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Topic: Moving the cruise buttons..... (Read 1323 times) previous topic - next topic

Moving the cruise buttons.....

How do you do it? Tell me like I'm 5 years old. I hate electrical .....I'm sure most already know that.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Moving the cruise buttons.....

Reply #1 –
Quote from: vinnietbird;329301
How do you do it? Tell me like I'm 5 years old. I hate electrical .....I'm sure most already know that.


I moved mine it was simple as pie , I'm not home right now but later I will post the procedure with pics :D
Fox-less at the moment

Moving the cruise buttons.....

Reply #2 –
That would be perfection. Thanks a lot. I have extra buttons so I can keep the wheel "right" until it gets replaced.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Moving the cruise buttons.....

Reply #3 –
Cut and paste Vinnie... so to speak
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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Moving the cruise buttons.....

Reply #4 –
How? I never get into the column except for the push button start,and that was a c for me. I'm unsure how to get to the cruise wires.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Moving the cruise buttons.....

Reply #5 –
Ok , as simple as I can make it .This is for an 88 bird
Wiring colors on the column may differ for other years. 
1. Look at your "new" switches there will be three wire colors
a black one and two different colors depending on what kind of vehicle the switches came from . in the enclosed pic the switches are original to my bird  lightblue/black , and purple
2.Remove the lower half of your column trim and the trim plate under the column  .
 3 . Locate the Yellow/light green wire< That will be connected to the single wire on your switches (purple in my pic )do not cut that wire you need to tap into it as it supplies power to your horn also.
4. take the other non black wires and connect them to the lightblue/black wire on your column I unpinned mine from the connector and used a spade connector  and taped it up so I can easily put it back .
 5. Ground the black wires . you can eaither ground them to an existing ground wire in the column (I did ) or you can just ground them to any chassis  ground
 6. Dance a jig because you are done :D
 
I did this to My Mark VII and I mounted the switches on the console behind the ashtray and it looked almost factory .
On my bird I mounted them next to the headlight switch in the trim panel .
 If you need more or better pictures let me know
Fox-less at the moment

Moving the cruise buttons.....

Reply #6 –
Thought I'd post these just because
Fox-less at the moment

Moving the cruise buttons.....

Reply #7 –
Somebody did this and had them mounted on the panel under the cluster , to the right side.  It looked very nice.  I dont remember the thread, sorry.
Mike

Moving the cruise buttons.....

Reply #8 –
Twas thunder chicken
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Moving the cruise buttons.....

Reply #9 –
Just another tip... When you take off your tilt column plastic trim ring it will expose the three wires located on the right side of the column which come from the brushes.

Moving the cruise buttons.....

Reply #10 –
Thanks a lot. As simple as you made that,expect more questions. The wires in the mildly blurry pic...is that the right side of the column (passenger side?)? My buttons will be on the dash panel somewhere around the gauge cluster probably.I'll look at it for an hour and decide.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Moving the cruise buttons.....

Reply #11 –
Oh,any pics you can or want to add,I'll take them.The more the better for me.I hate this stuff.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Moving the cruise buttons.....

Reply #12 –
Quote from: vinnietbird;329358
Oh,any pics you can or want to add,I'll take them.The more the better for me.I hate this stuff.


Have no fear Vinnie! It so much easier than you think! Once you get the lower column half off and the tilt trim ring removed it will make perfect sense. Just follow the wires from the brushes.... Look up from the tilt lever and you will see the plate that the brushes mount to.
 

Moving the cruise buttons.....

Reply #13 –
Quote from: vinnietbird;329357
Thanks a lot. As simple as you made that,expect more questions. The wires in the mildly blurry pic...is that the right side of the column (passenger side?)? My buttons will be on the dash panel somewhere around the gauge cluster probably.I'll look at it for an hour and decide.


Sorry for the blurriness, photography is not my strong suit :hick:

That is actually towards the left side of the column , and Angelo is right it is really really a simple thing to do . Don't be afraid to ask any questions though , that is why we all hang out here 

I used this type of tap to connect to the yellow/light green wire

Not my car but a much clearer pic of the wire tap
Fox-less at the moment