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Topic: Brake lines (Read 1117 times) previous topic - next topic

Brake lines

Re-doing all the lines from the MC to the wheels.. What size lines do I need, and is it worth going stainless?

Thats all...
Jerry
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
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5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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Brake lines

Reply #1 –
With all the work you have done, you should go stainless, unless you like rust:mullet:. I believe most of the lines are 3/16ths. I would run all 3/16ths in the front to make it easy and run an adjustable brake portioning valve.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Brake lines

Reply #2 –
The std hardline size is 3/16. 

I'm assuming by "stainless", you mean braided stainless hoses in place of the rubber ones?  That would be my choice.  I try to convert all my cars to braided stainless when I can, even the "dailys".

If you mean stainless on the hardlines, that would probably be a PITA to try to flare.

On a car that's not going to be seeing salt duty, the std steel hardlines should be fine. 
For what it's worth, on the Volvos (at least on the 240's) they use a copper hardline.
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo - '85 Marquis LTS - '86 LTD Wagon

Brake lines

Reply #3 –
It wouldn't hurt to run 1/4 " to the back for the tc rear disc if you are running all new.
Old Grey Cat to this.88 Cat, 5.0 HO, CW mounts, mass air, CI custom cam, afr165's, Tmoss worked cobra intake, BBK shorty's,off road h pipe, magnaflow ex. T-5,spec stage 2 clutch, 8.8 373 TC trac loc, che ajustables with bullits on the rear. 11" brakes up front. +

Brake lines

Reply #4 –
Quote from: Chuck W;328339
The std hardline size is 3/16. 

I'm assuming by "stainless", you mean braided stainless hoses in place of the rubber ones?  That would be my choice.  I try to convert all my cars to braided stainless when I can, even the "dailys".

If you mean stainless on the hardlines, that would probably be a PITA to try to flare.

On a car that's not going to be seeing salt duty, the std steel hardlines should be fine. 
For what it's worth, on the Volvos (at least on the 240's) they use a copper hardline.


I had the same thought about the hard lines right after I clicked submit... The car will never see salt or snow ever again. I'll look into the braided lines. and probably put an adjustable proportioning valve in the setup.

What would be the difference in braking if I went to 1/4" lines in back. If I do that... should I swap the MC to a Cobra MC or something better?
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
Join us on Facebook
http://www.facebook.com/home.php?sk=group_137541156293768&ap=1

Brake lines

Reply #5 –
It would give you a bit more fluid for the calipers. I'm still using the stock mc without problems,so I can't compare. from what people say it's got a better feel.
Old Grey Cat to this.88 Cat, 5.0 HO, CW mounts, mass air, CI custom cam, afr165's, Tmoss worked cobra intake, BBK shorty's,off road h pipe, magnaflow ex. T-5,spec stage 2 clutch, 8.8 373 TC trac loc, che ajustables with bullits on the rear. 11" brakes up front. +
 

Brake lines

Reply #6 –
The 3/16" will make tighter bend radius versus the 1/4" which can be of some benefit in some cases.  The 1/4" will move more volume due to the line having a just about twice the area of a 3/16" line.  I am pretty sure the pressure will not change due to the pump i.e. the MC is not changing.  I would say the average person could not tell the difference in braking characteristics due to the rear brakes only doing about 30% of the stopping on most setups.  If you are running out of pedal i.e. not enough fluid to move the pistons in the calipers correctly then a MC change is the way to go.

Changing to the SS braided lines on the front calipers, rear calipers, and the line from the body of the car over to the rear end help as the rubber units swell from the pressure and can reduce the amount of force the pistons in the calipers exert on the rotors.

Bang for the buck would be to install the standard 3/16" lines and the SS braided lines IMO.

Darren

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp