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Topic: Same Old Car, Same old problem. (Read 1960 times) previous topic - next topic

Same Old Car, Same old problem.

Well guys, I figured I would do everything in my power to fix the problems with my car but I am absolutely at my wits end right now when it comes to this Air Conditioning problem. I figured getting a Non-Broken Compressor would solve my problems, it didn't.

The same thing keeps happening. I start the car, I turn on the Air Conditioning, the Compressor kicks in. Everythings fine until the Temp Guage gets to just a little under halfway. The Engine starts missing. I can be driving 55 and I can see the tach needle drop over and over again. And, I can feel the engine recoil. It's even worse when I'm driving slower, and god forbid I get stuck at a red light. Many times the missing gets so bad, the engine dies. I have to restart the car and keep the air off for fear of embarrassing myself any further.

Anyway, what's even more perplexing is that once the car warms up even more, and the temp guage reads a little over the Half-Mark, the engine sputtering problems goes away!

I got autozone to check the codes. Nothing worth mentioning. No problems. Now, I can understand the engine losing some performance with the Air on, but sputtering and sometimes dying? And only during a certain Temperature range?

Any Ideas guys? I don't know what I should be checking.
<---One must always remember to Remain cool, calm and collected when dealing with your fellow man, especially on the Internet....
-DMC24guy
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Same Old Car, Same old problem.

Reply #1
Isn't there a device somewhere that bumps up the idle once the A/C compressor is on, to compensate for the added load?  I'm not sure what it's called and I haven't read the backstory on this, but it's my only thought.

Same Old Car, Same old problem.

Reply #2
Does the A/C stay cold even when missing?  Have you replaced the orfice tube in the system(in line filter) ?




SCT Tuned by Me(Greg@SpeedyDyno.com)

E.T. 10.28 @ 136.5 MPH 1/4 mile: List of Mods; 351 EFI, AFR heads,AOD,Rousch 13in frt brakes,11in rear brakes, AirRide Tech air ride system, Sub frame connetors,2400 RPM stall, 3.50,BBK shorties,T62PT Turbos  air to air intercooled, Home built kit.
Car weights 3705lbs without driver:burnout:

Same Old Car, Same old problem.

Reply #3
Yes, the A/C always stays cold. No, I have not changed any "Orfice" tube. Also, I don't know of any device that bumps the idle up when the Air comes on.

Again, this ONLY happens when the air is on, and only during a certain temperature range.
<---One must always remember to Remain cool, calm and collected when dealing with your fellow man, especially on the Internet....
-DMC24guy
[/SIZE]

Same Old Car, Same old problem.

Reply #4
Quote from: DMC24guy
Engine starts missing. I can be driving 55 and I can see the tach needle drop over and over again. And, I can feel the engine recoil. It's even worse when I'm driving slower, and god forbid I get stuck at a red light. Many times the missing gets so bad, the engine dies. I have to restart the car and keep the air off for fear of embarrassing myself any further.

Anyway, what's even more perplexing is that once the car warms up even more, and the temp guage reads a little over the Half-Mark, the engine sputtering problems goes away!


The tach needle is the give away... You're loosing iginition.... And the problem is????


Flaky TFI module, I've had two differnt TCs do basically the same thing... Ran great cold, then got real $hitty running after they warmed up a few minutes. Then when good and hot they ran OK again... One of the cars was traded in because of the problem...(Talked with owner, thats what he told me) He was really pissed when I told him a old Motorcraft module from my junk box fixed it...

Both modules were Chinese replacements...

Same Old Car, Same old problem.

Reply #5
Well, the thing is, It's only when the Air Conditioning is running. When I don't use it, I don't encounter this problem.

I do understand how important the TFI is, due to my experience with it on my 87 LX V6, and I would be more than happy to replace it, but I want to make sure that is the problem. I do remember my Blue Thunderbird LX experiencing similar problems, and when I changed out the TFI, the problems went away. I'm just not sure about it this time around due to the fact this only occurs when the Air is running.

(Then again, now that I think about it, I first experienced my dying out problems on the v6 right after I had charged the AC system and started using it around town.)
<---One must always remember to Remain cool, calm and collected when dealing with your fellow man, especially on the Internet....
-DMC24guy
[/SIZE]

Same Old Car, Same old problem.

Reply #6
Quote
I got autozone to check the codes. Nothing worth mentioning. No problems.
So which is it, codes or no codes?
Death awaits you all with nasty, big, pointy teeth.

1988 5.0 Bird, mostly stock, partly not, now gone to T-Bird heaven.
1990 Volvo 740GL. 114 tire-shredding horsies, baby!

Same Old Car, Same old problem.

Reply #7
With the windows open, blower on high, selector on MAX - what are the high/low side pressures at idle and 1500 rpm. Ambient temperature is also needed.

Also, what procedure did you use to charge the system? Did you flush, add oil, replace any other parts, charge into a vacuum? How much R-134a did you add?

Same Old Car, Same old problem.

Reply #8
When purchasing a TFI module, am I going to be asking for the "Ignition Module". I've been to Autozone and Checker's websites and they don't specifically list "TFI".
<---One must always remember to Remain cool, calm and collected when dealing with your fellow man, especially on the Internet....
-DMC24guy
[/SIZE]

Same Old Car, Same old problem.

Reply #9
I know there is some form of a idle bump when the a/c is on. I turn on the air in my 84 TC and the idle rasies. Even when the A/c didn't work it would still a raise the idle.  Another thing to look into would be the fact that it happens in a certain temp range maybe the added load of a fan kickin on or the fan clutch fully engauged.
84 Turbo coupe 2.3T Modded with 88 upper and lower intake, 88 injectors, E6 manifold, T3-4 AR.60 turbo, 31X12X3 FMIC, Homemade MBC , Greddy knock off BPV.
4 eyes see better than 2! 
Da Bird!

FreeBird

Same Old Car, Same old problem.

Reply #10
in here>http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=2984

are some goodies , a whole bunch of other junk and the verification process you need to see if in fact the tfi is bad.  Dont forget about the pick up as well.

TFI's are wierd and when they go bad,, they break all the rules of common sense. the general rule in a gasoline engine is that you need only three things,,,fuel + air+ spark in order to make a car run.  With a partly bad or going bad TFI, its possible to have all three and still have an engine run wierd or not at all,,personal experience speaking.

tech buzz words that mean the same are
TFI= tfi, ignition module, distributor module, ignition control module
-- the older dizzy would have a vac advance
Pickup = pickup, stator, magnetic pickup, hull effect module
--the older dizzy would have points perse' or a duraspark system which works with centrifical force,sp?

Same Old Car, Same old problem.

Reply #11
In a perfect world, the iginition module(TFI)should set an erratic iginition code(I believe its 14). IF it has that code definatly repl the TFI. But the tach dropping is a give away it is iginition. I did have another TC that ran like  all the time with a butt load of codes(including erratic iginition). The module(TFI)did not fix it, wound up replacing the distributor(had one). Likely the pickup(PIP) inside the dist was bad.

Your problem is going to be one of 4 things in this order...

... TFI(ign module) on outside of dist, need special tool/socket to replace it. Also aval at the parts store....

... PIP(pickup inside the dist. sorta a pain to replace, have to remove and dissamble dist) A rebuilt dist will include a new TFI and PIP...

... or(not as likely as the first two)

... Coil

... wiring problem related to coil/distributor...

Same Old Car, Same old problem.

Reply #12
cfi engine?  i wasnt able to notice that by the sig.

Acutally to tell you the truth, my first gut feeling was your air charge temp sensor or the coolant temp sensor.  Since the both of these are just smiple thermal devices, it seems to me they would be associated with the symptom.

Just in case you did not know, the codes are supplied to you in two groups.  The first group (if any at all) would be the actual codes that appear right now real time with the engine running.  The next group will dump out to you but are a group of codes that have been stored in memory and collected over a long period of time.

you would have to have some sort of code present atleast in the continuous memory group i would think.

 

Same Old Car, Same old problem.

Reply #13
Quote from: jcassity
cfi engine?  i wasnt able to notice that by the sig.
.


OOPS... stepped on my dick on that one... :disappoin 

Was thinking he was talking about a '84 3.8/5.0 not a TC...

Sorry 'bout that ispd... Looks like some editing is in order...