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Topic: Newb here and boy I need help! (Read 1997 times) previous topic - next topic

Newb here and boy I need help!

I just picked up a '88 turbo coupe that was parked in 2006. Owner died and it sat. Last few days was spent putting in a new tank, pump and filter and it runs pretty well. It actually started with the old stuff with a "tick" of the key. I couldnt believe it. Put some fresh e-free gas in it and it was all over the ground. Hmm... Mustve had the tank well still holding enough to run.

The problem now is that the service fan will not run. The AC fan cycles with the compressor so thats good. The service fan runs fine when hot wired. Is there a fuse, fusible link or relay for this and where is it? Could it also be the temp switch in the system is bad and where is that? I have this issue and the fuel gage and ammeter on the dash doesnt work. Alternator is producing 14.2 VDC. I have a Hayes shop book that is useless. Please send help, or the cavalry! Thanks,  Bill in Two Rivers, Wi.

Newb here and boy I need help!

Reply #1
Integrated Relay control module.
This is what it looks like
[ATTACH=CONFIG]39724[/ATTACH]

It's guts can be found on page 65 of the EVTM link in my sig (page 67 of the PDF.  It's a big file, but I recommend you download a copy.

Newb here and boy I need help!

Reply #2
TFYK...Thanks for the pdf... Large, thats an understatement LOL. Its been going about 2 hours and is at 20%. Being a Ford guy this is all foreign to me. I was born om Model t's and spent many years racing Gm :A: body stuff. Right now my summer ime driver is a 1972 BUICK xgs; 455 with headers, cam an some misc. sundries. It runs good and I consider it a survivor.
  This little 2.3 with a 5 speed is a pooch until the turbo spools up; then it becomes a monster. Even Pat the wife, wants to learn how to drive a 5 speed. Patience is a virtue eh? Theres a unit mounted on the passenger side inner fender. Looks like a new ford replacement. Info on these cars is an anomaly.

Interior is mint and almost everything works. Just needs some TLC...Cloudy yellow headlights are enough to keep me busy. Be advised; Ill have a lot of questions. Thanks again, regards,  Bill in Tr

Newb here and boy I need help!

Reply #3
TFYK...Thanks for the pdf... Large, thats an understatement LOL. Its been going about 2 hours and is at 20%. Being a Ford guy this is all foreign to me. I was born om Model t's and spent many years racing Gm :A: body stuff. Right now my summer ime driver is a 1972 BUICK xgs; 455 with headers, cam an some misc. sundries. It runs good and I consider it a survivor.
  This little 2.3 with a 5 speed is a pooch until the turbo spools up; then it becomes a monster. Even Pat the wife, wants to learn how to drive a 5 speed. Patience is a virtue eh? Theres a unit mounted on the passenger side inner fender. Looks like a new ford replacement. Info on these cars is an anomaly.

Interior is mint and almost everything works. Just needs some TLC...Cloudy yellow headlights are enough to keep me busy. Be advised; Ill have a lot of questions. Thanks again, regards,  Bill in Tr

Newb here and boy I need help!

Reply #4
WOWEE!! Is the IRCM primary electro drive fan relay serviceable or does the entire module need to be replaced? The whole A.C. side and fuel relay all seem to function normally. I am gonna have a look today, but one of the mystery units around that very location has already been changed (looks new but that was done in 2006).
    I thank you and hope I can figure this out. This is the most comprehensive answer Ive found in two weeks of diligent searching!  Regards,  Bill in TR

Newb here and boy I need help!

Reply #5
It's not exactly serviceable. It can be pulled apart, and the relays desoldered and replaced if I remember correctly. If you're good with a soldering iron, it certainly can be fixed.

Another option is to set up your own sensor and relay setup, and not use the factory IRCM. I did that on a previous car and it worked great for me. I will probably do it again on my current car when I get to that point.
It's Gumby's fault.

Newb here and boy I need help!

Reply #6
I stole this image from another website so you can have an idea what you would be in for if you were to pull it apart.

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It's Gumby's fault.

Newb here and boy I need help!

Reply #7
Thanks 232CI... That pic give (an old school mechanic LOL) a better idea of what Im up against. My other Ford pal is 2000 miles away. I'm in Wi. and he's in Missoula, Mt. He suggested the car may not even be up to temp yet for the service fan to run. I thought they came on at 160F or after a shutdown for post-op cooling. Guess Ill hafta hit it with the IR gun. Any ideas what the parameters are? I didnt get that far in that PDF yet.
  Hafta do a Model t valve job on a pals car here today. Old flathead 4 banger.  I hope the size on these pics are good. I carry my camera on me and shoot lotsa this stuff. This shows the tomb robbery excavation last week. Sat since 2006, and after a cursory rinse.  Getting better every day!  Bill

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Newb here and boy I need help!

Reply #8
I have a '88 TC same color as yours.  Congrats on the new to you car.

It takes quite a bit of driving (about 1/2 hour in the morning) and then getting stuck in traffic for my car to warm up enough to turn the fan on.  I think it would be a good idea to check with the IR gun to see where you are temperature wise.  Might not be a problem to chase.

TheFoeYouKnow - thank you for the link!
1988 Thunderbird TC, 5spd
Stinger 3" single exhaust, Cone Filter, Adjustable Cam Pulley, Schneider roller cam, Walbro 255 lph, AEM Wideband O2
'93 Mustang Cobra replica wheels on 235/50R17

'21 F150 Powerboost
'17 Husqvarna TX300

Newb here and boy I need help!

Reply #9
Most cars won't spin up their electric fan until over 200F, some not until 220. I've got a 185F tstat, and when I setup my electric fan, I set it up to start high speed at 207F. It draws almost 40amps at full speed, so I don't want that load until it's needed. The more electrical load you put the alternator under, the more power it costs to operate, and the more power I'm spending on accessories, the less I have to put against the road, and the more fuel it costs to do anything at all. Besides, I drive the car into fall, so sometimes it's cold and I want good heat available.

Newb here and boy I need help!

Reply #10
I have never had a Turbo but from following post on this forum for many years, I am pretty sure the EEC self tests check some of the IRCM stuff.
Your car should have a MIL (Check engine) light. So you won't need a meter or test light.

1. Turn the A/C off.  Put the key in run (don't start).  under the hood, install the self test jumper.  watch the fans, see if they kick over. Give it a few minutes.
Leave the jumper on.

2. Get back in the driver's seat, turn the key off, wait ten seconds. turn key to run (don't start)
Watch the Check Engine blink and teach yourself to interpret the codes. IRCM codes are in the 80'S series of codes.

Repeat step 2 until you get the hang of it.
When you are done, take the jumper off.

Newb here and boy I need help!

Reply #11
Thanks Mikey! Should prove to be an interesting adventure! I did run the service fan off a battery charger and it took 10-11 amps, but then wired it to the battery while running at 14.2 VDC and thought the car was gonna launch on runway 190 Left. Spun up twice as fast. Guess I'm just gonna check it with the IR gun and drive it for a while. Probably oughta change the hoses tho. They look OK but have aged as well. It does have a check engine light that was on intermittently with the old tank, pump, and level sender. It may come on once in a while, but a tap on the throttle clears it. Im thinking 02 sensor as the exhaust system is pretty far gone from sitting.
  Started the valve job on my pals Ford  today... a 1926 at 20 horses. Needs a turbo LOL...  ws

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Newb here and boy I need help!

Reply #12
Just surprised that theres NO RUST on this guy, and most of the dirts' gone now.  Bought new in Georgia, then to Missouri and a year in Wisconsin and parked. Second owner kacked after a year with it. Whats anyone think its worth? I'll fess up later what I paid LOL...  ws

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Newb here and boy I need help!

Reply #13
The primary fan should turn on at 210 degrees, and back off at below 190 degrees. The secondary fan will turn on at 220 degrees, and back off around 200 degrees.

If you turn your A/C on, it should automatically turn on your primary fan.

The value is really hard to take a stab at. Some very nice cars have sold for 1500 up to 6000. Some REALLY nice ones have sold for 8000. Values will fluctuate based on so many factors. For instance, the vast majority hate the red leather interior. That will hurt value. Myself, I love the red leather as long as it's not on a red or blue car. I would be willing to spend more for a nice red leather than almost anyone else would be.
It's Gumby's fault.