5.0 Engine build questions

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5.0 Engine build questions

Reply #30 – November 17, 2013, 12:59:10 PM

The rods in my 331 kit were bolted caps which typically provide the most cylinder wall clearance. I had to clearance every cylinder.

You can typically find a roller short block that needs to be punched 0.030" for $50-$100 in the forums or in local advertisp00gets. I would suggest this route as that will alleviate you from having your car down for a prolonged period of time if you are dead set on building a motor. This also allows you to keep the stock engine all original.

If you can stand it and save some money up I would say that in your case the best solution would the find an Explorer 5.0 with the P heads and go that route. You can sell the AFR 185's and offset a lot of the cost and bypass the machine shop costs, parts, etc. Several guys here have gone this route and built in excess of 240 rwhp.

Darren

5.0 Engine build questions

Reply #31 – November 21, 2013, 08:48:17 PM

There are a lot of things to think about. I appreciate all of the input. Lots of options.
It seems like keeping my original block is one of the least cost effective choice. lol

5.0 Engine build questions

Reply #32 – November 21, 2013, 11:14:00 PM

X2 on an Explorer/Mountaineer 5.0....they all have good intakes (as good as a Cobra, just not as pretty externally) as well as the GT40 heads...later 97 and up had the GT40P which will require special headers ( i used BBK 1515's on my builds) but will give equal or greater power despite a smaller exhaust valve. Additionally, the P heads can be worked over, as well.

All you need is a 5.0 TFI distributor (which you have in your stock engine) and a 5.0 HO cam, and you're all set. You'll want the HO cam over the Explorer cam, as it has more upper RPM power and as much torque.
Oh yeah, you'll also need to either grab an EEC from a SD Mustang, or you can swap to Mass Air, along with the respective M/A eec, and then you could even run an aftermarket cam.

If you go the Speed Density direction, I've got an EEC I'd let go of if you needed one. (The stock Thunderbird 5.0 EEC won't cut it for an HO engine).
Since your car is already a 5.0, no wiring will need changed, other than plug wire routing, unless you plan to add mass air, in which case you'll need to add a wire from the EEC up to the meter. Easy stuff..with a diagram you can find by googling, you can do it in your sleep.