Battery Relocation & Fuse

Topic: Battery Relocation & Fuse (Read 4934 times) previous topic - next topic

Battery Relocation & Fuse

Reply #15 – October 12, 2011, 07:46:55 PM

Quote from: 67jones71;369882

I like the starter solenoid in the trunk, this is the way we build all of our cars but we also usually run the wiring against the frame to the engine compartment. Actually we have one of are race cars that is completely wired with continuous power solenoids they run the fuel pump, water pump, fan, and ignition. We have all these (except for one in the trunk for the fuel pump) solenoids in the glove department very neat and clean only a few wires in the engine compartment. But we run carbureted application stuff so if your efi you still have all that lol.

Yeah, I have those continuous power relays on my 84 Crew Cab.
The previous owner wired it up.
I like the idea of that solonoid controlling all that amperage rather than the steering column ignition switch.

Battery Relocation & Fuse

Reply #16 – October 12, 2011, 07:49:11 PM

Battery Relocation & Fuse

Reply #17 – October 18, 2011, 09:41:39 PM

Tom Renzo, I talked to a couple of people in the area and they never heard of running cable through heater hose but all thought it made sense for some added protection. I picked up 25' of 2/0 welding wire from a local welding shop and 24' of 5/8" heater hose. I'm trying to feed the cable through the hose which is a tight fit and I'm wondering what's the best way to do this. It's taken me about 45 minutes to get about 14" in and the beginning should be the easiest section to feed through. How do you do it? I was thinking about coating the cable with Vaseline so it would slide through easier. Once I get this run I'll connect it to a 300 amp fuse in the trunk at the battery for additional safety.

Battery Relocation & Fuse

Reply #18 – October 18, 2011, 10:34:05 PM

I can't imagine that feeding cable down a heater hose will be easy. Let us know how it works.

Battery Relocation & Fuse

Reply #19 – October 19, 2011, 07:17:56 PM

I can't figure out how to push the cable through the heater hose so I'm thinking of a couple of different options:
1.) I can cut a slit down the length of the heater hose, lay the cable inside and close the heater hose up with some flame-retardant tape.
2.) Cut the heater hose in more manageable pieces, say 18" sections that are easier to push the cable through, push the individual sections together and connect them with flame-retardant tape. I would also try my best to install the clamps that connect the hose to the car at the different section connection points (where the tape would be).
I'm leaning toward option 2 and think option 1 would would negate the benefit of the heater hose too much. My thought is if most people don't use a heater hose for additional protection, would I really be holding the cable out to a great deal of liability or risk if I cut the hose in 18" sections. Ideally I'd like to push the cable through the hose but I don't see how that will be possible. Any thoughts out there?

Battery Relocation & Fuse

Reply #20 – October 19, 2011, 09:07:37 PM

What I did on mine was add extra rub protection where the cable passed an edge or something. I used plastic split sheath, but you could use your hose in the same way. Just use it where you think it will be needed and it will be fine.

The issue with adding a fuse at the battery is the draw from the starter is huge for a short while. I don't know how big of a fuse is adequate for sure.

Battery Relocation & Fuse

Reply #21 – October 19, 2011, 09:51:04 PM

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Battery Relocation & Fuse

Reply #22 – October 19, 2011, 10:04:54 PM

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Battery Relocation & Fuse

Reply #23 – October 24, 2011, 06:16:46 PM

I talked to my girlfriends Dad who echoed what Tom had to say and did add that once a fuse breaks, it will then break at a lower amperage than before. So if I get a 600 amp fuse and my cold cranking amps on the battery is rated for say 750 and in the dead of winter my fuse breaks at say 600 amps, it may then break later at say 580 amps and the pattern continues, 570, 560 and so on. Of course this is just an example but if I'm going to use a fuse which I think would be a good safety addition, I want to make sure I have fuse that at least matches or is very close to matching the cold cranking amps on my battery. I've googled 600 amp fuses and the styles vary as much as the prices. Has anybody put a fuse this size before? Anybody have any ideas on what style fuse I should go with? As always, any help would be greatly appreciated even if it's "skip the fuse".

Battery Relocation & Fuse

Reply #24 – October 24, 2011, 09:34:28 PM

I run a 175 or a 200 amp wafer fuse on mine, I cant remember witch and have had no problem yet, I use a mini torque style starter with the solenoid on the fender with a constant hot to the starter. But i wont be starting it in the dead of winter though.