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Topic: Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams?? (Read 8745 times) previous topic - next topic

Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams??

Reply #30
Jay the alternator does not care what car it is on what device it is wired to or for that matter it does not even have to be on a car. I have seen them on WOOD CHIPPERS. As the matter of fact i have converted many a Wood chipper Fork lifts and refrigeration units  log splitter cement mixer large generators with either Ford or GM alternators. So as i said the 3G needs only One wire to actually work just as GM and even Chrysler units.  As long as the regulator is powered up with 12V and that is punching A which serves 2 purposes. It allows a minute amount of current to flow through the regulator to stabilize the regulator when the car is not running and the key is in your pocket. And it powers it up. The regulator is powered up from punching A. It is an electronic circuit and needs power. The S terminal is used to control the alternator output or how much it should charge. The I terminal wakes up the regulator and commands the electronics to start charging. By putting key run battery or a lamp on it in series with the key and a parallel resistance across the lamp. The resister increases the charge rate. Example GM diesels used to have 2 lamps in parallel. One on the dash and one behind the dash in a sealed capsule. The resister is used in case the lamp goes open or blows out. This provides a battery signal so the alt will still charge if the lamp is out. Some chevies do not have them and when it blows the alternator will not charge unless it is reved above 4000 RPM'S.  (Regulator needs light off voltage) Big recall in the late seventies because the lead was eliminated on some models. It also doubles as the Indicator lamp on the dash. How that works is simple There is battery on one side of the lamp from the ignition switch the I terminal provides a ground before it starts charging after it sees a stator voltage. Then it puts the light out by applying battery to the lamp lead. battery on both sides of the lamp it wont light. That is why sometimes when a regulator or stator diode goes bad the lamp will glow dimly. I have also rebuilt numerous units in he old days before commercially rebuilt units were available. I actually made a BENCH to test them off the car. Just as any re-builder does when re manufacturing or rebuilding alternators.  have a great day guys

NOTE the wiring is not different than any other hook up. What is different is how the unit is wired and the complications done because people do not know how they work. And use the factory harness to pick up all required leads, NOT NECESSARY. Other than indicator lamp lead for dash light. Once again how do you think ONE WIRE ALTERNATORS WORK. Everything is wired INTERNALLY. Also on cars like limousines that have 3G alternators a slave relay is used for isolation. Some are done with relays not diodes. The S terminal controls the relays winding. If the car is not running the relay drops out the cranking battery. When the relay sees battery from the S terminal alt putting out it closes it and charges both.

Note the 3G is an external regulator unit that is why it has the extra 2 leads A&S. GM for example only has 2 leads (heavy battery and I lead for the lamp)because the A&S are internally wired to the regulator. Ford 3G is not an internal regulator and there fore requires external hook up of those leads. For non complicated change overs just use a ONE wire 3 g on a TC and call it a DAY
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams??

Reply #31
Tom, Please explain how the regulator S terminal is controlling the alternator output in the 87 turbo diagram below.



Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams??

Reply #34
I used bullet plug connectors rated for 50amps continous load on my cars alt when I replaced it with a stock replacement. It melted two of the three. There is no way a 130amp alt is fine with a single 10 guage wire. I have model air plane batteries that put out 62 amps peak for 15 seconds. The come with 10 guage wire and are only 3" long. The connectors are rated for 75 amps and I burn them up too.

If you need to upgrade from a stock alt, you need to upgrade wire as well.

Btw, my most powerful model airplane motor peaks at 52 amps... the ones I burn battery connectors up with are only 20-30 amps
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams??

Reply #35
A car is not a model plane. MAN this is ridiculous. Once again think about what you are saying 2 10,Amp wires in parallel. = a number 8 AWG

For the final time read this direct from Powerhouse

Four wires connect the alternator to the rest of the charging system.

B is the alternator output wire that supplies current to the battery.

IG is the ignition input that turns on the alternator/regulator assembly.

S is used by the regulator to monitor charging voltage at the battery.

L is the wire the regulator uses to ground the charge warning lamp
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams??

Reply #36
@ softtuch clearly that print is wrong. So using the print you posted one of the 3 Phase legs goes NOWHERE. That is IMPOSSIBLE!!!! If the print is correct that alternator would put out only 2/3 of its capability. One phase missing . HELLOW!! Have a great night folks. Thanks tom

Leese naville explination



Alternator Wiring Instruction

On most heavy trucks you will find one, two or three wires going to the alternator.
Below we will explain how to identify these wires and connect the alternator to your
vehicle.
One wire:

A jumper wire is supplied to connect the
alternator (S) terminal to the (B+) terminal.
Refer to Fig 1 for proper wiring. If vehicle has an
ignition wire, it does not need to be connected
to the alternator. Insulate and secure to prevent
shorting.
Two wire:
Alternators that have two wires
connected to them are self excite. The two wires
connected to the alternators are the positive and
negative cables. When connecting our alternators
use Fig 2 to properly connect these alternators. A
jumper wire is supplied to connect the alternator
(S) terminal to the (B+) terminal.
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams??

Reply #37
For your reading pleasure.

Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams??

Reply #38
Tom, I understand what you are saying, seriously I do but I simply am more interested in your success using your "one size fits all" wiring application.

your picture of the alternator & pig tails is not suitable for the 2.3, 3.8 and 5.0 as far as we know and from my side of the fence, you are doing it the same on all fords.
Everyone else must have a reason for doing it different for the 2.3L.  so I ask again, does your pigtail photograph apply to all 3 mid 80's ford engines?

to softtouch's question, and his comments I agree and the diagram he posted is spot on for accuracy "as-engineered" "as-built" by ford.

 

Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams??

Reply #39
Quote from: TOM Renzo;438453

NOTE . And use the factory harness to pick up all required leads, NOT NECESSARY.

ok,, I get it now,, I think I just found the problem with the thread.

tom,
You are basing your installation on the premise that we must know that  you "are not" using the oem harness and that you are doing home run wiring outside of the factory supplied wiring when convenient or applicable to your project.
Having said that, I can take your word for it, I have not taken a 3g down that path yet so if it works like your doing it then I can understand why you stick with what you know.
We are discussing the integration of a 3G "using the oem harness and to include upgrade of the charge lead+fuse.

care to comment on this?,, it may clear up what you are explaining because this is a very simple swap I agree, but I still say the 2.3 is a fickle  that each person should refer our posted instructions in the Greatest hits section if they want to use their factory wiring.
If they decided to jump around factory wiring then that is outside the scope of this topic.