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Topic: 88 xr-7 It's got to be an electrical problem... (Read 1208 times) previous topic - next topic

88 xr-7 It's got to be an electrical problem...

I've had my xr-7 for about 6 years.  I haven't driven it that much in about 4 years because of a long list of things.  It always had a problem with overheating according to my gauge.  The whole cooling system has been replaced since I've owned the car, so that leaves it as an electrical problem so far as I can guess.

The car "overheats" and sometimes the check engine light comes on when I am driving at night and have to put the headlights on.  When I shut the lights the needle drops on the gauge and sometimes the check engine light will go off.  The car doesn't seem to be getting warm...

The only thing I've done to this car electrically has been 2 new batteries and one new autozone alternator about 5 years ago. 

The car has a rust problem so I've been considering that maybe it was a corrosion problem someplace.  This car frustrates me a little more each year, but this is the main thing I want to concern myself with right now.

Any ideas?

Thanks

88 xr-7 It's got to be an electrical problem...

Reply #1 –
I don't think there hasn't been a single 88 that hasn't had this problem.  I've got it and it drives me crazy with it going on/off or just plain staying on no matter what the driving conditions are.  I'm going to get a diagnostic code reader and check the codes to hopefully figure out what the issue is. 

Anyone have a suggestion for a good, reliable, yet inexpensive reader? :D
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

~In less enlightened times, the best way to impress women was to own a hot car. But women wised up and realized it was better to buy their own hot cars so they wouldn't have to ride around with jerks. ~
--Scott Adams.--

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88 xr-7 It's got to be an electrical problem...

Reply #2 –
read jcassity's diy thread, or do a search on the ranger station.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

88 xr-7 It's got to be an electrical problem...

Reply #3 –
I have heard that the plastic film cicuit board on the back of the displays can crack. It couuld give you a false reading. I'll bet you could get a spare for cheap and try plugging it in to see what happends.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

88 xr-7 It's got to be an electrical problem...

Reply #4 –
XR7? buttstuffogue gauges? My guess would be the IVR. More info here:
http://www.coolcats.net/tech/troubleshooting/gauges.html
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

88 xr-7 It's got to be an electrical problem...

Reply #5 –
Quote from: pleasure's Cougar;262055
I don't think there hasn't been a single 88 that hasn't had this problem.D


Based on what information?
just giving you a hard time:rollin:

Thats a very broad statement there but if thats the way you see it, i cant change your mind.

Code reader = paperclip and a rigged up light bulb or test light or better yet,  a 12v buzzer all for under 2 dollars.

for the both of you,, step 1 >then report back with findings please.

what is the............
DC voltage at the headlamps with them on
DC voltage on the alternator while running
DC voltage on the battery while running

AC voltage across the battery while running

after this, we can trace backwards towards the loss by following the charge circuit in the sticky evtm or in one of the diagrams in the "3g alternator upgrade" sticky or one of the diagrams you find in the diy link in my sig.

its gonna be easy:D
 

88 xr-7 It's got to be an electrical problem...

Reply #6 –
Wow... I feel like an idiot... I didn't see any responses to this thread and gave up on it. 

I'm glad I came back to this and was glad to see all the info here.  The write up about gauges makes me feel a little better about the car.  The line that got me the most was: "Whenever you start to deal with electricity on a Ford vehicle, you're in for a real treat..."

I replaced the cap around the time of the posting, but I have yet to drive the car at night since then.  Since a bad cap was listed as a potential problem I'll give it a try.  I hope it isn't too deep of a problem, but I wouldn't doubt it.

Thanks for the help