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Topic: engine rebuilding.... (Read 844 times) previous topic - next topic

engine rebuilding....

well, its time to finally put the 5.0 up to its proper glory. its the next step to swapping in the DOHC anyway. i do have too be a little quick about it as i want to be swapped over and running by may. ive got a set of e7 heads and ho cam. how likely is it that you can get away with bolting everything back toger? the short block is good, runs great and has great compression, burns little or no oil and no smoke. i kind of wanted too stay away from pulling it out and fully rebuilding it. even though im not going too need the engine for long, i dont know what im going too do with it so i dont want too half ass it. what are the proper steps?
 
so far id expect this too be manditory:
 
check for ridge in the cyl. if ridge, bore 30 over otherwise re hone.
 
check the deck with a streight edge for flatness. if it looks good go with it otherwise get it decked.
 
is alighn honing the crank and cam races/bearings mandatory?
 
uh, other than bearings what else should i be thinking about. im looking too freshen it up, not make a race engine out of it.
 
heads....check for streight. if it looks good go with it otherwise deck it?
 
use new bolts only
 
new oil pump and pickup? timing set? valvetrain? piston rings? wrist pins?
 
basically...ive never been elbow deep into a 5.0. im not afraid too do it i just want a little guidance. not too much too them and if i get into trouble help shouldnt be too far away. i just want too know typically whats the norm. details on like what stroke (compression right?) too set the timing set and distributer at.
 
oh, and ive got a used 93 cobra cam id like too use. i have no idea what the spects ae but if anyone knows off hand weather or not it will intefere that would be nice too know for sure. i was gonna find out the hard way, while assembaling it. thanks in advance for all yer input...john
:america: 1988 Thunderbird Sport, Former 4.6 DOHC T56 conversion project.

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engine rebuilding....

Reply #1
Quote from: shame302

so far id expect this too be manditory:
 
check for ridge in the cyl. if ridge, bore 30 over otherwise re hone.
 
check the deck with a streight edge for flatness. if it looks good go with it otherwise get it decked.
 
is alighn honing the crank and cam races/bearings mandatory?



alighn honing is not mandatory.. consult with the machine shop doing the work.to see if it is right for you.
 
Quote from: shame302

uh, other than bearings what else should i be thinking about. im looking too freshen it up, not make a race engine out of it.
 
heads....check for streight. if it looks good go with it otherwise deck it??


I would have the heads surfaced.


 
Quote from: shame302
use new bolts only?


i would only replace worn items. remeber new rod bolts they will have to be resized.





 
Quote from: shame302
new oil pump and pickup? timing set? valvetrain? piston rings? wrist pins??


always. replace the oil pump ,timing chain, piston rings, have the valve springs checked, wrist pins will come with the new pistons.

 
Quote from: shame302
basically...ive never been elbow deep into a 5.0. im not afraid too do it i just want a little guidance. not too much too them and if i get into trouble help shouldnt be too far away. i just want too know typically whats the norm. details on like what stroke (compression right?) too set the timing set and distributer at



timing will be 10-14* base  around 32-36* fully advanced

 
Quote from: shame302
oh, and ive got a used 93 cobra cam id like too use. i have no idea what the spects ae but if anyone knows off hand weather or not it will intefere that would be nice too know for sure. i was gonna find out the hard way, while assembaling it. thanks in advance for all yer input...john



I would suggest picking up another camshaft. there are lots of good grinds out there and as long as you stay under .520 lift with 1.6 rockers you wont have to worry about Piston to valve clearance.
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Tips on Rebuild

Reply #2
I did the unpopular and seemingly stupid... I rebuilt my 3.8.  My biggest regret is not having the entire engine bay steam cleaned before starting. I was worried "oh...I might screw up electrical connection with high pressue" and thought I would clean as I worked. Now, if I had it to do again, I would carwash-blast it as much as I could hapily trading (unfounded - forum members, pls comment) electrical connection for avoiding cakes of grease and hours of cleanup.  Also, I paid the shop to dip the block... they convinced me that that was a cheap way to be sure oil gallies are clear and avoid future oiling problems.  Also, made it easy to spray paint block with primer and Ford Blue paint.  Good luck!

engine rebuilding....

Reply #3
Might be a good idea to pull the main caps and check out the bearings...

Hey thunderblunder, I did the same thing- told myself I'd clean all the oily gunk out of my engine bay once I had the engine out. Once I got the engine out and realized just how bad (and caked on) most of that gunk was, I said screw it and left it...the engine install time ended up taking me way longer than it should have anyway, due to me working on it by myself almost the whole time.

Garrett H.
'94 F250 XLT- 4x4, 5 speed, 7.3 IDI Turbo Diesel, 4" intake, 4" exhaust, 5" turnout stacks, manual hubs, etc.
'87 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
Engine, wheels, tires, etc!
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engine rebuilding....

Reply #4
"check for ridge in the cyl. if ridge, bore 30 over otherwise re hone."

you dont have to bore 30 over if there is a ridge, theres a certain tool called a ridge reamer, you can use that to shave down the ridge, and probably save some cash...

but when you rebuild, remember to check your ring clearance, your crank and journal out of round, your cam for out of round, and especialy check all parts for wear, cus if theres a single nick in eather the cam, crank shaft, or any of there barings, its not gona last long...