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Topic: aftermarket amp, premium sound (Read 1976 times) previous topic - next topic

aftermarket amp, premium sound

I recently got a Cerwin Vega 10" sub from a buddy of mine, i already have an amp, and a box that i need to modify a bit. The biggest thing with me is that im trying to keep the Premium Sound radio and EQ fully functional, but thats not the main problem.

The problem im having, is figuring out how to send the "power on" signal to the amp, without having to manually turn a switch on and off. Is there a way to do this without the antenna signal?
It's Gumby's fault.

aftermarket amp, premium sound

Reply #1
The EQ is only live when the radio is on. Power goes in the stereo, out another wire to the equalizer. Find which wire that is and splice, works great.

At least mine was like that.
1988 Thunderbird Sport

aftermarket amp, premium sound

Reply #2
The orange/light blue wire coming out of the stereo turns on the EQ and the amp in the trunk. If you mount your amp in the trunk you can tap right into the wire back there at the factory premium sound amp (in addition, you can tap into the low-level speaker wires coming from the EQ back there wires as well). This probably goes without saying, but you'll need to run a power wire back there - the stock P.S. wire is not thick enough to power any decent sized amp.

If you don't have an EVTM I've got the premium wiring diagram here:

http://www.foxthundercats.com/tech/wiringdiagrams/8588premiumweq.pdf
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

aftermarket amp, premium sound

Reply #3
Yeah but it would be eazier to use the speaker leads to flip a relay. The relay would be the switch that flips to turn the amp on. The speaker + should be used to trigger the realy. Then tap into the amp power led to feed to the relay that feeds the signal to the remote turn on spot on the amp. Eazy as pie. So to speak.
84 Turbo coupe 2.3T Modded with 88 upper and lower intake, 88 injectors, E6 manifold, T3-4 AR.60 turbo, 31X12X3 FMIC, Homemade MBC , Greddy knock off BPV.
4 eyes see better than 2! 
Da Bird!

FreeBird

aftermarket amp, premium sound

Reply #4
And the winner of "Worst suggestion for electrical wiring" is...

Using the speaker leads to flip a relay would be a huge mistake. For one thing, speakers don't really have a (+) - they operate on alternating current that constantly varies in frequency and amplitude, which is how you get different volumes and sounds (the voltage rapidly changing direction is what changes the magnetic field in the voice coil, which moves the speaker cone). Speakers are marked (+) and (-), but this is solely for "Phasing" the speakers - making sure they're all wired the same way. Speakers out of phase will actually cancel each other out, because as one is "compressing" sound waves the other is doing the opposite.

Using the speaker lead to flip a relay would result in the relay not coming on at all at low volumes, then buzzing at mid volumes as the alternating current constantly turns the relay on and off (and as the voltage raises and drops), then melting it at high volumes as voltage spikes WAY past 12 volts. The relay constantly turning on and off (buzzing) would in turn produce voltage spikes that would destroy both the amplifier and the head unit. A relay can actually produce voltage spikes in the hundreds or thousands of volts, like an ignition coil - for a free demonstration, take your horn button off and touch the horn wire to the bolt that holds the steering wheel on. Be sure to hold the wire by the metal conductor, and for best results, rapidly make and break the connection several times. Then try to find the fingers you've just blown off (well, you won't really blow them off, but it'll feel like you did).

The long and short of it: Never use speaker leads for anything but speakers.
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

aftermarket amp, premium sound

Reply #5
I've seen it done that way several times with no ill effects.
84 Turbo coupe 2.3T Modded with 88 upper and lower intake, 88 injectors, E6 manifold, T3-4 AR.60 turbo, 31X12X3 FMIC, Homemade MBC , Greddy knock off BPV.
4 eyes see better than 2! 
Da Bird!

FreeBird

 

aftermarket amp, premium sound

Reply #6
I've seen people driving drunk several times with no ill effects too...
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣