rack & pinion removal?

May 12, 2005, 02:31:52 AM

I have to replace the rack & pinion in my recently bought 88 cougar/thunderbird 5.0 (cougar body with a thunderbird turbo front clip and hood). I got all the lines and bolt out and disconnected the steering at the firewall but can't get it to come out. Part of the steering rack goes under the motor mount and looks like it is binding up there. So my question is is there any tips or easy way to get it out with out having to remove the motor?

Re: rack & pinion removal?

Reply #1 – May 13, 2005, 11:00:02 AM

yes there is,, but i would not call it easier.

if your in a bind,, spread the clap apart where the steering rod attaches to the rack,, it smashes together when you add the bolt.

you have already removed the one bolt that clamps the steering to the rack and i hope you marked your a rack to clamp with something by now. id use some oil base paint or junk yard paint stick.

Now,, go look directly under you power booster. there will be a bolt like the one down at the rack. Loosen it up and your knuckle assembly will telescope upwards towards the fire wall.
Of course i talking out my a$$ cause i could not get mine loose so i fought it as you are now. It finally gave in after i loosened the two long rack bolts and pry the assyembly forward. The extra slack gave me what i needed.

if you get this bolt loose,, its gonna be the snitz cause then you can re align your steering wheel with relation to the new rack orientation.

when you put your new rack on,, leave off the inner tie rod end covers.
bolt things up
now measure from the outter case of the rack up to the end of the rod sticking out each side of the rack.
adjust it left or right (this is one single long shaft).
the measurements will need to be equal.
now install everything.
make sure to take notes on the distance from the rack case to the begining edge of the outter tie rod end as well
this will put you pack as things were for alignment purposes.
i hope you were aware of the allen head set screws on the knuckle of the inner tie rod ends? !

before you put on your new covers on either end of the rack,, it would be a good idea to cram each end of the rack with grease. They are pretty skimpy on the amount thats in there for some reason. I just crammed as much as i could up either side.

i have a trick for a good enough alignment as well if you doing.

did you buy inner and outters?

i think ill go edit my tie rod end write up to include the rack removeal.

*****************
here is the write up i did (under the general car work topic)on the rack as tie rod ends which i think you should look at,, it will help.

Rack/pinion removeal and tid bits
**in advance,, yes i know the driver motor mount is in the way and i feel your pain : )**
Loosen bolt just below your power booster on the steering rod assembly (telescope part)
i could not get my telescope bolt loose so my situation was harder.
locate and remove the nut that joins the rack to steering rod near the driver motor mount.
Try your best to mark your rack/pinion to steering shaft near motor mount
this helps to re-align the steering wheel afterwards
dont remove steering knuckle assembly just yet.
lock steering wheel,jack up car by lower control arms,remove both front wheels
loosen up rack/pinion covers and slide them outwards.
the covers might still have the factory "pinch" or "sinch" clamps and are easy to remove
just slip a punch up in the pinched off part and spread it open
measure and note the distance from the rack case to the beginning of the outter tie rod ends
dont mesure up to the nut,,the brand nut may make it thicker or thinner.
the distance to the outter tie rod end is critical for alignment as it was before removeal
loosen up the two long rack bolts and pry forward a little bit
undo all the power steering fittings you can get to at this time. Only two to do.
you will undo the power steering feed and return lines, use a brake line wrench
loosen outter tie rod end lock nut
remove the outter tie rod end by loosening the castle nut till flush with the stud surface
hammer on it till it frees up and undo it, just leave the outters on for now
grasp the outter tie rod end and push it in and out to check for play on the inner.
if you feel a bit of slack and your not replacing the inners,,then.
********move on to the next topic below called
"""""""Tie rod end inspection and inner tie rod end adjustment""""""""
you can change the outters when the rack has more space on the floor.
eventually you will get the second power steering line loose and the rack is read to come out
remove the two long rack bolts and bushings and nuts
the new bushings will probably be hard plastic,, its your choice to use them or not.
remove rack out on the floor and take off your outter tie rod ends and trash them
remove the covers and inspect the inner tie rod end for one or two allen head set screws
the inner tie rod end is the large nut that you see on either side of the rack
the set screw is located on the side of this nut.
loosen set screw then undo the inner tie rod end knuckle nut.

installing everything back is pretty much reverse order but there are a couple things to cover
center up the rack/pinion full lenght rod that sticks out each end
measure the distance fromt the rack case to the end of the rod till equal (critical)
adjust this rod that passes through the rack by truning the thingamajig that hooks to steering linkage
mount rack,add bushings,bolts,lines ect
add inner tie rod ends (the inners are adjustable if you look up inside the knuckle nut)
some have a metal disc which can be rotated using a 1/4'' exention
for this type, loosen it, use a grease gun and shove some grease up in the 1/4'' hole
rotate the disc till the knuckle is not floppy and rather stiff
others have a plastic disc and cant be loosened for grease as far as i know
to adjust the plastic disc type, just tighten the knuckle up to the rack till its stiff
add your allen set screws to lock in your position
refer to your outter tie rod end measurements to reinstall your outter tie rod ends
now would be a good time to reattach the steering rod so you done hose up steering wheel alignment
your about done now and you should be able to take it from here.
______________________________

Tie rod end inspection and inner tie rod end adjustment

remove the outter tierod end cotter pin
back outter tierod end castle nut till its flush with the stud
smack the nut/stud with a hammer upward to loosen it
remove nut
if the outter knuckle seems to move easy, replace the outter tierod end.
Locate your slop on the inner
raise and lower the whole arm which is connected at the rack/pinion
does it move easy up and down?
move the entire assy parallel to the gound
move it in towards the rack then pull it towards yourslef
do you feel play?
if so, you could try to adjust the innner tie rod end.

slide rack/pinion dust shild to expose the inner tierod end knuckle
locate a tiny lock or set screw in the big hex nut attached to the rack.
loosen this set screw (probably an allen head
use a cresent to remove the whole tierod assy both inner and outter off the rack
look inside the inner tie rod end nut and there will be a round disc deep inside
there are two types of inners i have come across.
plastic disc
metal disc

plastic disc type
use a grease gun to add grease up in the 1/4'' hole
reinstall /*adjust* the entire arm assy till your whole assy does not flop around easy
reconnect everything back up and lock it in via the set/lock screw.
the plastic disc will be pressed further up into the knockle thus taking up slack.

metal disc type
use a grease gun to add grease up in the 1/4'' hole
use a 1/4 drive fitting and insert it into the square hole in the knuckle
turn the disc till its snug
reconnect everything back up and lock it in via the set/lock screw.
the metal disc needs rotated and must be manually done.