Skip to main content ↑ ↓
Topic: Would someone pay decent $$ or do I chop them up? (Read 1118 times) previous topic - next topic

Would someone pay decent $$ or do I chop them up?

Ok, so the deal is, I am going to hack some thunderbird door panels to get the top plate.  I will then replace all the fiberboard with abs plastic and start building my sn95/fox hybrid panels.  The JY is 45 minutes away; gas $ plus an overly expensive panel means I will most likely hack these panels...  unless you all think I can get enough $$ for these.  Great appearance, newly wrapped insert...  only problem is about 1/3-1/2 of the holes that hold the panel retainers are torn and would need repair.  What do you all think?  What could I get for these?  heres one:
1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
'89 5.0 w/ ported intakes, Mallory Adjustable FPR, BBK shorties and H with 2.5" Flows, 130 amp 3G, 89 Mustang comp/wiring, Aluminum radiator w/ elec fan, T5 trans, King Cobra clutch, 3.55 gears, 13" Cobra brakes (front), Wilwood prop valve, Mustang A-arms, Front Coil-overs, MM CC plates, Silver 17x9 R's, 03 Cobra IRS, Aluminum DS, 2002 Mustang dash/console etc..., custom leather seats

Would someone pay decent $$ or do I chop them up?

Reply #1 –
Maybe another suggestion (It doesent matter to me if you cut up the panels). In my opinion, the base T-Bird door panels ar made better for what it sounds like you are trying to do. The panel is solid molded plastic, and the line for the door pull is lower. I was never as happy as when I got rid of the TC panels with all the loose parts and installed these in my TC. Anyway, something to look at if you are looking for base parts to work with to make custom panels, and the design up front might owrk better with a different dash??



Bob Myers

Would someone pay decent $$ or do I chop them up?

Reply #2 –
I don't know how much you'll get for panels that won't clip on a door without repairing.
That are you thinking of doing to create new ones?
I also think the plastic bird/cougar panels are made better.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
Join us on Facebook
http://www.facebook.com/home.php?sk=group_137541156293768&ap=1

Would someone pay decent $$ or do I chop them up?

Reply #3 –
well, these are going to be very custom and I think starting with a flat sheet of plastic (as opposed to the molded plastic panel) will make the job a lot easier.  I am using SN95 handles, switches, etc...  thanks for the suggestions though!  I figured I'd get this answer...
1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
'89 5.0 w/ ported intakes, Mallory Adjustable FPR, BBK shorties and H with 2.5" Flows, 130 amp 3G, 89 Mustang comp/wiring, Aluminum radiator w/ elec fan, T5 trans, King Cobra clutch, 3.55 gears, 13" Cobra brakes (front), Wilwood prop valve, Mustang A-arms, Front Coil-overs, MM CC plates, Silver 17x9 R's, 03 Cobra IRS, Aluminum DS, 2002 Mustang dash/console etc..., custom leather seats

Would someone pay decent $$ or do I chop them up?

Reply #4 –
lol
yea, If your making something from scratch, then a flat piece is your best choice to start with.
will the door pulls be located in the original location for something to screw into? or will you change that.
ever think of using Mark panels?
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
Join us on Facebook
http://www.facebook.com/home.php?sk=group_137541156293768&ap=1
 

Would someone pay decent $$ or do I chop them up?

Reply #5 –
Quote from: martin0660;213502
Maybe another suggestion (It doesent matter to me if you cut up the panels). In my opinion, the base T-Bird door panels ar made better for what it sounds like you are trying to do. The panel is solid molded plastic, and the line for the door pull is lower. I was never as happy as when I got rid of the TC panels with all the loose parts and installed these in my TC. Anyway, something to look at if you are looking for base parts to work with to make custom panels, and the design up front might owrk better with a different dash??



Bob Myers


Yeah I felt the same way when I switched to these. I was very excited when I found them in the u-pull-it lot like 8 yrs ago
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]