oil pan plug repair

Topic: oil pan plug repair (Read 3104 times) previous topic - next topic

oil pan plug repair

May 10, 2013, 12:54:30 AM

i want to post a few things that "DO WORK" to repair an oil pan that has been already double oversize plug damaged.
so let me start with a pic of the various things i tested.

i started off using an old oil pan as a demo model so we can see whats happening inside and outside.

*note, this clip/nut inside the pan can not be drilled, it can not be tapped (ask me how my taps are doing!), it is not defeatable by anything in my garage.

here is a pic of all the materials i tested the required no brazing , one idea i did required simple wire welding.. that will be shown later.
so far ive spent about a 100$ to find the 4$ solution, anyone else ever done this to? You run out to the store and you just buy all kinds of optons then carry it all home and see which one sticks.

oil pan plug repair

Reply #1 – May 10, 2013, 12:58:26 AM

the first item that worked so very well that i will call it "OPTION 1", using a rubber bushing along with something called a "Jack NUT"

assemble your jack nut an bushing as i have shown.
-slip jack not into a thin washer
-slighty bend out the 4 vertical metal tiers up where they are intened to bend
-slip on your rubber bushing
-add several flat washers atop the jack nut along with your bolt that will be used to compress the jack nut.
-you have to hold onto the washers real tight with pliers as you tighten the bolt which keeps the jack nut from rotating inside the pan.
-once done, the jack nut will flair out on the interior top side of the factory welded clip/nut.

oil pan plug repair

Reply #2 – May 10, 2013, 01:00:03 AM

option 1 continued with more pics

oil pan plug repair

Reply #3 – May 10, 2013, 01:03:58 AM

another view of option 1

results within the pan. see how the jack nut compresses the 4 vertical walls down thus pulling the exterior tighter agains the rubber bushing and compressing things together.

oil pan plug repair

Reply #4 – May 10, 2013, 01:07:30 AM

this i will call option 2A, there are many rubber plugs out there applicable to this as a decent solution.
just stuff it in the hole then rotate the wing nut.
the stud is rounded on the end up in the pan and is drawn down to flair out the rubber on the interior of the pan making a tight seal.
on pic here in option 2A shows all the various plugs i tested, the ones that actually fit in the hole or could be made to fit in the hole were tested.

oil pan plug repair

Reply #5 – May 10, 2013, 01:10:15 AM

option 2B ~ seems to be a much better option than 2A
just stuff the plug in the hole and tighten the bolt head which then draws in a metal end that flairs out the rubber on the interior of the pan similar to option 2A

oil pan plug repair

Reply #6 – May 10, 2013, 01:24:38 AM

Option 3
involves the purchase of the item i show below along with a fender washer.
drill the fender washer to allow for 4 stainless screws.
place it over your oil pan plug opening and marking the bottom of the pan.
drill 4 holes to mount the welded gizmo i show.~~~ good luck with this because if your not careful, you will **FAIL** cause you will hit that undefeatable metal clip in your pan which is made of the same steel as your drill bit and your tap and die set!!!
this is why i do not show it installed. i only show a simulation. you would add a rubber gasket as required and screw it down.

again, this would be a rock solid solution if you could dodge the metal clip backing within the pan

oil pan plug repair

Reply #7 – May 10, 2013, 01:38:57 AM

I had high hopes on the concrete anchor drawing "through" a brass insert but was not satisfied with that so i wont post those pics.

my next test will be brazing in like Tom R did but on a car with the pan on.
that would involve letting the oil drain for a day...
shoot some thinner up into the oil pan to wash away residual...
then shoot some water up in the pan to wash...
then it may be safe to add the heat required to attach brass to the steel.

overall, as stated earlier,, i would highly recommend option 1 and option 2B as permanent solutions to stripped out oil pan drain plugs especially where you have moved beyond the "double over size" plug.

comments welcome

oil pan plug repair

Reply #8 – May 11, 2013, 02:45:26 PM

I like the rubber plug option the best. I think it is probably the easiest for the home mechanic to pull off without any special tools.

I had a stripped rear drain plug on the Thunderbird seven years ago. I decided it was easier to pull the engine to replace the oil pan. That resulted in an engine rebuild with a Comp cam and GT40P heads. Don't get started down that path. It's the most expensive

oil pan plug repair

Reply #9 – May 11, 2013, 09:19:21 PM

to be honest, of option 1 and 2b,,,,

option 1 works out way tighter and most reliable, still leaves you with a large hole for drain.

wing nut plugs - advance auto in the odd ball wall section off to the side but they are not in the "HELP" section,, its like they are on a shelf to themselves.
rubber plugs - tractor supply
Flip tab rubber plugs - from one of my local hardware stores called Martin and Jones.
Jack nuts - combination of True value and Lowes,,, you want the largest hole jack nut possible.
various wedge anchor / misc brass stuff came from lowes as well.

oil pan plug repair

Reply #10 – May 11, 2013, 10:29:22 PM

Interesting but useful topic...

Travis

oil pan plug repair

Reply #11 – May 11, 2013, 10:48:42 PM

thats what we do

oil pan plug repair

Reply #12 – May 11, 2013, 11:53:48 PM

weld it shut and tap and weld a new drain plug.

oil pan plug repair

Reply #13 – May 12, 2013, 12:11:08 AM

thats the part that can introduce the kaboom... when the pan still is on the car.

i cant remember, but,,

will the pan come off if the steering rack is dropped down?, assume motor mounts are undone and engine is up as high as possible,,,>??

oil pan plug repair

Reply #14 – May 12, 2013, 11:20:36 AM

I've pulled it out with motor and rack in, but you need to undo motor mounts and trans mount and angle it a 45 degree angle from what I remember. shouldn't take more then an hour unless your exhaust bolts are all rusted.