cooling fans July 31, 2014, 09:08:30 PM i want to switch clutch fan to a Electric Fan . any ideas?86 tbird 5.0 Quote Selected
cooling fans Reply #1 – July 31, 2014, 09:33:27 PM Nope never use them. have a great evening guysJust kidding Quote Selected
cooling fans Reply #2 – August 01, 2014, 01:25:25 AM Step 1: Upgrade alternator and charging system. After that a fan, controller, relay, wiring, properly rated fuse, and some time to do it. Quote Selected
cooling fans Reply #3 – August 01, 2014, 03:14:43 AM X2.I plan on a 3g ford taurus alt and fan, and a volvo fan controller with a bmw temp sensor. Quote Selected
cooling fans Reply #4 – August 01, 2014, 08:32:02 AM I installed a 3G alternator, and a single unit Taurus fan. It's awesome. I also installed a three row aluminum radiator when my stock piece got a hole in it. Quote Selected
cooling fans Reply #5 – August 02, 2014, 10:05:54 AM I have the ford Contour dual fan and l hardly turn on the second fan. I've heard of people running the mark 8 fan its a big single Quote Selected
cooling fans Reply #6 – August 02, 2014, 10:46:34 AM Have any more info on the Volvo fan controller and Bmw Temp sensor Haystack? I've never heard of that option in any of the mustang forums. Most of their threads push $100 controllers. Of course I'm assuming these parts can be had from a junkyard. Quote Selected
cooling fans Reply #7 – August 02, 2014, 01:22:23 PM I made mine from a 2nd gen Fusion fan, with just a little tpuppies of the edges. I used 2 80A relays and a 60A fuse, I made it 2-speed using a low speed cooling fan resistor from an Escape, and I trigger the low speed from the AC clutch power, and the high speed with a 207 degree fan switch from an Escort GT, that I mounted in the top of my heater hose supply manifold at the front of my intake (9/16 drill and 3/8 NPT (IIRC) tap). Does the job perfectly. I've got a picture of it out of the vehicle somewhere, if I find it, I'll post it.Pic is before I trimmed the tabs off the sides and fit slip tabs to the bottom, also in the pic, I haven't installed the heavier Bosch relays yet and am still using standard Ford units for proof testing. I like to use OEM parts like this because 1. I have them sitting around and 2. They're usually extremely reliable. Quote Selected
cooling fans Reply #8 – August 03, 2014, 05:35:21 PM http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=265129i picked up a controller like this for $4 with the relays, a 30 amp fuse and the pigtail for $4.Haven't gotten around to testing it yet. Quote Selected
cooling fans Reply #9 – August 03, 2014, 06:52:05 PM Totally overkill. Buy a BOSCH 75 amp relay or two and a temp sensor and install it and forget about the controller garbage. Foes setup is good but using a single temp sender is risky. I always use 2 set at different temps. Foe you use low speed for AC only????? Why??? That is not the way i would do it. Why not wire in a temp switch for low and use High speed for Condenser cooling and secondary high heat as well. Makes more sense to me that way. have a great dayhttp://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/relays_0332002150.asp Quote Selected
cooling fans Reply #10 – August 03, 2014, 09:16:58 PM http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=200028Just read this whole thing, WOW!Just trying to figure out the best location for the BMW switch on our fords. I was thinking this http://www.hollisterroad.com/proddetail.asp?prod=SBF-Water-neckOR putting a t fitting in the lower radiator hose. Quote Selected
cooling fans Reply #11 – August 07, 2014, 05:16:01 AM I do it that way because it closely duplicates the way an OE setup works. The low speed moves enough air to keep the AC cold, and that's all I need it for. On low, I don't even hear it, so it's not obtrusive at all, and the high speed comes on about 30 degrees cooler than an OE setup just below boiling (if I ran straight water under no pressure as in what might be a worst-case scenario) but sufficiently above t-stat opening temp to make sure it isn't always on. My initial design had a blower resistor, but I couldn't get the thermal limiters to stand up to the heat made by that much current, so I switched to an OE low-speed cooling fan resistor, but positioned for better cooling than stock. I ran it this way all last year with no problems at all, and in the 2 weeks I've had it back on the road this summer, It's been flawless. Note: I added an early pic of the assembly to my post with the diagram. Quote Selected
cooling fans Reply #12 – August 07, 2014, 05:54:22 AM But OE normally runs higher temps. Example if you had a TC that setup would not work. The TC has to run bellow 190-195* at all times. I guess your condenser is huge to not need high speed cool;ing. To each his own as they say!! Have a great day guys. Quote Selected
cooling fans Reply #13 – August 07, 2014, 06:04:32 AM It's a pretty big fan and even at low it moves quite a lot of air. My high speed kicks at 207 and my thermostat is 180, I wouldn't say that's terribly high. Most OE fan switches kick at over 230. Quote Selected
cooling fans Reply #14 – August 07, 2014, 06:33:25 PM I plan to bypass the heatercore bypass hose and just run a rubber hose, get a 1/2-5/8" peice of pipe in the middle and drill and tap a bung in there since the bmw uses a metric thread.if you can weld, it would be easy to stick a properly threaded nut/bung on there and call it a day. Quote Selected