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Topic: Clay Bar VS Compound (Advice needed) (Read 2408 times) previous topic - next topic

Clay Bar VS Compound (Advice needed)

Hey Guys,

I need to do a proper detail of the paint on the Cougar now that the weather is favorable.  I am not a detailing expert by any means, and could use some solid advice.
Here is my situation:

1. 1987 Cougar XR-7 Original Paint  (Silver) Dark Silver below moldings with stripe kit
2. Clear is fully intact with no peel anywhere
3. Loads of oxidation and light scratches to the clear coat.
4. I did clay bar the upper fenders today to see what would come of that.  The bar took off dirt, but did not go deep into the surface and really attack the old oxidation/dirt. 

What else is needed to know?

Advice and thoughts are welcome.

Thanks,

David








1983 FORD THUNDERBIRD HERITAGE 5.0
2008 SAAB 9-7X AERO 6.0 (LS2) 1 0f 554 Made
2011 FORD FLEX SEL Family Hauler

Clay Bar VS Compound (Advice needed)

Reply #1
David, my experience with clay is to use it as a micro polish.  I will typically clay the car about twice a season...just to keep the surface smooth.  To remove oxidation usually requires a polish or rubbing compound and have skill with an orbital polisher.  I've taken my cars to a professional detailer in the past and pay the pro to remove that light oxidation with an orbital.  In the end worth every penny and the car looked like it had new paint.  Here's a good "how to" for clay bar use:  http://www.autogeek.net/detailing-clay-bar.html


Clay Bar VS Compound (Advice needed)

Reply #3
Yeah, clay is only for removing contaminants on the surface before you apply paint correction efforts. Paint correction is best done with an orbital, the proper pads, and compounds.

Twice a year I perform the following on my daily driver - not as much time spent as some people, but plenty for a daily driver's paint maintenance. Perform the following in an area without direct sunlight.
- Wash car with dish soap to remove everything possible
- Clay bar for a couple hours to remove contaminants. Disk soap/water mix works well for clay lubricant.
- Rinse off car
- Dry with microfiber towel
- (if car is neglected and this is the first time for these paint care steps, here is where you may use a medium cutting pad and more aggressive compound such as rubbing compound)
- Use a light cutting pad with polishing compound
- Use a wax pad for a highend/durable wax compound
- Wax off with bonnets and microfiber cloths

I'm also starting to use glass polish. During non-winter months, I wash the car weekly since weather allows this. Using the proper soap and mix ratio (follow the bottle's ratio), it won't strip all of the wax that I apply twice a year. I slack a bit in the winter. Basically, if the windshield is dirty, I wash the car. Using washer fluid just gets strong cleaner on your roof, which strips off the wax that was applied. It also makes the wipers perform the cleaning as it wipes across the dirt, wearing them out, and sliding grit around the windshield, causing the surface to become damaged.

Also don't leave bird/bat  on the paint. That stuff will eat through any products applied, and in some rare cases, it has eaten down to the sheet metal.
1988 Thunderbird Sport

Clay Bar VS Compound (Advice needed)

Reply #4
^ +1
This is great info here
I did all this to my TC and it really makes your car pop
I do have one suggestion though, use sealant instead of wax, I use Wolfgang paint sealant. It's like a wax on steroids and lasts much longer than any of your normal store bought waxes. And get good quality microfiber towels if you going to go through all the trouble of detailing your ride.
1987 T-Bird TC: 5-Spd, 5-lug conv., CHE Rear CAs, '04 Cobra wheels and 13" Brakes, Vac Assist conv: '93 Cobra BB/MC & Wilwood PV, Gutted/Knived Intakes, T3 turbo, RFE6 Mani, Stinger 3" Exhaust & Oil Feed, 255HP Walbro, Kirban AFPR, RR Cam, Esslinger Cam gear and Round Tooth Conv., Gillis Boost Valve, Speedway Dual Valve Spring,  K&N, 130a 3g Alt conv., 140mph Speedo
Running Better Than Ever :burnout:

Clay Bar VS Compound (Advice needed)

Reply #5
Quote from: Seek;432790
Yeah, clay is only for removing contaminants on the surface before you apply paint correction efforts. Paint correction is best done with an orbital, the proper pads, and compounds.

Twice a year I perform the following on my daily driver - not as much time spent as some people, but plenty for a daily driver's paint maintenance. Perform the following in an area without direct sunlight.
- Wash car with dish soap to remove everything possible
- Clay bar for a couple hours to remove contaminants. Disk soap/water mix works well for clay lubricant.
- Rinse off car
- Dry with microfiber towel
- (if car is neglected and this is the first time for these paint care steps, here is where you may use a medium cutting pad and more aggressive compound such as rubbing compound)
- Use a light cutting pad with polishing compound
- Use a wax pad for a highend/durable wax compound
- Wax off with bonnets and microfiber cloths

I'm also starting to use glass polish. During non-winter months, I wash the car weekly since weather allows this. Using the proper soap and mix ratio (follow the bottle's ratio), it won't strip all of the wax that I apply twice a year. I slack a bit in the winter. Basically, if the windshield is dirty, I wash the car. Using washer fluid just gets strong cleaner on your roof, which strips off the wax that was applied. It also makes the wipers perform the cleaning as it wipes across the dirt, wearing them out, and sliding grit around the windshield, causing the surface to become damaged.

Also don't leave bird/bat  on the paint. That stuff will eat through any products applied, and in some rare cases, it has eaten down to the sheet metal.

I do the same thing to my dd in the spring and fall. The only difference is I hand polish and wax. I always use paste wax as I've found it lasts longer than liquid wax.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

Clay Bar VS Compound (Advice needed)

Reply #6
hey david give my friend joe a call he works out a shop in lindenhurst and is who i trust with all my cars will have it looking better than new joe @getitdetailed inc 347-666-5948 tell him charlie casey sent you, he details bentlys lambos and ferraris and tns of nissan gtrs also does everyday cars too haha
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
'88 cougar 331 supercharged build in progress
'95 Blazer solid axle swapped 4X4- daily driver

Clay Bar VS Compound (Advice needed)

Reply #7
Quote from: supercharged88;432831
hey david give my friend joe a call he works out a shop in lindenhurst and is who i trust with all my cars will have it looking better than new joe @getitdetailed inc 347-666-5948 tell him charlie casey sent you, he details bentlys lambos and ferraris and tns of nissan gtrs also does everyday cars too haha

Thanks for the tip Charlie, good man.....








1983 FORD THUNDERBIRD HERITAGE 5.0
2008 SAAB 9-7X AERO 6.0 (LS2) 1 0f 554 Made
2011 FORD FLEX SEL Family Hauler

Clay Bar VS Compound (Advice needed)

Reply #8
Quote from: thunderjet302;432824
I do the same thing to my dd in the spring and fall. The only difference is I hand polish and wax. I always use paste wax as I've found it lasts longer than liquid wax.

Yeah, I use liquid compounds and paste waxes. I've been using Meguiar's ultimate paste wax since it came out - holds up well enough and has sufficient shine for a base/clear paint. My daily driver has pearlescent paint - different surface treatments change a bit of its look.

On my tbird I use Meguiar's Gold wash. On my dd that gets weekly washes, I use Meguiar's ultimate wash and wax. I prefer the Gold for many things, but between paint conditioning on a daily driver, the wash and wax product helps keep the surface shining and dirt removal remains easier throughout the 6-months before it gets stripped with dishsoap and waxed again.
1988 Thunderbird Sport

 

Clay Bar VS Compound (Advice needed)

Reply #9
Quote from: Seek;432915
Yeah, I use liquid compounds and paste waxes. I've been using Meguiar's ultimate paste wax since it came out - holds up well enough and has sufficient shine for a base/clear paint. My daily driver has pearlescent paint - different surface treatments change a bit of its look.

On my tbird I use Meguiar's Gold wash. On my dd that gets weekly washes, I use Meguiar's ultimate wash and wax. I prefer the Gold for many things, but between paint conditioning on a daily driver, the wash and wax product helps keep the surface shining and dirt removal remains easier throughout the 6-months before it gets stripped with dishsoap and waxed again.

We've been using the same stuff as well :hick:. Meguiars Ultimate polish followed by Ultimate paste wax. Wash the car with Meguiars Gold Class car wash. I do like the Ultimate polish and the Ultimate past wax. They make the old (26 year) paint on my Thunderbird look great and it makes both the Grabber Blue on the Mustang and the metal flake on the Focus pop.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.