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Topic: $150 for an OEM heatercore!!!! There HAVE to be alternatives... (Read 1279 times) previous topic - next topic

$150 for an OEM heatercore!!!! There HAVE to be alternatives...

Just called the local dealership. That was the price I was told. Absolutely not. Is there any known mfr. that makes a decent piece?
I mean, if everything else is literally garbage...I guess I might because I do not want an unnecessary failure and to have to rip it apart again, but that's just beyond ridiculous.
1987 20th Anniversary Cougar, 302 "5.0" GT-40 heads (F3ZE '93 Cobra) and TMoss Ported H.O. intake, H.O. camshaft
2.5" Duals, no cats, Flowmaster 40s, Richmond 3.73s w/ Trac-Lok, maxed out Baumann shift kit, 3000 RPM Dirty Dog non-lock TC
Aside from the Mustang crinkle headers, still looks like it's only 150 HP...
1988 Black XR7 Trick Flow top end, Tremec 3550
1988 Black XR7 Procharger P600B intercooled, Edelbrock Performer non-RPM heads, GT40 intake AOD, 13 PSI @5000 RPM. 93 octane

$150 for an OEM heatercore!!!! There HAVE to be alternatives...

Reply #1 –
I think the dealer cores are not original ford. I seem to remember this as i do a hell of a lot of cores in these type cars. Basically ford obsoleted these cores years ago. Nothing wrong with a good aftermarket core . 50 Bucks will get you a good replacement core.  I use them all the time. have a great night guys
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

$150 for an OEM heatercore!!!! There HAVE to be alternatives...

Reply #2 –
Just put the restrictor in the feed line as the old Ford TSB directed.  You'll be fine.

**EDIT** According to the Rockauto website, they have the Motorcraft ones.....
Quote
MOTORCRAFT Part # HC5 {#E9LY18476A} HVAC Heater Core
   
   $75.79

The picture looks incorrect though..... I used a 1987 Thunderbird as the car in my lookup....
There are brass/copper and aluminum ones out there just like with radiators.  Go for the brass/copper whatever brand you go with.

Also thread from 2012 on the subject of where to get one:  http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?32887-Where-are-you-buying-your-heater-cores-at
-- 05 Mustang GT-Whipplecharged !!
--87 5.0 Trick Flow Heads & Intake - Custom Cam - Many other goodies...3100Lbs...Low12's!

$150 for an OEM heatercore!!!! There HAVE to be alternatives...

Reply #3 –
Stupid...decided to search eBay, there's several on there. Spent $90, got one claiming "original OEM, update as of 6/14, this unit carries a 10 year warranty". Yes you read that right.

As long as it's brass and copper, as previously stated, I'll probably be happy. I've seen pics of the OEM, and I'll compare it to the one I have. And you'd better believe when the old one comes out, I'm finding the leak and that bitch is gettin' soldered up where it's busted. At one point I noticed the longer neck moved around a bit, probably messed up the joint when I pulled a heater hose. Lesson learned. I'll brace 'em both up, too. Thanks for the suggestions though!
1987 20th Anniversary Cougar, 302 "5.0" GT-40 heads (F3ZE '93 Cobra) and TMoss Ported H.O. intake, H.O. camshaft
2.5" Duals, no cats, Flowmaster 40s, Richmond 3.73s w/ Trac-Lok, maxed out Baumann shift kit, 3000 RPM Dirty Dog non-lock TC
Aside from the Mustang crinkle headers, still looks like it's only 150 HP...
1988 Black XR7 Trick Flow top end, Tremec 3550
1988 Black XR7 Procharger P600B intercooled, Edelbrock Performer non-RPM heads, GT40 intake AOD, 13 PSI @5000 RPM. 93 octane

$150 for an OEM heatercore!!!! There HAVE to be alternatives...

Reply #4 –
You need not install the restrictor. It has nothing to do with core lifespan.  The motorcraft cores are good and are made by several different ford vendors. Napa units are brass and made in MEXICO and most all others are made in china. Spectra is made in CANADA as far as i know. As i posted Ford discontinued making those cores years ago. The motorcraft units are made for motorcraft by SPECTRA. They may say Motorcraft but they are made by a vendor. Unless you can find a NOS unit floating around somewhere. The replacement cores are good or even better than original units 99% of the time.  Also never pull a hose off a core. Always cut it then peel it off. That will normally save the busted nipple in the tank area. That is where they leak from mechanical damage. Rot is a different story and so is galvanic reaction between different metals. Always use a conditioner to reduce acid build up inside the cooling system. have a great day guys.

NOTE make sure you test it before installing it in the car. I have had many leak that were BRAND NEW!! Also if you use a non mixed antifreeze use distilled water. Normally we use FLEET CHARGE pre mixed 50/50 in every car we build. And use silocone hose to guard against mechanical vibration failure from engine vibration. Cheap hard heater hose is a killer. Heater hose must be flexible to guard against vibration failures. By the way there is nothing wrong with an ALUMINUM heater core. Hell i have not installed a brass radiator in a car in many years!!! if you really want to get NUTS ground the core to the chassis that is the best thing you can do.  just me. have a great evening guys.
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

$150 for an OEM heatercore!!!! There HAVE to be alternatives...

Reply #5 –
Yeah I've always wanted to "save" a heater hose...they always grab tight so I have that hope up long ago. Cutting the hose lengthwise takes care of it in an instant.
I do have the restrictor from the original core, took it out when I bypassed the core. Sitting on my bench. I got plenty of heat before, so I'll most likely put it back in.
1987 20th Anniversary Cougar, 302 "5.0" GT-40 heads (F3ZE '93 Cobra) and TMoss Ported H.O. intake, H.O. camshaft
2.5" Duals, no cats, Flowmaster 40s, Richmond 3.73s w/ Trac-Lok, maxed out Baumann shift kit, 3000 RPM Dirty Dog non-lock TC
Aside from the Mustang crinkle headers, still looks like it's only 150 HP...
1988 Black XR7 Trick Flow top end, Tremec 3550
1988 Black XR7 Procharger P600B intercooled, Edelbrock Performer non-RPM heads, GT40 intake AOD, 13 PSI @5000 RPM. 93 octane

$150 for an OEM heatercore!!!! There HAVE to be alternatives...

Reply #6 –
Quote from: V8Demon;436191
Just put the restrictor in the feed line as the old Ford TSB directed.  You'll be fine.

**EDIT** According to the Rockauto website, they have the Motorcraft ones.....


The picture looks incorrect though..... I used a 1987 Thunderbird as the car in my lookup....
There are brass/copper and aluminum ones out there just like with radiators.  Go for the brass/copper whatever brand you go with.

Also thread from 2012 on the subject of where to get one:  http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?32887-Where-are-you-buying-your-heater-cores-at


I bought a HC5 core from Rockauto.  I compared it to a NOS Motorcraft core my brother got from Green auto sales.  The HC5 was still brass/copper... but much cheaper built and much lighter in weight.  I would guess  near half weight.  Also the inlet pipe was soldiered to the case on the NOS piece, not on the HC5. 
Guessing the non soldiered piece would flex more and fail earlier.

I still put the HC5 in, and running it currently with no problems....  For the cost difference I would prob do it again :)

edit... I put a core restrictor in it also
Mike
 

$150 for an OEM heatercore!!!! There HAVE to be alternatives...

Reply #7 –
Well I can say I put in a AZ core about two years ago, I haven't had problems yet.

Yet.

.....YET.
--Steve
[thread=28690]1988 Cougar V6[/thread]
2012 F-150 3.7L
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