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Topic: Removing rust from front end and spindles (Read 2054 times) previous topic - next topic

Removing rust from front end and spindles

I haven't had the chance to tackle this but I'm hoping you guys can hook me up with some tips on removing rust

The main area is the front end section under the battery tray. I'm willing to bet it's common to rust up so I hope you guys can help me get this rust off before my engine goes back in. Is there a certain product you guys use, wire brush on a drill, grind it away?

Also yesterday I scored a set of 94/95 front spindles for 50 bucks, I had to remove them but hey the people were really nice and it's way cheaper than getting them at the pick n pull we have here. Anyways they have a little bit of rust but I want to clean them up and paint them.

Some tips on removing rust would be great thanks
1987 T-Bird TC: 5-Spd, 5-lug conv., CHE Rear CAs, '04 Cobra wheels and 13" Brakes, Vac Assist conv: '93 Cobra BB/MC & Wilwood PV, Gutted/Knived Intakes, T3 turbo, RFE6 Mani, Stinger 3" Exhaust & Oil Feed, 255HP Walbro, Kirban AFPR, RR Cam, Esslinger Cam gear and Round Tooth Conv., Gillis Boost Valve, Speedway Dual Valve Spring,  K&N, 130a 3g Alt conv., 140mph Speedo
Running Better Than Ever :burnout:

Removing rust from front end and spindles

Reply #1 –
If you have rust under the battery tray it's probably from battery acid leaking down. Realistically if there are holes I would just cut out the bad metal and weld in new. if it's not bad just sand it down to bare metal, use some rust converter on it, then prime and paint it.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

Removing rust from front end and spindles

Reply #2 –
Sand blasting will be the best on the spindles, mask up the machined surfaces with some tape. First I use regular masking tape and then cover that with a few layers of duct tape. On the sheet metal surfaces it depends on how bad it is. If it is just a little surface rust I like the 3M clean and strip wheels and some 80 grit on a DA sander.  If it is really pitted I would go back to  sand blasting. If blasting is not an option, any thing you have, wire brush, grinding, etc will work, just find out what works best for you.

After getting things cleaned up I would recommend some self etching primer on the bare metal surfaces. Here in Iowa you can by aerosol cans of etch at Napa.

Removing rust from front end and spindles

Reply #3 –
Yes it is most definitely is from battery acid, later today il post some pics.
Last time I checked it looked savable, I'm hoping I won't have to cut and weld in a new piece

What exactly is rust converter?
And where would you find it?

And thanks for the help, sandblasting isn't really an option so I might try those 3m wheels
1987 T-Bird TC: 5-Spd, 5-lug conv., CHE Rear CAs, '04 Cobra wheels and 13" Brakes, Vac Assist conv: '93 Cobra BB/MC & Wilwood PV, Gutted/Knived Intakes, T3 turbo, RFE6 Mani, Stinger 3" Exhaust & Oil Feed, 255HP Walbro, Kirban AFPR, RR Cam, Esslinger Cam gear and Round Tooth Conv., Gillis Boost Valve, Speedway Dual Valve Spring,  K&N, 130a 3g Alt conv., 140mph Speedo
Running Better Than Ever :burnout:
 

Removing rust from front end and spindles

Reply #4 –
Eastwood, Permatex, Loctite and more sell rust converters (I saw some Permatex rust converter in spray cans or brush-on at NAPA yesterday).  You can also find it at Lowes/Home Depot (used for barbeques and cast iron fencing, boats, mailboxes, etc.)  You may also be able to find some "Naval Jelly" for it, too.  These are all a dilute phosphoric acid blend which converts iron oxide (rust) into a hard black neutralized coating (ferric phosphate).