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Topic: Passenger window motor and door lock solenoid stopped working at the same time (Read 1703 times) previous topic - next topic

Passenger window motor and door lock solenoid stopped working at the same time

I'm not sure how this wiring works.  Yesterday everything was working.  Today both the passenger window motor and the passenger lock solenoid quit at the same time.  Should I be looking for a blown fuse or broken wire?
'88 Bird 5.0, TW 170s, HO cam, Scorpion rockers, Explorer intake 70mm TB/EGR, MAF conversion, 24# injectors, 8.8 3.73 disc rear end swap, console swap, leather seats, 11" front discs, 15-1 rack, TC springs all around, x-pipe, BBK headers,  welded sub-frame, unlocked digital speedo.

Passenger window motor and door lock solenoid stopped working at the same time

Reply #1
they are separate circuits,, oddly your driver door lock still works.
im thinking starting with the passanger door.

these are on circuit breakers , silver canisters on your fuse box

use the below EVTMs for reference

im also thinking of the moon gear window regulator inside the door ,, its cut the harness

if the wiring is getting grounded constant, the circuit breakers will over heat and stop power delivery ,, thats not the case here because the driver side works

im thinking the wiring is cut open,,, should be obvious when you take off the door panel.

Passenger window motor and door lock solenoid stopped working at the same time

Reply #2
Sounds like a broken ground wire within the door.
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Passenger window motor and door lock solenoid stopped working at the same time

Reply #3
thanks guys.  I'll take a look.
'88 Bird 5.0, TW 170s, HO cam, Scorpion rockers, Explorer intake 70mm TB/EGR, MAF conversion, 24# injectors, 8.8 3.73 disc rear end swap, console swap, leather seats, 11" front discs, 15-1 rack, TC springs all around, x-pipe, BBK headers,  welded sub-frame, unlocked digital speedo.

Passenger window motor and door lock solenoid stopped working at the same time

Reply #4
So it appears that the door solenoid issue is coincidental.  I took off the panel and the solenoid was trying to move the lock but there was too much friction.  I don't know if this is correct or not, but the whole solenoid mechanism just kind of floats and moves all around.  I expected it to be mounted firmly. 

The window motor is another matter.  It doesn't appear that the wire is cut and since the driver motor works well, I guess I need a new motor.  Is there an easy way to get it out?  Should I leave the gear alone and somehow just remove and replace the motor?  Is there a write up on that?  It's hard to see in there how the motor is attached.
'88 Bird 5.0, TW 170s, HO cam, Scorpion rockers, Explorer intake 70mm TB/EGR, MAF conversion, 24# injectors, 8.8 3.73 disc rear end swap, console swap, leather seats, 11" front discs, 15-1 rack, TC springs all around, x-pipe, BBK headers,  welded sub-frame, unlocked digital speedo.

Passenger window motor and door lock solenoid stopped working at the same time

Reply #5
Quote from: marianadeeps;458155
I don't know if this is correct or not, but the whole solenoid mechanism just kind of floats and moves all around.  I expected it to be mounted firmly. 

Yup.  It's SUPPOSED to be on a mount that is riveted to the door itself. 

This video will give a good idea of how it's mounted. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWoB7Uhxd9c

As stated in the video, you DO NOT have to pop the rivet out in most cases.  You can pop the actuator out of the mount and put the new one in the old mount that is riveted to the door.  It's held in by 2 rubber grommets.  They do pop off the mounts on occasion.  THe one on my Lincoln had a zip tie on one side instead of the grommet as installed prior to me owning the car.  That was an interesting find....

As far as the window motor, I've never actually had one go bad in one of these cars believe it or not.  From what I can tell they are very similar to the ones in the Lincoln Mark VII which I've changed a few of.  You should have no problem changing it out without removing the gear.  You'll need a 5/8" drill bit or holesaw attachment for a drill to drill out 3 holes in the inner door panel to access the mounting bolts.
-- 05 Mustang GT-Whipplecharged !!
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Passenger window motor and door lock solenoid stopped working at the same time

Reply #6
Mounting is similar if not the same as a Mark VII. The Mark VIIs use a different style motor than the 87-88 Thunderbird/Cougars.

I've yet (knock on wood) to have either a window motor or door lock actuator fail on my Thunderbird in 14 years of ownership. Now when I had my Mark VII I changed out both window motors (driver side twice) and the door lock actuators.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

Passenger window motor and door lock solenoid stopped working at the same time

Reply #7
Thanks for the great info.  I think I'll hit the junkyard and practice the motor and solenoid removal before doing it on my car.
'88 Bird 5.0, TW 170s, HO cam, Scorpion rockers, Explorer intake 70mm TB/EGR, MAF conversion, 24# injectors, 8.8 3.73 disc rear end swap, console swap, leather seats, 11" front discs, 15-1 rack, TC springs all around, x-pipe, BBK headers,  welded sub-frame, unlocked digital speedo.

 

Passenger window motor and door lock solenoid stopped working at the same time

Reply #8
It was a lot easier than I thought.  Taking the panel off,  you already have access to three 5/16 screws that hold the motor in place.  Just take the speaker out and disconnect the plug.  You then unscrew the screws and take the motor out through the speaker hole. The only slightly tricky part is lining up the new motor gear with the window track gear -- just twist around a little until it comes forward into place.  Then align the screw holes and install.  Not bad at all.  Thanks for the assistance.
'88 Bird 5.0, TW 170s, HO cam, Scorpion rockers, Explorer intake 70mm TB/EGR, MAF conversion, 24# injectors, 8.8 3.73 disc rear end swap, console swap, leather seats, 11" front discs, 15-1 rack, TC springs all around, x-pipe, BBK headers,  welded sub-frame, unlocked digital speedo.