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Ford 302 rebuild question

Hey everyone I have a question about a engine block i just recently picked up. The cylinders look pretty  clean and everything looks like its ready to rebuild except its a little dirty inside the block. I don't want to have to pay for machining if i don't have to so give me your opinion i will post pictures if needed thank you all.:D

Ford 302 rebuild question

Reply #1 –
If it looks good, it usually is. I'd button it up and run it. If you're gonna run lots of boost or nitrous, thats different, but for a basic motor, good to go.
My car currently has a 180k + explorer block in it, which I have been rough on for 30-40k now. Showed some crank walk wear last time i had it apart, but still running strong.
Chris
87 Thunderbird 5.0
Engine: 97 p-code explorer block, heads, and intake; 88 HO cam, 1.7 RR's, A9P, Kenne Bell 2.1 Flow/Blow 8psi, 42lb injectors, LMAF, 75mm TB, Tuned by Don Lasota
Trans: 02 Stang 4r70w with Baumann TCS
Suspension: Front: 03-04 cobra springs and struts, TC rack. Rear: CHE arms, ChuckW shock mounts, Bullitt springs and shocks
5 bolt with 95 mustang front and mark vii rear.
TC 3.73 L/S rear
03-04 SVT Cobra 17x9's with 275/40r17's.

Ford 302 rebuild question

Reply #2 –
always hone the block if your'e using new rings but that can be done without taking it to a machine shop
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
'88 cougar 331 supercharged build in progress
'95 Blazer solid axle swapped 4X4- daily driver

Ford 302 rebuild question

Reply #3 –
There is only one way to tell if it is OK. You need to run a bore gauge inside all of the bores and see the taper. Normally you can not see if a bore is ok with the naked eye. Only if the bore is way off or has a big ridge. never just look at a bore to determine it's condition. Normally if an engine is approaching or near a 100-150K you have to machine it square and straight. Just saying!!
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Ford 302 rebuild question

Reply #4 –
oem new blocks arent perfect from these years,, machine work will get them perfectly round better than original.

cant tell nothing by looking like said,, the ridge on top really means nothing to the cylinder shape,, just my opinion though.

Ford 302 rebuild question

Reply #5 –
Thanks for replying guys. But anyway I got a honer from my buddy and we honed the cylinders and there was some surface rust but not much. A few of the cylinders look scratched but not terrible. There is one however that has some deeper scratches I am concerned about. Tomorrow I will post a pic of them to see what you guys think. I know it would run with all the brand new engine guts but I just want to get some opinions

Ford 302 rebuild question

Reply #6 –
Another question I had was how do I clean the block without getting it hottanked. Is there any way I get all the old gunk and  out of there?

Ford 302 rebuild question

Reply #7 –
wire brush for rough areas, wd-40, scotch brite pad, gasket sers and elbow grease.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Ford 302 rebuild question

Reply #8 –
If any of those scratches can catch a nail I would be concerned

Ford 302 rebuild question

Reply #9 –
My comment was for a block with assembled rotating assembly. If you're installing a new rotating, or replacing rings and bearings, you might as well have it cleaned up professionally. Once you're putting that much work in it, doesn't hurt to do it right, especially if one of your cylinders shows scoring that the hone didn't remove.

I've never actually rebuilt the rotating assembly on one of these motors, I just can't justify it when i can buy a usually sub 100k, known good explorer engine for 350-400 bucks. Comes with either gt40 or gt40p heads depending on year, and a gt40 intake setup.

Chris
87 Thunderbird 5.0
Engine: 97 p-code explorer block, heads, and intake; 88 HO cam, 1.7 RR's, A9P, Kenne Bell 2.1 Flow/Blow 8psi, 42lb injectors, LMAF, 75mm TB, Tuned by Don Lasota
Trans: 02 Stang 4r70w with Baumann TCS
Suspension: Front: 03-04 cobra springs and struts, TC rack. Rear: CHE arms, ChuckW shock mounts, Bullitt springs and shocks
5 bolt with 95 mustang front and mark vii rear.
TC 3.73 L/S rear
03-04 SVT Cobra 17x9's with 275/40r17's.
 

Ford 302 rebuild question

Reply #10 –
For the potential aggravation it could cause later you're better off to spend the money with the machinist.  Get it tanked, bored square, get the freeze plugs and knock-outs replaced with threaded plugs, the usual stuff.  If you don't, you've got at least a 50/50 shot at seriously regretting it later.  Besides, what's better than a 302?  Answer: a 306, or a 331, or a 347 (if it's true that they've sorted out the ring problems).  So spend a little money at the machine shop, it's worth it.  Most will even press cam bearings for almost nothing, especially if they're already doing a bunch of work for you.  Nobody wants to press their own cam bearings, it's the single least enjoyable part of assembling an engine.