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Topic: Smoking Ignition Module! (Read 2512 times) previous topic - next topic

Smoking Ignition Module!

Hey ya'll,
    I've got a challenge for ya, if you're up for it. I have an 84 T-Bird with a 3.8. The Ignition has been reverted back to a Duraspark (83) after I converted it back to carburetion. I wired up everything, and the car has been running fine for over a year now. All of a sudden the other day, the car began to stall after about 20 minutes of use. I popped the hood, and to my suprise, saw smoke coming from the Ignition Control Module! So, the first thing I did was to replace the ICM, Coil (TFI Blaster) and the Ballast resistor. Started it today and the same thing occurred. About the only idea I have left is to replace the Voltage Regulator. Does anyone think this might be the root of my evil? And if not, do you have any other ideas before I take it to the shop?

Thanks folks,
George :bowdown:

Re: Smoking Ignition Module!

Reply #1 –
welcome to the forums

 yeah dude the voltage regulator sounds like the culprit....but if not ask somone like Turbocoupe50, jcassity, or some senior members

-Blackjack-

Re: Smoking Ignition Module!

Reply #2 –
Well apparently not. I got a new one tonight and put it in. Still stalling after ~ 10 minutes of run time. The ICM is REALLY hot too. I hate wires.

-George

Re: Smoking Ignition Module!

Reply #3 –
the duraspark system eh?

which type? I, II or III

is there any chance you might be able to tell us what the alternator is putting out?  higher than 16vdc?  flip the meter to ac and see what that side is doing also,, if your alt is hosed, that might be an issue especially with multipule jumps or removing the hot lead on the bat while KOER.

Re: Smoking Ignition Module!

Reply #4 –
don't know much about duraspark, but I do know you need to get one with the correct gromet color.  Only other ideas are too much voltage as already mentioned or a short. There is a way to use a GM HEI instaed although you'd probably fry that too.  Maybe a diagram will help:

Re: Smoking Ignition Module!

Reply #5 –
Is this a pure Duraspark II system or a hybrid mix of some kind?

Did you replace the EEC IV distributor with the kind that Duraspark uses?

Re: Smoking Ignition Module!

Reply #6 –
Quote from: softtouch
Is this a pure Duraspark II system or a hybrid mix of some kind?



Im 99% its dsII but the guy here needs to tell us what he has.

Re: Smoking Ignition Module!

Reply #7 –
Dood, I had the same problem. I kept frying my modules, and they were getting way too hot. Finally I went a got an old Duraspark module from the boneyard and problem solved. It looks like  but it works better than any of those junk ones I got from Advance Auto. Next I'm going with an HEI setup and run new wires everywhere... another culprit.
2005 Subaru WRX STi|daily driver

Re: Smoking Ignition Module!

Reply #8 –
Its DS2, by the way, sorry about that. I know I have the right module, its the one with the blue grommet. I am curious about the alternator though. Its 4 years old now. I had no clue that when they go bad they could actually INCREASE voltage? I'll run it by Autozone tomorrow and have them check the voltage. Is this true though? A bad alt. could cause a voltage spike of some sort?

Also, yes, it *should* be a pure DS2 system now. All except for the Coil, it is all DS2 parts. DS dizzy and everything.

-George

Re: Smoking Ignition Module!

Reply #9 –
yeah,, its true.

actually your alternator is an AC current and voltage output device.

any alternative energy folks out there?

the 6 diodes convert it to DC which is a lower voltage perse' because the peak to peak power is not present anymore.  theres just a plain flat line dc output,, not a pulsing alternating sine wave AC voltage like what you have at your outlet on the wall.

so,,,, back to my point........
if a diode or two is shorted,, its allowing some ac to trickle through and thus adding up as a higher output.  The early sign would be a battery that bubbles when your car is running,, or you hear noise coming from your battery when you just shut if off.  Thats another reason we have vents on the battery.

Re: Smoking Ignition Module!

Reply #10 –
Hmm, well that makes more sense. I always thought that the ballast resistor might help in that situation though?  In any case, I'm taking it down to the Zone tomorrow to have the system checked. Maybe it is the Alternator, in which case, I just replaced every part in between for no reason, lol.

-George

Re: Smoking Ignition Module!

Reply #11 –
Quote from: noleboygeorge
Hmm, well that makes more sense. I always thought that the ballast resistor might help in that situation though?
-George



keep in mind,, the ballast resisters do not control outputs or give you a regulation of voltage.  that is not the purpose of the ballast.  the ballast acts as a high ****wattage**** fuse.  If you notice on diagrams, there are no fuses tyipically on charge circuits in an automobile.  if there were fuses in the fuse box,, they would most likely have to be a circuit breaker somewhat like whats on a house breaker box.

the ballast resistor is only a very short section of **wire** which is usually one or two guages smaller than the power lead its in series with.  it will burn open first if there are extreem situations. 

A friend of mine cut his out when he found it burn up in the dash of his 95 blazer.  this thing was about 6 inches long.  he replaced it with a wire of the same guage as the harness and that was his major problem.

later on the dash and a couple harnesses caught fire.

ill say it like i always have,, fuses blow for a reason so dont step up to a higher amperage unless your confident.
 

Re: Smoking Ignition Module!

Reply #12 –
After some checking I have determined that my '84 T-Bird with
EEC IV TFI ignition does NOT have a ballast resistor.
Also no resistor is shown in any of the diagrams.
The wires from the "start" and "run" ignition positions are spliced together in the harness.

Maybe there is something built into the TFI that regulates current flow through the coil?

In cars that came with Duraspark II the wire from the ignition switch "run" position is several feet of resistive "Nichrome" wire that is spliced to the wire from "start" position in the harness.
This gives you a ballast resistor while in "run" and bypasses the resistor in "start"

From the '84 shop manual:
Duraspark II ignition:
The voltage at the plus side of the coil with the ignition in "run" (don't start) should be 6 to 8 volts.

If your voltage is too high the current through the coil and ignition module will be too high.

How did you wire in your Ballast resistor?