forced induction and speed density

Topic: forced induction and speed density (Read 3788 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: forced induction and speed density

Reply #15 – March 22, 2005, 01:50:18 AM

the thing is, you can run it with speed density, and use a fuel management unit, but the computer has no control over the fuel mixture under boost seeing as it doesnt realize theres boost

with a MAF setup, theres much more computer control over the injectors, since the MAF reads the air, and tells the computer to compensate for boost

Re: forced induction and speed density

Reply #16 – March 22, 2005, 03:25:35 AM

Thanks TBird, I figured I would do the MAF conversion, better performance options down the road too. Still would be interesting to try it on a speed density system.

Didn't GM use speed density for a long time (or even still using it??) and have good luck with performance? Wonder why Ford switched out so soon rather than trying to dial in the MAP. It made more power stock than the MAF.. Although, why did/ does Ford do alot of the things they have???? Been a long time Ford fan, and always will be, but they still cease to amaze me with the changes.... Keeps you on yourr toes though, right....

Re: forced induction and speed density

Reply #17 – March 22, 2005, 07:47:41 AM

Tbird is correct. With an FMU and one way check valve in the vaccum line to the MAP sensor you can run that Powerdyne with a Speed Density setup. Powerdyne calls the check valve and related hardware a "Speed Density Calibration Kit". The part # is H80265-003. Vortech makes their own version which they call a "MAP sensor check valve assembly", part # 4fd113-010. A word of advice....If you decide upon the 6 PSI kit as I have be forewarned it does not come with a bypass valve. I would highly recommend ordering it! In my searching the internet it seems the Problems with these kits stem from 2 things:
1) Overspinning the internal bearings by using an interbuttstuff pulley that is too small
(putting one in yourself to achieve say 13 PSI from a 9 PSI kit without upgrading the bearings)
2) Not using a bypass valve

A 6PSI or 9PSI kit will last a lot longer with the bypass valve. This ensures the backside of the impeller does not get boost kicked back into it thus shredding the internal belt. 9PSI kits have the bypass valve standard 6 PSI do not. Order it if you go with the 6.

Re: forced induction and speed density

Reply #18 – March 22, 2005, 11:07:39 AM

Thank you Paul, you are wise beyond your years. I will keep the check valve in mind when I order and sell the 6 psi kits. I asked Powerdyne about the speed density calibration kit, and my sales guy said it won't work, you need MAF.... why sell it then? Looks liike I found the right message board, I think I will make it my second home....
I was browsing through corral.net last night, and noticed the same thing Paul mentioned, there are alot of guys trying to run more boost out of the powerdyne stuff without upgradeing, and frying the bearings and shredding belts. So what I have noticed is the BD11 Powerdyne is an awesome street duty, mild track application that proves to be fun, but don't over spin it. You want to go nuts, go for a procharger, but deal with oil leaks...

You can also put the Powerdyne XB series (gear driven) in the same brackets as the BD series, if I'm not mistaken. Paul, you probably know that better than I do, am I wrong, or right? Thanks again!!! You guys are great!!!!!!

Re: forced induction and speed density

Reply #19 – March 22, 2005, 02:16:08 PM

Procharger, hands down in my opinion is the best blower. I've had a paxton
(Novi 1000) and two models of vortech ( S-trim & T-trim ) before I ended up with my D1-R and the unit crushes the other two.

:evilgrin: :evilgrin: :evilgrin:

Re: forced induction and speed density

Reply #20 – March 22, 2005, 03:16:22 PM

BlownBirds, have you had a problem with the seals leaking oil? I heard that is a BIG problem with those....

Re: forced induction and speed density

Reply #21 – March 23, 2005, 08:37:02 AM

My head unit has about 5,000 miles on it and hasn't leaked a drop. Now I have only had experience with the D- models (and 1 F-1R model in friends stang) but the outcome has all been the same. These blowers ( the big model D & F ) are not for the regular driver, so if the oil seal starts to leak its probably time for new bearings
(rebuilds run about $300 for bearings and seals). ( They won't sell you the parts)

What I mean for instance about not for the regular driver is my unit is rated for 30lbs of boost!

:evilgrin: :evilgrin: :evilgrin: