Gremlins!!!!
Reply #15 –
Jay just a question??? His post said the switch or controlling device was for his HEAT. Normally that would be a 220V circuit. So my question to you is how does the neutral come in to play ???? If i am correct 220 circuts do not use the Neutral as wired. Now the issue with the lug i posted is not a wire size issue at all. Reason being i went back to the owner of these vehicles and soldered all the other terminals in his fleet. NO ISSUES. I also checked the current in the circuit and found it was not even close to the wiring capacity. So either those connections are falty and the old standard i live by is correct. SOLDER IS THE ANSWER. Just me not an engineer just a realist!!
NOTE the switch posted by thunder shows a tamper proof TORX. So in my thinking the company did not want it messed with and most likely has a specific instillation procedure and torque for the device. just a guess!!
Also why only one side failed. I come across this with heater blower motors on over the road trucks. The plugs to the heaters burn open on the POSITIVE SIDE NEVER THE GROUND SIDE. This has baffled me as to WHY. The connector has to handle the same current so why the positive side all the time. Conclusion!!! In my thinking is the crimps are different or the connectors are heavier but they are not. Soldering and removing the connector repairs the issue and this prooves the connections are resistive. Thoughts???