(s), You may use a wood hammer.steel body dolly (not show), or a steel block.Aluminium sheet metal (1/8") to blend the bondo (steel is ok too).some C-Clams.pop Riveter. (if needed).STEEL pop rivets. (if needed).SUGGESTED!: Mig welder or acetylene torch or spotwelder machine, and SANDBLAST GUN, and a little air compressor.NEEDED!:Rubber sanding block (around 5$).Long sanding bed (around 10$) if needed.Finishing putty glazer (couple of bucks).Plastic (bondo) glazers, (4-5$).Plastic (bondo) rope, the ROUND ONE, not the flat oneI'll explain in a next message the usage of some needed or not tools...Here is a pic of the tools.Have a nice Day,Dom. Quote Selected
Body tips, and "how to?"... Reply #1 – February 21, 2007, 07:20:57 AM Some stuff needed.Depending of the damaged area You have to repair You don't need all of this stuff, but some is essential...Sheetmetal 20 or 22 gauge IF NEEDED.Fiberglass resin.Fiberglass cloth.Fiberglass premix.Plastic body filler (Bondo).Finishing putty (standard or catalyzed***)Primer and lacquer thinner for...(You may use a BODY USE spray can primer).Some sandpaper, 40 grit or 80 grit, 100, 180, 320, and 400 grit.Gravel guard, undercoating air gun cans (spray can if You need).3/4" masking tape, and some newspaper...Old spray gun for primer if You have a air compressor...***I'll explain the difference and if You not experienced, choose the standard one.Again, You don't necessary need all of this stuff, it depends of the job You do on Your car, I'll explain in a next message...Here's a pic... Quote Selected
Body tips, and "how to?"... Reply #2 – February 21, 2007, 08:20:57 AM Okay,For the tools needed there is the needed or not, and the use of each.The 1/8" aluminium tole, I prefer the aluminium sheet to blend the plastic (bondo) filler because the filler "glue" less than on the aluminium instead the steel, and it generally thicker and lighter as well, an old street sign is good for this (don't steal one):hick: .When You finished to blend and the filler is applyed on the car, clean the aluminium as the best of possible with Your glazer, and if needed, grind it a bit to clean the rest of filler...-----------------------------------------------------The C Clams will be very useful to maintain a sheetmetal on the car, for an example, a long sheet at the bottom of the quarter panel.-----------------------------------------------------The little anvil is very helpful to break a small sheetmetal, for an example a little part need to be breaked on a end, or molded with a hammer, a railroad track is good too to break a large sheetmetal (2 feet or over).----------------------------------------------------The grinder is STRONGLY recommended to grind the rust, and paint in the repair area, the bondo don't "glue" on a paint, and crack with vibrations.For a bottom of a rear quarter panel rotted, You must use the grinder to clean the working area, and I recommend to cut with a tole cutter the rest of rotted area, IT'S A CANCER! remove it!!!.In a some areas, like a body heavy curved area, don't grind too much, this will burn the tole, and thin the tole too, don't push too hard on the grinder, just the necessary.AND, use the grinder as flat as possible when You capable, the people generally grind always with the exterior of the disk, this is not good cauz it's use the outer disk area for nothing, use the outer of the disc only in a corners or a kinked area, otherwise, use the center as possible, this will make a equal wear disk.--------------------------------------------------Rivets and riveter, I use this only to maintain a large sheetmetal temporarily, I weld the sheet, and remove/grind after.BUT if You have only this solution (no welding facilities), use ONLY a STEEL (not coated) rivets, the aluminium rivets make a poor job, first it loose with vibration, and make an oxyde under the filler, and do the bubbles in a few months, or years, steel on steel is the BEST...OOPS!, NEVER use aluminium or galvanized sheetmetal to repair, the aluminium make an oxyde, and the filler don't bond correctly on, and the galvanize too, this make a shiznit job.For the body use a steel sheetmetal gauge 22, it's not to hard to mold, for the floorpans, ect, use a 20guauge sheetmetal, it's a bit stronger...--------------------------------------------------I use an air drill to do My 1/8" holes for the rivets because it turn VERY FAST, but a good electric/battery drill do the job, it's just slower a bit.--------------------------------------------------Body hammers is important depending of the job You do, on some jobs a REAL body hammer (flat at one side and a pic at other side) will do a better job, especially when You redress a panel with a dolly/hammer, but it's not very very essential, a "wood" hammer will do the job in 80% of the time.--------------------------------------------------The little rubber block is NEEDED in any body job, the rubber body of this block don't make any grooves in Your sanding area, and the change of sandpaper is very quick, sanding with a wood block or a metal plaster sandpaper holder do the flat sanding, and not spouse the body like the real sanding rubber block.-------------------------------------------------The long sanding bed is very good to sand the large/long surfaces, like the bottom of a door, quarters, hood, ect, it made of a flexible plastic, andYou will bend under or over if You want, It made a very good straight surfaces like a bottom of doo, ect, use in a 45` motion when Your needed form was okay, I'll explain later with a pic...------------------------------------------------The putty glazer is only a semi soft rubber pad, It used to apply the finishing putty, NEVER apply an 1/8" layer of finishing putty, this will crack and "move" with the time, make Your plastic filler as clean as possible, and use the FINISHING putty ONLY to FINISH the job, don't use to make a patch over a tole:D .Use a light layer at a time, and if needed repeat 2 and 3 times.-----------------------------------------------Plastic/bondo glazers, use the little one to mix the batch, then use the medium or large to apply, NEVER drop the mixing glazer in the plastic gallon, this will contaminate the gallon, and dry slowly but surely Your new stuff.-----------------------------------------------The plastic/bondo rope, use ONLY a round rope, not a flat one, a curved rope used properly do a clean and straight job, If YOu break Your robe, don't put in a trashcan, it's very helpful to do some areas with the point of the broken rope...-----------------------------------------------Okay, I'll go to the stuff now!!!.:D Dom. 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Body tips, and "how to?"... Reply #3 – February 21, 2007, 08:31:21 AM Wow,I need a lot of stuff.I think I have the basic stuff to dow what little is needed on the Sport.Keep the info coming.I love this stuff. Quote Selected
Body tips, and "how to?"... Reply #4 – February 21, 2007, 08:50:29 AM Now, the stuff...The fiberglass resin and fiberglass cloth, I hate to use this in a body repair, it's better to mold or repair a fiberglass areas, but If You don't want to put a sheetmetal in a little hole, You may use this, this will do a good job, but it's fragile in the winter, But it's a good alternative to the sheetmetal repair.---------------------------------------The fiberglass premix is a very funny stuff, it's like a mashed potatoes with hairs in it:D , very good to block a little rust hole, like 1/4", if You have a 1/4" little hole, just drill a 3/8" hole in it, then punch the hole with a habber to do a "bullet" hole, then fill with it, it mix exactly as the plastic/bondo filler...I use this when I make a rivets job, or a non full welded jobs, I use to seal the non welded areas, it's cheaper than the lead job, and do a good durable job anyway.----------------------------------------The plastic filler is used to fill over a repaired area like a welded sheetmetal, repaired bump, or whatever, You fill a 1" hole if You wantbut I don't recommend that, this make a cheaper job, generally, use this for an 1/4" or less thick filling to make a pre finition over the riveted or welded/bumped area...NEVER do a BIG batch of this, cauz it dry so fast, make a batck of maximum of a half soft ball size, then apply, and reapply another layer if needed.Never wait to dry completely to rope, touch after a couple minutes of the application, and when it "al dente" try with rope, if it roll under the rope, it's not enough dry, When You rope the plastic, it supposed to make a chips like a mozzarella, like You rope a cheese, exactly the same, if You wait too long, You have another choice to grind a bit and re do the job...I'll explain more in a next msg, with pics:D .-----------------------------------------------Primer:If You don't have a compressor or just a little area to repair, grab a can or two of BODY primer, it's less expensive of a quart of primer for gun method, If You use a gun method for the first time, mix around 60% of primer for a 40% thinner, then shoot at around 30-50lbs pressure, do not flood the area in one layer, do a couple of layers smoothly, it You shoot too much of primer (gun or can) over a finishing putty, this will melt this one, and crack when it dry, I'll explain better in a next post with a pics:D :D :D -----------------------------------------------The undercoat don't need any explainations, but I use the GRAVEL GUARD to seal My overlaped sheetmetal inside the car, I'll shoot a bit of black of rustcoat or corrostop or tremclad first, when it dryed I'll shoot a good layer or two over the junction, this seal to protect from humidity, then I re shoot a little layer of black paint over to make a clean job...I use too on the rockers panels to prevent stone chipping, it's made especially for that:hick: .But on an antique/showcar don't use this...-----------------------------------------------Okay for now, I'll repost some examples pics later, I don't feel sooo good since a week, I'll continue when I'll feel better...Hope this help guy's,Have a nice Day,Dom. Quote Selected
Body tips, and "how to?"... Reply #5 – February 21, 2007, 08:55:08 AM Now, the stuff...The fiberglass resin and fiberglass cloth, I hate to use this in a body repair, it's better to mold or repair a fiberglass areas, but If You don't want to put a sheetmetal in a little hole, You may use this, this will do a good job, but it's fragile in the winter, But it's a good alternative to the sheetmetal repair.---------------------------------------The fiberglass premix is a very funny stuff, it's like a mashed potatoes with hairs in it:D , very good to block a little rust hole, like 1/4", if You have a 1/4" little hole, just drill a 3/8" hole in it, then punch the hole with a habber to do a "bullet" hole, then fill with it, it mix exactly as the plastic/bondo filler...I use this when I make a rivets job, or a non full welded jobs, I use to seal the non welded areas, it's cheaper than the lead job, and do a good durable job anyway.----------------------------------------The plastic filler is used to fill over a repaired area like a welded sheetmetal, repaired bump, or whatever, You fill a 1" hole if You wantbut I don't recommend that, this make a cheaper job, generally, use this for an 1/4" or less thick filling to make a pre finition over the riveted or welded/bumped area...NEVER do a BIG batch of this, cauz it dry so fast, make a batck of maximum of a half soft ball size, then apply, and reapply another layer if needed.Never wait to dry completely to rope, touch after a couple minutes of the application, and when it "al dente" try with rope, if it roll under the rope, it's not enough dry, When You rope the plastic, it supposed to make a chips like a mozzarella, like You rope a cheese, exactly the same, if You wait too long, You have another choice to grind a bit and re do the job...I'll explain more in a next msg, with pics:D .-----------------------------------------------Primer:If You don't have a compressor or just a little area to repair, grab a can or two of BODY primer, it's less expensive of a quart of primer for gun method, If You use a gun method for the first time, mix around 60% of primer for a 40% thinner, then shoot at around 30-50lbs pressure, do not flood the area in one layer, do a couple of layers smoothly, it You shoot too much of primer (gun or can) over a finishing putty, this will melt this one, and crack when it dry, I'll explain better in a next post with a pics:D :D :D -----------------------------------------------The undercoat don't need any explainations, but I use the GRAVEL GUARD to seal My overlaped sheetmetal inside the car, I'll shoot a bit of black of rustcoat or corrostop or tremclad first, when it dryed I'll shoot a good layer or two over the junction, this seal to protect from humidity, then I re shoot a little layer of black paint over to make a clean job...I use too on the rockers panels to prevent stone chipping, it's made especially for that:hick: .But on an antique/showcar don't use this...-----------------------------------------------Okay for now, I'll repost some examples pics later, I don't feel sooo good since a week, I'll continue when I'll feel better...Hope this help guy's,Have a nice Day,Dom. Quote Selected
Body tips, and "how to?"... Reply #6 – February 21, 2007, 09:26:12 AM Hello!,Quote from: vinnietbird;130662Wow,I need a lot of stuff.I think I have the basic stuff to dow what little is needed on the Sport.Keep the info coming.I love this stuff.Like I explain in this thread, You don't need all the stuff and tools I mentionned, But it's at large, depending of the job to do, You need this and this, ect...And remember, it's a body thread for STARTERS, or not very experienced, I don't want to start to explain the "how to" with the 5hp compressor I have, lot of guns, Mig weld, spotweld, torch, the catalytic finishing putty, catalytic primer, lot of air tools, ect, ect, If I start to explain in a "professionnal" language with tools, the thread will be completely useless for all on the board...I just started this to help the guys want to do the little bodywork itself on his car, and do a good and durable job, no more...I started this thread with absolutely no pretentions, just to help step by step the people want to do, and help as My best as possible with the tools/stuff the people have...I really don't want to start to explain a 15 layers showcar paint here, with a 1000 or 1200 grit between the layers...If I start to do this, the guys want to do by itself will tale a gun and shoot:hick: .You not posted another pivs of Your car progress, I hope I'll see it again in a near future:D Have a nice Day Vinnie,Dom. Quote Selected
Body tips, and "how to?"... Reply #7 – February 21, 2007, 04:44:17 PM Any suggestions before I start in a few Days????...all comments and/or questions are very welcome...Dom. Quote Selected
Body tips, and "how to?"... Reply #8 – March 08, 2007, 02:59:38 PM I guess this thread is not useful, I'll wait until My bird painted, and delete the thread... and probablu before...Dom. Quote Selected
Body tips, and "how to?"... Reply #9 – March 08, 2007, 05:25:19 PM I really enjoy reading it. It is very informative. Quote Selected
Body tips, and "how to?"... Reply #10 – March 08, 2007, 06:41:26 PM Nice write-up Dom. You put a lot of time and effort into this. Please do not delete it. Quote Selected
Body tips, and "how to?"... Reply #11 – March 08, 2007, 11:55:46 PM I'm interested. When I get my car painted in the next year or two I'd like to do some of the prep work myself to save money. I need to learn how to use bondo to smooth out some minor dents and such that the car has. Don't delete this:D Quote Selected
Body tips, and "how to?"... Reply #12 – March 10, 2007, 05:14:33 PM Okay, finally I don't delete this thread, it's just because since a couple of week I feel very bad, some problems with My "ex" Girlfriend meke me feel bad, and more cauz I'll go to the courthouse the March 19 for a stupid history between he and Me...I guess I'll wait after the 19 to paint the Bird, I'll feel better to paint a car after that...Have a nice Day,Dom. Quote Selected
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