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Topic: Rear main seal. Please help. (Read 2749 times) previous topic - next topic

Rear main seal. Please help.

So my car has been leaking oil pretty badly. 2 mechanics said my oil pan gasket was leaking. So i just had that fixed. Turns out that isn't the problem. I am finding oil leaking from the bell housing. There are blotches on the metal where it looks like oil over time has seeping through over time. I don't know what else it could be... Now I remember reading many years ago that there aren't any replacement seals for that anymore???
1987 turbo coupe 5speed: Boport stage 3 head/2.5 cam , Precision stage 3 50trim .63 turbo, Tial 38mm wastegate, Jangus gutted/ported intake manifolds, 60mm tb, Jangus open dumptube, Jangus 3" elbow, Perrin boost controller,Esslinger adjustable cam pulley, Esslinger small crank pulley, stinger FMI, RFL BOV, Spec stage 3 clutch, B&M short throw, 140 speedo, Walbo 255lph, BBK fpr, 3G alternator, ARP studs.  Be faster... :poke:

Rear main seal. Please help.

Reply #1 –
Check to make sure your pcv (positive crankcase ventilation) system is operating properly. An old engine with a lot of blowby due to worn rings needs to be able to get rid of the pressure. The weakest link is the usually the rear main seal. At least I think that is the situation for 302's but maybe it applies to 2.3t's too.
home ported E7's, HO intake, 93 Tbird cam, 65mm tb, Shorties, dynomax lers, TC 3.73 rear, Mach 1 springs, Bauman shiftkit, epoxy mod, SD, 3G alt, black magic fan

Rear main seal. Please help.

Reply #2 –
Rear mains are still available. I have 6 in stock.
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Rear main seal. Please help.

Reply #3 –
oh yeah, still available.

the only problem,,,,,,,  and its a pretty long write up but you can do it without pulling the motor,,,,,,,,,,,,, it really requires a motor pull or at least partial pull without the pan on.

the seal is a "just perfect fit", any minor dings or partial ss will cause it to leak again.

Rear main seal. Please help.

Reply #4 –
NO JAY the turbo coupe 2.3 just requires the Tranny to be pulled. And the 5.0 also has a tap in seal behind the flywheel or flex plate. No need to remove the pan whatsoever. replacing it is a piece of CAKE.
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Rear main seal. Please help.

Reply #5 –
I was being realistic,, and the seal itself sets inside a machined out groove.  I changed one using the tap on method and it worked but ... it certainly cant be good for the outer part of the seal.

the back yard method.........

-drop drive shaft, remove starter, remove lower trans dust cover
-disconnect shifting linkages for aod / stick or other items that will not let the trans slide backwards
-mark your flywheel to oil pan, this will let you position it right when putting it back on,, can do the same for flywheel to converter , flywheel only goes on one way.
-dial the crank and remove the converter to flywheel nuts x 4
-pry bar the converter back towards the rear of the car as far as it will go (stick setups skip past aod stuff)
-remove rear trans mount and replace with a wood block
-with fender washer and drywall screw set x 2, secure 1'' tall wood block to trans cross member, trans just sits on the wood block
-remove bell housing bolts, replace lower left and right with long bolt
-at some point remove trans dip stick tube cause its profile is too close to the fire wall to proceed
-ratchet strap is added to rear of car and tail shaft of transmission, just crank the trans backwards using your wood block and your long bolts as guides.
-separate the trans from the block about 6'' or as much as you can
-with your crank pry bar wedged to the floor / ground remove the flywheel to crank bolts and drop the flywheel down
-stick shift people can now get their pressure plate / clutch out.
-you can now get to the seal, using various tools to pry it out I was able to do this once and it was not very fun.
-with lots of lube oil like sticky 85w140 or very molasses type assembly lube, you can position the new seal and tap it in place.

  look at the sharp edge along the rear main that you have to overcome to get the new seal in, the same for the block side.
the seals if damaged slightly will let oil leak so I suggest taking it really gentle tapping the new seal in place.

From my personal experience, I think I got lucky tapping a new one in on my bronco.. 351 with 5speed.. just my 2c but I hear its common place to just tap them in.
perhaps I am wrong but I did buy 3 seals for the one I did, I messed one up and learned from that one then tried again.  I learned if you use a small hand tools and a home made wooden 1/8'' dowel shaped like a screw driver on the end, you can gently get the seal started on the outer perimeter.  once it started, the ribs on the outside of the seal "should" pop right in one by one as you tap going around.

most of the time its not the "seal to block" contact that fails rather its the seal to crank that leaks.

Rear main seal. Please help.

Reply #6 –
Tapping it in is how it is DONE. I have change hundreds when they were recalled for the 5.0 in the early engines. As the matter of fact there is a tool but you can use the old seal as a driver and a flat plate app 1/4 inch thick works the best and that is perfectly acceptable. Have a great day guys

Note i use crazy glue around the outside permimiter of the seal as a precaution against leaks. Not silicone
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Rear main seal. Please help.

Reply #7 –
Quote from: TOM Renzo;438391
a flat plate app 1/4 inch thick works the best

I am pretty sure that's what I finally ended up doing.. something that would take the hit uniformly

Rear main seal. Please help.

Reply #8 –
Well I dont have the means to do all that work. What do you think the price should be to change that out?
1987 turbo coupe 5speed: Boport stage 3 head/2.5 cam , Precision stage 3 50trim .63 turbo, Tial 38mm wastegate, Jangus gutted/ported intake manifolds, 60mm tb, Jangus open dumptube, Jangus 3" elbow, Perrin boost controller,Esslinger adjustable cam pulley, Esslinger small crank pulley, stinger FMI, RFL BOV, Spec stage 3 clutch, B&M short throw, 140 speedo, Walbo 255lph, BBK fpr, 3G alternator, ARP studs.  Be faster... :poke:

Rear main seal. Please help.

Reply #9 –
I just had the rear main done on my '80, I had them do the rod/main bearings and oil pump while they were in there. I brought my own parts, and the labor was around $450. My guy is pretty reasonable though. I bet it would be higher at most other places.
CoogarXR : 1985 Cougar XR-7

Rear main seal. Please help.

Reply #10 –
Before tearing apart the car to get at the main seal, make sure the turbo oil return line or the base of the dip stick aren't the culprits.  There seem to be a lot of places for the 2.3L turbo to spring an oil leak...

If it is the rear main, I used the old seal (reversed) and  a deep 1 1/8" socket (IIRC) to tap the new seal in.

Rear main seal. Please help.

Reply #11 –
Okay I'll take a closer look at everything. I know the bottom 1/4 of the ball is dripping oil. I can see oil right where the bell meets the engine.
1987 turbo coupe 5speed: Boport stage 3 head/2.5 cam , Precision stage 3 50trim .63 turbo, Tial 38mm wastegate, Jangus gutted/ported intake manifolds, 60mm tb, Jangus open dumptube, Jangus 3" elbow, Perrin boost controller,Esslinger adjustable cam pulley, Esslinger small crank pulley, stinger FMI, RFL BOV, Spec stage 3 clutch, B&M short throw, 140 speedo, Walbo 255lph, BBK fpr, 3G alternator, ARP studs.  Be faster... :poke:
 

Rear main seal. Please help.

Reply #12 –
mine looked like rear main was leaking also, ended up being valve cover gaskets. even worse i tightened em up and they quit leaking.