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Topic: bleeding the master cylinder? (Read 13369 times) previous topic - next topic

bleeding the master cylinder?

Reply #45
I installed the Cobra MC on my 87, and replaced the factory prop valve, with an adjustable prop valve.... like night and day stopping now... I will do the same on the vert, plus add the booster...it stops ok right now, but theres always room for improvement seeing it has a 5 lug swap on it too
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***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
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5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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bleeding the master cylinder?

Reply #46
Quote from: daminc;448347
I think I'm gonna try the old school hold the pedal down method this time...I already gravity bled, and suction bled them before the MC change...

I never do it any other way.
to bleed I use a machete

pump up the brake, while holding pressure..........then......
put the blade down on the pedal
tilt the steering wheel all the way down
now bend the machete till the handle is under the lowest part of the steering wheel and walk away.
loosen bleeder and the machete pushes brake pedal down and holds it there... acts like another person.

wash rinse and repeat

protect pedal with something under the blade

bleeding the master cylinder?

Reply #47
i do the same thing but have a small crowbar that will fit between the pedal and the seat
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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bleeding the master cylinder?

Reply #48
I just got that $30 pneumatic bleeder from harbor freight. Woot woot
1988 Mercury cougar XR7- 302 bored .030 over, gt40p heads, F303, AlexsParts spring and seal kit, explorer upper and lower intake, 70mm tb, maf conversion, 75mm maf, fenderwell cai, 24 lb injectors, T5 conversion, bbk h pipe, Slp lm, 3.73 rear, 4 wheel disc conversion, 5 lug conversion. :D :D

bleeding the master cylinder?

Reply #49
Quote from: jcassity;449036
I never do it any other way.
to bleed I use a machete

pump up the brake, while holding pressure..........then......
put the blade down on the pedal
tilt the steering wheel all the way down
now bend the machete till the handle is under the lowest part of the steering wheel and walk away.
loosen bleeder and the machete pushes brake pedal down and holds it there... acts like another person.

wash rinse and repeat

protect pedal with something under the blade

Machete? I use a big wooden dowel. Less chance of me cutting something in the car ;)
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

 

bleeding the master cylinder?

Reply #50
lol... I was wondering who else caught the machete comment
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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