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Topic: 2.3 rear main seal (Read 933 times) previous topic - next topic

2.3 rear main seal

i have oil leakage something fierce. about a quart every 250 miles.  its either the oil pan gasket or the rear main. i see the auto trans has to come out to do the rear main seal, does the motor have to be moved much to do the oil pan gasket?  has anyone used a repair sleeve on the crank?
 the car has 150k miles.      i just changed the vc gasket and the pcv valve so i dont think boost is causing my leaking....
-pete
july/88 turbo coupe auto

2.3 rear main seal

Reply #1
The engine needs to come out to replace the oil pan gasket.  I can't imagine trying to replace it with the engine still in the car. 

Crawl under it and it should become obvious whether it is the rear main seal or not.  Also hope you checked the pcv to make sure it is good,  a lot of aftermarket pcvs are faulty straight out of the box.
...and there was light!

2.3 rear main seal

Reply #2
i replaced it with a ford PCV valve. its working properly. bummer on taking the engine out. maybe it would be easier to drop the k member?
-pete
july/88 turbo coupe auto

2.3 rear main seal

Reply #3
i put in some oil dye last night, drove it about 10 miles, and will check it tonight.
-pete
july/88 turbo coupe auto

2.3 rear main seal

Reply #4
Great thinking man! i hope it works our for you!
1987 turbo coupe 5speed: Boport stage 3 head/2.5 cam , Precision stage 3 50trim .63 turbo, Tial 38mm wastegate, Jangus gutted/ported intake manifolds, 60mm tb, Jangus open dumptube, Jangus 3" elbow, Perrin boost controller,Esslinger adjustable cam pulley, Esslinger small crank pulley, stinger FMI, RFL BOV, Spec stage 3 clutch, B&M short throw, 140 speedo, Walbo 255lph, BBK fpr, 3G alternator, ARP studs.  Be faster... :poke:

2.3 rear main seal

Reply #5
well i checked it with oil dye last night. good news is, the rear main and oild pan are dry. all my oil seems to be coming from the dipstick tube, and it just saturates everything below. no its not leaking from where the tube goes into the block, but seems to be shooting out the hole for the stick.
  well first i figured is a pcv issue. so i check the breather at the back of the valve cover: its good.
 i check the hose from that to the vam: clear
 i check the hose from the intake to the PCV valve: clear, pcv valve has been replace with a new ford unit a month ago, its checks fine.
 i check the breather on the side of the block,  what i did is put compressed air to that -and i could feel it easily coming out the oil cap hole. so thats clear.
 the rubber grommet on the dipstick feels good. the car has no blow by while running, ( but i cant tell under boost)
 getting kinda stumped here!
-pete
july/88 turbo coupe auto

2.3 rear main seal

Reply #6
is it blowing the stick out and you have to push it back down after a run?  I ended up putting a spring on mine in my autox car(no pictures though) and it solved my problems.  Also did a compression fitting where the tube slides in the block and no more leaks there.

88 t-bird tc - 14.97 @ 90  IHI 18 psi + k+n filter...so far - NOW HX-35 @25psi - 12.75@112    348rwhp/395rwtq
78 F-150 - 11.61@120 on 175shot N20 - 12.55@110 on motor - 5200# race weight:hick:

 

2.3 rear main seal

Reply #7
Make sure it is coming out of the dip stick tube, it almost sounds like it could be the oil pressure sensor? It is located between the dip stick and firewall, just below where the valve cover meets the head.

I've read a bunch of guys getting new faulty pcvs, if you can blow through it from both sides it is faulty.

On my spoogemins I had to do like fordguy45, it constantly kept blowing the dipstick out.
...and there was light!