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Topic: 5.0 t-stat lower bolt (Read 927 times) previous topic - next topic

5.0 t-stat lower bolt

I know its been talking about on improving this, but what have you guys done to get the t stat bolt out initially? This is on a stock setup with the ac compressor. I've thrown everything I have at it and I can't seem to get it. I mean wrenches, sockets, everything, suggestions?

5.0 t-stat lower bolt

Reply #1
I used an end wrench.Other wise,you can always remove the intake.Maybe you need new intake gaskets anyway.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

5.0 t-stat lower bolt

Reply #2
Yeah, when I did some work on the 302 in the old '80, that bolt was a pain in my butt. 

There was no place to get any movement on an end wrench.

I *think* I might've cut down a 1/4-drive socket so it was pretty short, and was then able to get it in there.  I'd have to dig back and see if I made any notes on it.

Use an allen head bolt in its place, and you can then get it with a "wobble" end allen wrench.
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo - '85 Marquis LTS - '86 LTD Wagon

5.0 t-stat lower bolt

Reply #3
Found my post in my thread.

Quote
My first task of the day was the thermostat...and I'm going to rant here. Whatever IDIOT designed these things and put the lower bolt for the stat housing BEHIND the front cover/water pump needs to be kicked in the junk. I'd forgotten how much of a PITA those were to get to. Nothing worked. Either I could get a wrench in there, but no room to move it, or if there was room to move, it wasn't on the head. I'd noticed a previous owner had slotted that bolt (ie for a screwdriver) but that wasn't going to get it loose. So after some thinking what I wound up doing was chopping down a short 1/4-drive socket so I could get it in there and get it loose, and then I used the screwdriver to finish it up. I almost went digging for an allen head bolt but said screw it since I had the modded socket and I cleaned and anti-siezed the bolts it should be fine next time.
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo - '85 Marquis LTS - '86 LTD Wagon

5.0 t-stat lower bolt

Reply #4
I used a 1/4 " socket and a swivel, but if it's tight all the way you won't have room to get it out all the way.
Old Grey Cat to this.88 Cat, 5.0 HO, CW mounts, mass air, CI custom cam, afr165's, Tmoss worked cobra intake, BBK shorty's,off road h pipe, magnaflow ex. T-5,spec stage 2 clutch, 8.8 373 TC trac loc, che ajustables with bullits on the rear. 11" brakes up front. +

5.0 t-stat lower bolt

Reply #5
Thanks guys. I thought about cutting down a socket, but with a swivel I thought it would still hit on the top of the water pump. I used one of the "bendy pipe wrenches,  they area normal wrench but right before the opening they dip in. I got it out almost all the way, and now the wrench can't fit and its not finger tight... And now its dark.

Thanks for the help guys. I'm sure going to hack saw a slot into the bolt. Thats a very good idea! Thank you.

5.0 t-stat lower bolt

Reply #6
1/4 drive swivel socket worked great!  I have allen ones now and hardly use it any more
1986 T-bird
347 stroker motor
185 AFR Heads
TrickFlow cam 224/232-542/563
Victor Jr. intake CNC ported
Quickfuel Holley 800 cfm
Hooker 1-3/4 long tubes
Custom built AOD
B&M 3000 stall
8.8 w/4.30 gears
UPR K-member,A-Arms,and coil-overs
UPR upper/lower control arms
Strange shocks/struts
26x10x15 M/T slicks
11.48@119.27
(coming soon Tremec 3550)
The Finished Product
http://s174.photobucket.com/albums/w92/03grinnie/T-bird/

5.0 t-stat lower bolt

Reply #7
Quote from: 347Thunder;306128
1/4 drive swivel socket worked great!  I have allen ones now and hardly use it any more


Thats wierd, i couldn't get a 1/4 drive swivel between the thermastat housing and the lip of the waterpump.

5.0 t-stat lower bolt

Reply #8
It was a snap on socket they make them pretty small
1986 T-bird
347 stroker motor
185 AFR Heads
TrickFlow cam 224/232-542/563
Victor Jr. intake CNC ported
Quickfuel Holley 800 cfm
Hooker 1-3/4 long tubes
Custom built AOD
B&M 3000 stall
8.8 w/4.30 gears
UPR K-member,A-Arms,and coil-overs
UPR upper/lower control arms
Strange shocks/struts
26x10x15 M/T slicks
11.48@119.27
(coming soon Tremec 3550)
The Finished Product
http://s174.photobucket.com/albums/w92/03grinnie/T-bird/

5.0 t-stat lower bolt

Reply #9
I just changed the intake. It was easier :hick: (then again I was doing an intake swap).
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

5.0 t-stat lower bolt

Reply #10
Haha, thats funny.

 

5.0 t-stat lower bolt

Reply #11
Mine has a slot in it for a screwdriver. after taking the motor apart last week, I now see why it has a slot in it. I just had to loosen the bolt with a wrench, which still was a job and a half.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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