Turbo Problems

Topic: Turbo Problems (Read 5801 times) previous topic - next topic

Turbo Problems

Reply #45 – August 18, 2011, 03:45:48 PM

Cam, valve springs and wide band HLA's purchased from Boport. $502 is not bad considering they will out last the life of the engine and give me the performance I want.

Turbo Problems

Reply #46 – August 20, 2011, 07:26:52 PM

Ok, so Bo said it's going to be 2-3 weeks for my cam because he ran out of them. So I went ahead and put the ranger cam in it, much to my lack of desire, but I have to get to work. So I'll be driving around with the power reducing RR cam. You guys were not kidding when you said it sucks the juice out of this car, it really does. It's terrible. I did, however, discover that the tapping sound was a lifter that was broken in half, the cam probably had a little more time. I went to pull the lifter out and the wider part of it was broken about half way down. The other half was hell to get out. The ranger cam rattled for about 5 minutes but now it's quiet and hums like a sewing machine. My car sounds much more aggressive but has a lot less power, I can't wait to get that Boport cam in it. Thanks for all of your help guys, you're life savers.

Turbo Problems

Reply #47 – August 20, 2011, 08:24:34 PM

The ranger cam does bring power down a bit, but not that much. Check your cam timing again. If you have an adjustable cam pulley, try advancing the cam a couple of degrees. If you don't have an adjustable cam pulley, get one.

Turbo Problems

Reply #48 – August 20, 2011, 08:39:27 PM

Quote from: jangus;365641

Check your cam timing again.

x2

RR should have plenty of grunt down low and run out of steam around 45-5000rpm(relative to the stock slider). When I run the RR, I like to retard it 4* to help it breathe up top since they have more down low to start with.
Certainly not a performance upgrade, but an upgrade none the less, and cheap replacement to get yourself to work!

Turbo Problems

Reply #49 – August 21, 2011, 02:59:58 PM

I agree with Gumby. I don't have an adjustable cam gear yet, but instead I gave my distributor a little turn to advance the timing a tidge when I got to work this morning. I noticed it was backfiring a little on back pressure and that cleared it right up. I probably set my aux gear a little off when I was putting the timing belt back on. Well, needless to say the problem is solved and it actually has more power than it did before, but obviously, with the valves in two cylinders hardly working at all I think carving a hole in the floor boards and pretending to be on the Flintstones would have been a performance increase. I'm happy for now, it serves the purpose, I just can't wait for my cam from Bo. I hate to tear it down again, but it's worth it. I think I need to replace my main bearing as well, I keep dropping oil pressure when it gets warm (did this before the cam swap) or, replace my oil pump. I didn't put this one in, but I'm pretty sure it's a high volume, and that's changing to a high pressure in a few days. Thanks for all of your input guys.

Turbo Problems

Reply #50 – August 21, 2011, 10:23:11 PM

WORD OF CAUTION

DO NOT USE A HIGH PRESSURE OR HIGH VOLUME PUMP ON A 2.3 FORD. It will strip the teeth off the aux shaft and Dizzy gear faster than you can DREAM OF. As the matter of fact i use an NA pump in my builds with 10/30 oils only. Never EVER use a high volume or pressure pump. You can take that to the BANK.

Check your ignition timing properly. The RR cam is a DOG but it does make good power up to 5K. It should be at least comparable to a stock slider to some extent. If your cam timing is correct and your ignition timing is on you can retard that cam 4-6* and pick up some upper end power to some extent. Or just wait for your new cam.

Turbo Problems

Reply #51 – August 22, 2011, 04:14:13 PM

Yeah, I got the power back. I'm sure my ignition timing is a little off on that aux gear so a little turn on the dist and it's good. I have it perfectly in time and I really don't feel like messing with it for a couple of weeks, so I'll just wait on the Boport cam. Thanks for the heads up on the oil pump info, that would have def pissed me off... and put me up that creek without that paddle. Some have told me that it could be a bad oil pressure switch... but it's strange.

Basically, the problem is that it holds pressure to the top of the oil pressure gauge when I first start the car. It holds this pressure till it warms up, once it's warm, if I sit at a light without bringing up the RPM's, it will bottom out on the oil gauge. The engine doesn't act any different, but of course, i don't let it sit down there either. If I keep it rev'd up to about 1700 - 2000 rpms it stays about half way up the gauge and almost all the way back up when I'm driving. If I'm moving and I push in the clutch and coast, it drops again. No major oil leaks, no burning oil. No oil in the water or vice versa. No strange sounds. I run 10/30 Mobile 1 Full Synth Extended Protection and a Mobile 1 Ext Protection filter. Before I put the Mobile change in I just ran Seafoam through a 1 week cleaning cycle in my oil (I had the pressure problems before this) with a fresh change of Castrol GTX Synth Blend 10/40 and a FRAM TG Filter (I hate fram and normally wouldn't put it on a lawn mower, but in the case that the oil and filter were coming off and out after a very light driving week, I thought it would be ok). So it's narrowed pretty well to one of these three things.
Oil Pressure Switch/Sensor
Oil Pump
Main bearing

I think I'll start at the sensor. It's 24 years old and even if it's not the problem, it may likely be part of it.... so where is it?

Turbo Problems

Reply #52 – August 22, 2011, 07:00:59 PM

I had the same issue with the oil pressure gauge maxing out when the engine was started, and dropping to almost the bottom of the gauge when it warmed up. Changed the oil pressure sender and it was back to normal. I will be adding some real gauges to monitor the engine, so I don't have to rely on the factory ones. They're not known for their accuracy anyway.

Turbo Problems

Reply #53 – August 22, 2011, 10:10:46 PM

I'm going to replace the oil pressure switch soon. I assume it's the miniature fuel filter looking thing by the driver side firewall corner of the valve cover? My oil pressure comes back up when I rev up the car or I'm driving, it only drops once the car warms up and is at idle.