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Topic: Panhard bar PM3L (Read 2145 times) previous topic - next topic

Panhard bar PM3L

What options do we have on a PHB for these cars?

Will the MM bar work?

If not what are the differences/dimensions.

Thanks guys. Just trying to get the 86 bird to turn and not drive like grandpas car.

Also contemplating a PM3L

Thanks

kyle

Panhard bar PM3L

Reply #1
Check out Griggs racing products. They have a big selection of parts. He made a list out of parts and there were 3 pages worth of parts.
1987 turbo coupe 5speed: Boport stage 3 head/2.5 cam , Precision stage 3 50trim .63 turbo, Tial 38mm wastegate, Jangus gutted/ported intake manifolds, 60mm tb, Jangus open dumptube, Jangus 3" elbow, Perrin boost controller,Esslinger adjustable cam pulley, Esslinger small crank pulley, stinger FMI, RFL BOV, Spec stage 3 clutch, B&M short throw, 140 speedo, Walbo 255lph, BBK fpr, 3G alternator, ARP studs.  Be faster... :poke:

Panhard bar PM3L

Reply #2
The Maximum stuff fits perfectly, assuming you have an 8.8 under there.  We have one on our opentrack car. The Griggs stuff works, but don't plan to have tail pipes, the MM stuff is a way better design.

Panhard bar PM3L

Reply #3
MM suggests on their site to retain the rubber bushing on the upper control arms when installing their phb

any toughts on how the phb will comply with the CHE upper control arms and their stiffer bushings?

alot of guys on mustang forums complain they have to replace their upper ctrl arms bushings frequently when the stock rubber piece is not used

any toughts?

 

Panhard bar PM3L

Reply #4
I have Griggs on my '83 T-Bird and Maximum on my '93 Coupe.  I opted out of any panhard bar on my T-Bird as I have 3" mandrel bent tail pipes and no panhard bar built will clear them.  I have the full Maximum rear under my Coupe which is the panhard bar, torque arm, and their lowers.  The 2-1/2" tails barely clear (they are the over and over recommended DynoMax tails) and it took some fitting time on the rack at a buddy's exhaust shop to get them to completely clear and not rattle on parts when cornering.

My suggestion would be to get the CHE uppers and lowers and try that first with a Fox Mustang rear sway bar.  IF the rear shocks and springs are high mileage then get some good springs and shocks.  Opinions on here vary on what springs and dampers to use.  I know from others on here that the SN95 Mustang springs all the way around will drop the car about an inch.  To get some good rear shocks the pickings are slim for the T-Birds but you can use a set of Chuck W's rear shock adapters and then utilize the Fox Mustang rear shocks.  The SN95 rear shocks are identical other than they have internal stops.

Hope that helps and as always use the search function for more research on the springs and dampers.

Darren

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp