Cleaning a block..

Topic: Cleaning a block.. (Read 2681 times) previous topic - next topic

Cleaning a block..

December 17, 2014, 09:23:25 AM

What's the best way to clean a shortblock, while on the stand, but missing the intake and heads?

I'd prefer something that works well in the cold, as my big kerosene heater is on the fritz....it works, but stops every half hour or so and needs to have the nozzle blown out. Thinking I need to pull the fuel hose and put a screen on the end..

And also, taking my P heads in today to get a valve job and the TFS springs put on.

Maybe by spring this thing will be ready to drive. Still have some other work to do, as well get a mass meter and some 24# injectors, other than that, it's about there.

Cleaning a block..

Reply #1 – December 17, 2014, 01:19:13 PM

i would use a case of brake clean, shop solve, ect.

Cleaning a block..

Reply #2 – December 17, 2014, 05:19:10 PM

Ez off oven cleaner works great. Don't get it on any aluminum. Make sure you rinse it properly also.

Cleaning a block..

Reply #3 – December 17, 2014, 06:40:48 PM

HOT Soap and water is how we do it. Then blow it completely dry

Cleaning a block..

Reply #4 – December 17, 2014, 08:24:06 PM

Anything that freezes is likely out of the question, unless I get my heater to work reliably for a coupe hours, nonstop.

I powerwashed it this past summer before I started to take it apart...it was greasy as the fry basket at the local gas n' grub...got a lot of it, but want to be able to paint it.

I might try the oven cleaner...it's supposed to snow tonight, and freeze rain in the morning. Need to pick up a sack of dog food, so I may grab a can or three of oven cleaner and get a new bristle brush while I'm in town.
If it's right at or within a few degrees of the freezing point tomorrow, I'll go that route...mostly going to focus on the block itself...already have a pan from another 5.0 blasted and painted and ready to go.

This block is "low mileage" has about 45,000 and other than the valve cover gaskets being leakers, it's a good engine, had good compression on all cyls, and was adult owned..it was in the '89 LX convertible I parted out earlier this year.

Cleaning a block..

Reply #5 – December 17, 2014, 08:35:23 PM

I second what jandmmustangs said about the oven cleaner, and also about getting it all off. That stuff is quite corrosive...

Cleaning a block..

Reply #6 – December 17, 2014, 08:49:42 PM

Oven cleaner will strip paint and burn your hands. Just take care with it.

Cleaning a block..

Reply #7 – December 18, 2014, 09:34:35 PM

I like the idea of hot tanking

never had the oven cleaner offer me an opportunity because of its corrosive nature.
with a block out you would need access to a running pressure washer, if the sun is out maybe you can wash it off in your driveway right away.

to be honest, taking out the freeze plugs also is going to reveal a lot of garbage in the water chambers.

Cleaning a block..

Reply #8 – December 18, 2014, 09:46:10 PM

Yeah, I'm not getting too carried away with this engine..I'll either keep the bottom end stock, as-is for now, just do the basic bolt on stuff, and then next spring take one of my other block to the shop for the overbore and possible stroker setup...OR, I may sell the other car and just go right out the gate with a 351 block and stroke it instead. Probably make a little more torque with a lot more reliability than the 5.0 anyway.

I've got 3 other blocks, plus one complete HO engine to pick from, though I KNOW the complete motor will need bored at the least.

Cleaning a block..

Reply #9 – December 21, 2014, 12:09:11 PM

I have done the oven cleaner and it works great. Get a roll of duct tape and some heavy mill plastic (you can get 3.5 mil at Home Depot or the like) and tape the top side of the short block up to cover the pistons and lifter valley. Hopefully you still have the water pump bolted up but if not just tape that up as well. From there its spray on the oven cleaner, wait 15 or so minutes, brush like crazy, wash off, and repeat if necessary. This stuff is nasty so do not wear anything you do not want jacked up.

When you are done get some WD40 and liberally coat the cylinder walls and mating surface for the cylinder heads. This will keep rust from flashing up on the surfaces. I usually rotate the motor by hand and rub down each cylinder when the piston is at BDC. This is good for a week or so at the most so get that motor buttoned back up. When you start it up run it for a few minutes and then change the filter and add a quart just to make sure you get all the out and then do as you normally do for a break in like a new motor.

One other suggestion is to replace the oil pump when you swap oil pans as it is good insurance.

Darren

Cleaning a block..

Reply #10 – December 21, 2014, 02:37:07 PM

Goggles! Oven cleaner works great, but if you get a splash of that in your eye when rinsing it off, you are in big trouble! Darren's instructions is exactly how I do it. Thick rubber gloves and goggles are a must! The oven cleaner tends to leave a little bit of a slimy film afterwards, so just go over it with a little soap and water. Nothing major, just a little bit of dish soap and a rag will do the trick. If you have access to shop air, blow it dry. be sure to hit the bolt holes, nooks, and crannys. That will take any worry of freezing water. The parts that you don't want wet at all should be taped off like Darren suggested, and WD-40 is your best bet for cleaning and protecting these parts.