Skip to main content
Topic: Covering Rust Holes.... (Read 1053 times) previous topic - next topic

Covering Rust Holes....

Well, this year i am able to do the body reparations on my car, but some time ago i covered an hole , but the finished work was very bad. Well, i need some info about materials and tools, and methods too, to cover small and big rust holes. Thanks....
1985 Mercury Cougar V6
1989 F-200 V8
1996 Explorer V6
2001 F-150

Re: Covering Rust Holes....

Reply #1
eastwood magazine
"Real cars dont power the front wheels, they lift them"
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
1984 Mercury Cougar GS 5.0:cougarsmily: BBK Equal Length Shorties, BBK O/R X-Pipe, Magnaflow Magnapacks, Mustang GT Stainless Tailpipes, 18" Magnaflow Rolled Edge Tips. Turbo Coupe Hood, Mach 1 Chin Spoiler. 17"x9" Cobra R's, Falken Ziex 255/50s, and 245/45s.
1984 Ford Thunderbird 3.8L "Drag Queen"
2009 Dodge Ram 1500 Lone Star Edition 5.7L Hemi 400hp, lex DOD14M Magnaflow retro-fit ler kit

Re: Covering Rust Holes....

Reply #2
Method 1 : Fiberglass + bondo, good for smaller to mid sized holes. Stong and slightly flexible
Method 2 : Sheet metal + Rivits + Fiberglass + Bondo. Not the cleanest choice.
Method 3 : Sheet metal + Welding + hammers and dollys + minimal bondo.  Choice for car restoration, but takes more skill.

Other than your typical auto body repair manual you find at the auto shop, Carcraft zine once in awhile have short tutorials on autobody repair.

Re: Covering Rust Holes....

Reply #3
I perfer method 3 if ya plan on keeping it for as while
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
1974 maverick lsx powered turbo car SOLD
1973 maverick Tijuana Taxi Tribute
1957 chevy LSX Turbo project (race car)
Owner of Joe Dirt Fabrication

 

Re: Covering Rust Holes....

Reply #4
I've had to repair the bottom of the rear quarters (behind the wheels) on my car twice.

They were rusty when I got the car, but I didn't really know how bad until I got in there and really looked. Driv'ers side didn't seem too bad, passenger side had a pretty large hole. I did a quickie patch (tacked in some metal, bondo over top) to get the car on the road, less than a year later they were already rusting pretty bad around the outside edges of the repair.

When I pulled the car back out to drive it, I got into the passenger side again as it was looking the worst. Turned out it was way more rusted than what I originally thought. I ended up with a piece cut out at least 8" longx 3" tall in some places. I tried to clean out all the rust inside the fender as best I could and I also had to re-make a piece of the bottom. I sprayed undercoat all around the area inside the fender, especially along the bottom, and made some drain holes, and tacked a couple pieces of galvanized steel sheet in place and put some bondo over that, and smoothed it out and painted it. It's not perfect, but it looks decent and now 1+ year later it's still holding up pretty well. Part of the problem is the concave curvature of the bottom of the quarter there.

Now I just gotta do the driver's side over again. sigh.

Garrett H.
'94 F250 XLT- 4x4, 5 speed, 7.3 IDI Turbo Diesel, 4" intake, 4" exhaust, 5" turnout stacks, manual hubs, etc.
'87 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
Engine, wheels, tires, etc!
Exhaust sound clip
Another clip