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Topic: E brake Locking pawl troubles (Read 1540 times) previous topic - next topic

E brake Locking pawl troubles

So after locking and studying my locking pawl. Nothing looks broken. However, I think the spring  might be shot. If I manually swing the arm to lock the Ebrake, it works but the arm wont swing into the position without my help. The arm has no tension on it to make it want to move. So I believe my spring is shot. Or should there be two springs and I am just missing one?
1987 turbo coupe 5speed: Boport stage 3 head/2.5 cam , Precision stage 3 50trim .63 turbo, Tial 38mm wastegate, Jangus gutted/ported intake manifolds, 60mm tb, Jangus open dumptube, Jangus 3" elbow, Perrin boost controller,Esslinger adjustable cam pulley, Esslinger small crank pulley, stinger FMI, RFL BOV, Spec stage 3 clutch, B&M short throw, 140 speedo, Walbo 255lph, BBK fpr, 3G alternator, ARP studs.  Be faster... :poke:

E brake Locking pawl troubles

Reply #1 –
Well the spring is fine....
Can someone please take a few pics of their locking pawl so I can figure out what is going on?
1987 turbo coupe 5speed: Boport stage 3 head/2.5 cam , Precision stage 3 50trim .63 turbo, Tial 38mm wastegate, Jangus gutted/ported intake manifolds, 60mm tb, Jangus open dumptube, Jangus 3" elbow, Perrin boost controller,Esslinger adjustable cam pulley, Esslinger small crank pulley, stinger FMI, RFL BOV, Spec stage 3 clutch, B&M short throw, 140 speedo, Walbo 255lph, BBK fpr, 3G alternator, ARP studs.  Be faster... :poke:

E brake Locking pawl troubles

Reply #2 –
When I get home, If nobody else has posted a pic, I'll take one of mine. It's out of the car currently so it wouldn't be a problem to get whatever views might be required.


86' T/C 4.6L DOHC
16' Chebby Cruze 1.4L Turbo
17’ Peterbilt 389 600hp 1850ftlb Trq 18spd

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

“Heavy Metal Mistress”
[/COLOR][/SIZE]

E brake Locking pawl troubles

Reply #3 –
Okay, thank you very much
1987 turbo coupe 5speed: Boport stage 3 head/2.5 cam , Precision stage 3 50trim .63 turbo, Tial 38mm wastegate, Jangus gutted/ported intake manifolds, 60mm tb, Jangus open dumptube, Jangus 3" elbow, Perrin boost controller,Esslinger adjustable cam pulley, Esslinger small crank pulley, stinger FMI, RFL BOV, Spec stage 3 clutch, B&M short throw, 140 speedo, Walbo 255lph, BBK fpr, 3G alternator, ARP studs.  Be faster... :poke:

E brake Locking pawl troubles

Reply #4 –
If i read this correctly what you are saying the pedal wont come UP when released. If this is true there is a spring  near the bottom of the Drivers door that pulls it UP. Is it broken or missing??? If it is all that is needed is a new spring. Also if any of the cables are binding or stretched they need replacing. By the way there is a spring on each CALIPER that also has to working properly. Are the calipers working properly and do they move freely are the springs OK and in place  ??? Just a thought!!!


So you need to check the cables the springs on the calipers and also the spring below the drivers door as well as the clevis mechenism under the car. The pedal on that car does not have a return spring as far as i can remember. Good Luck!!!

NOTE the cable system on the 87-88 Coupes sucks. It has a bridging bracket that holds the cable to the PASS SIDE and doubles as a drive shaft loop. I remove the pass side cable and bracket and only use the drivers side to apply the E BRAKE. This allows you to remove all the DUMB linkage and clevis . What i do is install a heavy return spring and a threaded rod that will adjust the E BRAKE cable nicely and mount it to the now blank hole from removing the PASS side cable. When i rack the midnighter i will take a photo of the MOD. I will be doing this soon as i am removing all the cable operated E BRAKE  in the future. I am installing a different type of E BRAKE so i can remove the pedal and all the cables. I hate clutter and bogus  like manual cable E brake junk. Note this can only be dun in a state that does not have inspection for safety. The single cable system can be used and it holds nicely!!!


Or you can install an E STOPP. They are available from MIDWAY MOTORS. They use a cable but they have no pedal assembly and apply electrically . I have used them a couple of times and i like them very much for whatever it is worth!!!
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

E brake Locking pawl troubles

Reply #5 –
My actually pedal work fine, Its the locking arm the presses up against the ridges on the pedal that is messed up. It is about an inch and a half long. It should always have tension pressing into the Ebrake pedal and when you pull the handle, it pulls the arm away from the pedal releasing. The arm has no tension so it isn't pressing up against the Pedal.
1987 turbo coupe 5speed: Boport stage 3 head/2.5 cam , Precision stage 3 50trim .63 turbo, Tial 38mm wastegate, Jangus gutted/ported intake manifolds, 60mm tb, Jangus open dumptube, Jangus 3" elbow, Perrin boost controller,Esslinger adjustable cam pulley, Esslinger small crank pulley, stinger FMI, RFL BOV, Spec stage 3 clutch, B&M short throw, 140 speedo, Walbo 255lph, BBK fpr, 3G alternator, ARP studs.  Be faster... :poke:

E brake Locking pawl troubles

Reply #6 –
Here is a pic of what I am working with. The red are the loops the spring hooks up to. The yellow is where the spring is. The purple/blue color is the arm im talking about that doesnt have tension and the black is where the ridges are on the ebrake pedal that the arm should be pressed up against if it had tension.
1987 turbo coupe 5speed: Boport stage 3 head/2.5 cam , Precision stage 3 50trim .63 turbo, Tial 38mm wastegate, Jangus gutted/ported intake manifolds, 60mm tb, Jangus open dumptube, Jangus 3" elbow, Perrin boost controller,Esslinger adjustable cam pulley, Esslinger small crank pulley, stinger FMI, RFL BOV, Spec stage 3 clutch, B&M short throw, 140 speedo, Walbo 255lph, BBK fpr, 3G alternator, ARP studs.  Be faster... :poke:

E brake Locking pawl troubles

Reply #7 –
I released the ebrake after my car sat for 5 months and it made a loud bang sound. Ever since, the ebrake wouldn't lock down. So I am wondering if the top I hole moved and that's why there isn't tension on the arm.
1987 turbo coupe 5speed: Boport stage 3 head/2.5 cam , Precision stage 3 50trim .63 turbo, Tial 38mm wastegate, Jangus gutted/ported intake manifolds, 60mm tb, Jangus open dumptube, Jangus 3" elbow, Perrin boost controller,Esslinger adjustable cam pulley, Esslinger small crank pulley, stinger FMI, RFL BOV, Spec stage 3 clutch, B&M short throw, 140 speedo, Walbo 255lph, BBK fpr, 3G alternator, ARP studs.  Be faster... :poke:

E brake Locking pawl troubles

Reply #8 –
The pall spring is busted. That pall is spring loaded and if not it is busted. Time for an UP date and throw that pedal in the garbage like i am doing???
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

E brake Locking pawl troubles

Reply #9 –
The I still have a spring that is perfect. I took it off and cleaned it up. Are there two springs? I may do a change but that wont be for awhile.
1987 turbo coupe 5speed: Boport stage 3 head/2.5 cam , Precision stage 3 50trim .63 turbo, Tial 38mm wastegate, Jangus gutted/ported intake manifolds, 60mm tb, Jangus open dumptube, Jangus 3" elbow, Perrin boost controller,Esslinger adjustable cam pulley, Esslinger small crank pulley, stinger FMI, RFL BOV, Spec stage 3 clutch, B&M short throw, 140 speedo, Walbo 255lph, BBK fpr, 3G alternator, ARP studs.  Be faster... :poke:

E brake Locking pawl troubles

Reply #10 –
Finally!! Here are the pics I promised.

X

X

X


86' T/C 4.6L DOHC
16' Chebby Cruze 1.4L Turbo
17’ Peterbilt 389 600hp 1850ftlb Trq 18spd

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

“Heavy Metal Mistress”
[/COLOR][/SIZE]

E brake Locking pawl troubles

Reply #11 –
Thank you very much for the pictures! mine looks the exact same so im not missing anything.... I dont know why mine wont work..
1987 turbo coupe 5speed: Boport stage 3 head/2.5 cam , Precision stage 3 50trim .63 turbo, Tial 38mm wastegate, Jangus gutted/ported intake manifolds, 60mm tb, Jangus open dumptube, Jangus 3" elbow, Perrin boost controller,Esslinger adjustable cam pulley, Esslinger small crank pulley, stinger FMI, RFL BOV, Spec stage 3 clutch, B&M short throw, 140 speedo, Walbo 255lph, BBK fpr, 3G alternator, ARP studs.  Be faster... :poke:

E brake Locking pawl troubles

Reply #12 –
There should be a little tension on the spring when the pedal is fully released. If not, then I'm thinking that the little tab shown in the last picture that goes against the 2nd spring bracket (the one that actually puts the pressure on the pawl) has worn down or broke.

P.S. You're welcome for the pics. Hope it helps :D


86' T/C 4.6L DOHC
16' Chebby Cruze 1.4L Turbo
17’ Peterbilt 389 600hp 1850ftlb Trq 18spd

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

“Heavy Metal Mistress”
[/COLOR][/SIZE]
 

E brake Locking pawl troubles

Reply #13 –
Send photos of yours. The gear might be stripped and the spring might be OK. Check it out!!! That is why i throw that  out. It is old school and not worth even bothering with it. But if you check it out the pall might be not free on the pivot. remove the spring and see if the pall is gummed up or rusted and see if it moves freely and does not bind. If the spring is in tact and the pall is free the gears just might be shot. It needs to be checked out. POST A BUNCH OF PHOTOS!!!!
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!