idling problem with the plunger? Reply #15 – May 11, 2008, 12:00:31 AM stop listening to dumb asses who dont own these cars and start listening to our dumb asses,,, ok?In retrospect, your first mistake was to make a major purchase without verification that the part you replaced was defective. Anyone can shotgun a few parts and just toss em in. Few want to learn how to diagnose the problem, and even fewer know how. Its too easy to do so since its so easy , might as well just join the crowd and keep it a secret. Its not like we dont do this stuff everyday you know. was your old tps marked with a ford part number?What was the voltage on the green wire to the black wire with the KOEO? (Key On Engine OFF)Anyway, no it wont idle too low, it will just idle. If someone has messed with an idle set screw then yes, perhaps.anyway,,you need to learn how to pull the codes.check out my DIY link below and follow the instructions. Also, the seach feature works here so just type "pulling codes" and see whats in here.I suggest http://www.therangerstation.comthen click on tech librarynext click on the eeciv codes section and there will be a diagram on how to install your jumper.otherwise,, just do this.run engine until it is warm and the temp guage has moved to normal driving temp.shut off car.locate your six pin and single pin test connector near the driver strut tower.install a paperclip from the single pin test connector to pin 2 of the six pin connector.(pin 1 and 2 along the top row)(pins 3-6 along the bottom row)turn your key on only and watch the check engine light. it will strob in pulses with two digit codes.example:blink blink,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,blink blink blink blink = code 24you can also add in a buzzer so you can hear your codes per below but for now , you should only use a paperclip so you can get use to the process. Quote Selected
Ah, OK. Reply #16 – May 11, 2008, 12:28:15 PM First of all I was listening to the, what you call "dumb asses" on this site.Second, I tested with a voltmeter using the procedure noted above, and the voltage was not increasing/decreasing while pressing/depressing the throttle. There were spots where there was no change in voltage, while the throttle position was changing.Third, I don't think I need to be talked down to, just because I'm new at this. I maybe be new at this, but I'm not an idiot. So take your "its not like we don't do this everyday you know" attitude and shove it. Quote Selected
And.. Reply #17 – May 11, 2008, 12:33:01 PM The check engine light never comes on. So I don't think the computer memory will have any info. Quote Selected
idling problem with the plunger? Reply #18 – May 11, 2008, 12:59:45 PM Quote from: 84monte;218374 I don't think I need to be talked down to, just because I'm new at this. I maybe be new at this, but I'm not an idiot. So take your "its not like we don't do this everyday you know" attitude and shove it.IF you'd posted that you had checked the voltage then much of Scott's reply would have not been necessary... 90% time we give out info on how to diagnose the problem and get replies, "well I repl xxx, yyy, zzz, and it still does it, what now"???And we say check codes, and get "uuhhh, no how you do that??? OR "no I don't have a volt meter"...A properly set TPS should sweep smoothly from approx .9v at closed throttle, to around 4.5v at full opening...Quote from: 84monte;218375The check engine light never comes on. So I don't think the computer memory will have any info.Probably 3/4 of the '88s do not have a active check engine lamp, it was disabled(no bulb) a few months into production... I do believe the Canadian deliveries are an exception...OOPS forgot yours is a '87, still would be a good idea to check... Quote Selected
We'll Reply #19 – May 11, 2008, 03:47:38 PM Doesnt he know how to read the previous posts. Just because I didn't post what the readings were, doesn't mean I should be insulted. Quote Selected
idling problem with the plunger? Reply #20 – May 11, 2008, 05:02:52 PM Quote from: 84monte;216234Remember, I'm a newbie with this car. Can I check it with a voltage meter, and if so how.I'm really thinking it might be easier to replace it with a working ECM, but find one is like pulling teeth. If anyone has anyone suggestions where I can find a replacement, please post it.Quote from: 84monte;218393Doesnt he know how to read the previous posts. Just because I didn't post what the readings were, doesn't mean I should be insulted.From your previous posts, I'd say Scott's reply was more than justified... Again YOU didn't give any info regarding any troubleshooting performed, only you purchased a TPS... Quote Selected
idling problem with the plunger? Reply #21 – May 12, 2008, 12:19:26 AM throw the tps at it just for fun. Then read codes. There is a way to do it without a check engine light. Also, you will get codes even if everything is working fine. So I would check to see what codes you can pull. Do a couple of searches, or maybe ask... Quote Selected
idling problem with the plunger? Reply #22 – May 12, 2008, 09:35:37 AM I was rude,, sorry for that.Quote from: 84monte;218374Second, I tested with a voltmeter using the procedure noted above, and the voltage was not increasing/decreasing while pressing/depressing the throttle. There were spots where there was no change in voltage, while the throttle position was changing.The above sounds like you disconnected the tps. There is no way your car would run or start if you got the above readings and you tested using the steps posted. you can test the tps two ways.Resistance=key off engine off set meter to ohmsdisconnect the tps from engine harnessprob the black to green wiremove throttle linkage increasing the resistance ohm meter should increase smoothly****its best to use an buttstuffog meter and watch the needle sweep***slowly increase to max and decrease to min and note any needle or reading fluxuations.replace if you see any signs were the needle or reading suddenly drops to zero.Rrepeat above test reading from the orange to green. VOLTAGEkey off engine offset meter to Vdcleave tps connected to engine harnessprobe the green wire with a stick pinprobe the black wire with a stick pinconnect black meter lead to black wire stick pinconnect red meter lead to green wire stick pinturn key ontake voltage reading (should be less than one volt.open throttle slowly****its best to use an buttstuffog meter and watch the needle sweep***slowly increase to max and decrease to min and not any needle or reading fluxuations.replace if you see any signs were the needle or reading suddenly drops to zero.Rrepeat above test reading from the orange to green.If you cant get your tps voltage to read less than a volt ,, use a chainsaw file (round) to file the mouting holes for the tps in such a way that will allow you to rotate the tps CCW while mounted and the tps screws snug and the meter hooked up. Mine is set at .7vdc but less than a volt is all you need. Quote Selected
idling problem with the plunger? Reply #23 – May 12, 2008, 09:51:35 AM If you have a check engine light (i dont own a TC) socket , stuff a bulb in there.To pull codes not using a check engine light, you must have a very warm engine otherwise you are going to throw out coolant sensor codes and various other things.Key off engine offinstall the paper clip as shown find you an old bulb with a socket and extend the wires so that one reaches the battery positive terminal.Connect one side of your bulb to the battery +Connect the other side of your bulb to the pin shown.****DO NOT LET THE BULB LEAD TOUCH THE JUMPERKey On engine off**have your paper and pen in hand now prior to turning on your key because sometimes this stuff will happen fast.the engine will spit out some fast codes,, ignore themThe codes will come to you like i typed up before.its best to be standing comfortable with your paper and pen in hand so that you can see the flashes out the side of your eye while jotting down the codes.....((this is why i use a buzzer, you can hear the tones and not have to look back and forth worried if you missed a flash or not. Missing one flash means a huge difference))During the time you are pulling your codes,, it will appear as though it is done dumping them out to you.You will suddenly see a single lone flash. This one flash is a separator flash meaning,,, It will separate your "RIGHT NOW" codes from "LONG TERM MEMORY" codes.Your initial codes are codes happening now so jot those down.your long term codes are things the eec has collected and documented over the course of 40 warm up cycles.Your right now codes can be erased by unhooking the jumper wire***WHILE*** the codes are being displayed. I personally have not seen this to be true but it might work on your car.Your long term or continuous memory codes will erease themselves after 40 warm up cycles. As for this being true, usually you will see a change in your long term codes over time so i suppose its true. Quote Selected
idling problem with the plunger? Reply #24 – May 12, 2008, 10:20:38 AM on a side note,, the rpm your talking about sounds a little too much to be a tps although i could be wrong.On your engine intake, there will a sensor called the "air charge temp sensor" It should be a two wire connector on the intake somewhere.IT changes in resistance via a tear drop thermal couple mounted on the end of it. This tear drop thingy hangs down in the intake and if it becomes covered with soot or a film of oil ect,, then the soot or oil acts as an insulator and it can not change in value.remove this sensor and clean it off with a solvent or perhaps carb cleaner. Install it back and see if that drops your idle down.the car is looking for all of these variable resistors readings and working out a math formula longer than my leg to determine your idle.In addition, a slight vac leak will contribute to a high idle as well. there are many tiny hard plastic lines that run here and there and if one is cracked , your not going to get the idle down till its found.this is not hard to do if you take each vac line one color at a time.TANBlackRedGreenwhiteto find a vac leak,, shoot bursts of carb cleaner along the areas of vac connections. When your engine rpm stumbles or jumps , you just narrowed down the leak.Once you have found your leak,, it would not be a bad idea to locate your vac tree along the firewall driver side.with the engine running, unplug the rubber nipple cap on the end. the car will stumble or idle high. Spray wd40 in there and let the vac system suck up the wd. Also, move or actuate some heater / AC controls inside. The wd40 will add some lubrication to the various moving parts / diaphrams throughout your HVAC system and various solenoids. Sometimes, large truck mech's do this to lube up various air actuated solenoids ect in thier air systems. Quote Selected
Thanks Reply #25 – May 13, 2008, 12:12:10 AM JCassity, no worries.The TPS was only $40. So if I did read it wrong, I've got a new TPS, and the same problem...no harm done. The check engine light does work, but it doesn't come on often. I think I've seen it only when I turn the ignition on.So, I'm going to replace the TPS, and if it doesn't work, then I'll follow your advice on getting the codes.Thanks everybody. These forums are GREAT! Quote Selected
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